Sigh. New with so many questions

[dougbenmne]

I measured our above ground pool side to side today and it was 24 ft and 4 inches. It is about 4 ft deep.

My pump is this:
https://picasaweb.google.com/110306...authkey=Gv1sRgCP7endXyvuGz8gE&feat=directlink
Hayward, Swim Pro SW196T

My HTH 6 way test dip stick results of about an hour ago are
Hardness 200
FC 10
Bromine 20
pH 7.5
Total Alkalinity 240
CYA 100-150

We have a Kontiki 2 vacuum.

I am not certain how old the pool is, it came with the house when we bought it last October.


1. There is a lot of sand on the bottom of the pool. What is the best way to get it out?

2. The water is very clear until we stir up the sand left on the bottom. Before we get in or turn on the filter you can see very clearly to the bottom. Then it becomes a cloudy blue green. It was a dark green last week after nearly 2 weeks of rain. What do we do?
FYI- there are no large particulates left in the pool. When I followed the vacuum around earlier I was only able to capture small seed size particulates but a lot smaller than I could catch seems to be floating around. Some are clearish, some are grey fluffy things, some just look like small black seeds or bugs. Pictures from about an hour ago can be found here:
https://picasaweb.google.com/110306...authkey=Gv1sRgCOiKxY3x_9iJywE&feat=directlink

3. I figured out how to make the vacuum work today and it has been running for a good hour. How long can they or should they run?

4. What is the small glass thingy on the side of the filter and what do I need to know about it?

5. How do I determine what normal running pressure is? What is too much?

Thanks so very much for your help! I have been reading around the site and am learning so much but am stuck with these questions right now.

 

[JohnT]

5. Normal running pressure is pool specific. Larger pumps, smaller filters and long pipe runs all result in higher numbers.

4. The glass on the filter is to see if the backwash or rinse water is clear. It is called a sight glass.

3. It can run as long as you need it to. If you have debris blowing in the pool, you may need to remove the cleaner to let the skimmer clear the surface some.

2. Your water look svery much like a pool clearing from algae. You should maintain shock level, which is quite high with your CYA level.

1. The cleaner can get the sand, but it may be a sign of filter problems unless your area is prone to blowing sand.

 

[dougbenmne]

Thanks.

5. Normal running pressure is pool specific. Larger pumps, smaller filters and long pipe runs all result in higher numbers.

4. The glass on the filter is to see if the backwash or rinse water is clear. It is called a sight glass. So does it mean everything is ok as long as it is clear? Or do I just ignore it unless I am backwashing or rinsing?

3. It can run as long as you need it to. If you have debris blowing in the pool, you may need to remove the cleaner to let the skimmer clear the surface some.

2. Your water look svery much like a pool clearing from algae. You should maintain shock level, which is quite high with your CYA levelSo what is shock level? How do I determine that and do that? The not so informed family I have is telling me to just dump lots and lots of those bags of pool shock we can buy at WalMart in the pool.
1. The cleaner can get the sand, but it may be a sign of filter problems unless your area is prone to blowing sand.

The sand happened as my son was trying to put the sand bags back onto the steps to hold them down. He ripped one open on accident and lots of sand poured out.

 

[Richard320]

I'd wonder about your readings. Dipsticks/test strips are not the most accurate, to put it mildly.

The absolute fastest way to clearing your pool and keeping it sparkling clear - so clear you'll be the envy of all who see it - is to get your own, proper test kit. You've probably seen the article in Pool School. Read it, or just jump right to the conclusion, head over to http://tftestkits.net and order up a TF100. I recommend adding the XL option and the speedstir. I make no money off this, but it's what I use, it's pretty much the standard here, and you can thank me for the tip next month after all the compliments you get after hosting a 4th of July party.

 

[JohnT]

Thanks.

5. Normal running pressure is pool specific. Larger pumps, smaller filters and long pipe runs all result in higher numbers.

4. The glass on the filter is to see if the backwash or rinse water is clear. It is called a sight glass. So does it mean everything is ok as long as it is clear? Or do I just ignore it unless I am backwashing or rinsing?

3. It can run as long as you need it to. If you have debris blowing in the pool, you may need to remove the cleaner to let the skimmer clear the surface some.

2. Your water look svery much like a pool clearing from algae. You should maintain shock level, which is quite high with your CYA levelSo what is shock level? How do I determine that and do that? The not so informed family I have is telling me to just dump lots and lots of those bags of pool shock we can buy at WalMart in the pool.
1. The cleaner can get the sand, but it may be a sign of filter problems unless your area is prone to blowing sand.

The sand happened as my son was trying to put the sand bags back onto the steps to hold them down. He ripped one open on accident and lots of sand poured out.

You can find the shock level in theChlorine CYA Chart Yours is up in the "Holy Cow!" range.

With your high CYA level, the very last thing you want to do is use powdered pool shock. They add either CYA or calcium.

The sight glass is only useful during backwashing or rinsing.

 

[dougbenmne]

Thanks.

5. Normal running pressure is pool specific. Larger pumps, smaller filters and long pipe runs all result in higher numbers.

4. The glass on the filter is to see if the backwash or rinse water is clear. It is called a sight glass. So does it mean everything is ok as long as it is clear? Or do I just ignore it unless I am backwashing or rinsing?

3. It can run as long as you need it to. If you have debris blowing in the pool, you may need to remove the cleaner to let the skimmer clear the surface some.

2. Your water look svery much like a pool clearing from algae. You should maintain shock level, which is quite high with your CYA levelSo what is shock level? How do I determine that and do that? The not so informed family I have is telling me to just dump lots and lots of those bags of pool shock we can buy at WalMart in the pool.
1. The cleaner can get the sand, but it may be a sign of filter problems unless your area is prone to blowing sand.

The sand happened as my son was trying to put the sand bags back onto the steps to hold them down. He ripped one open on accident and lots of sand poured out.

You can find the shock level in theChlorine CYA Chart Yours is up in the "Holy Cow!" range.

With your high CYA level, the very last thing you want to do is use powdered pool shock. They add either CYA or calcium.

The sight glass is only useful during backwashing or rinsing.

Ok, so is Holy COw the last line that has CYA as 100 and shock as 39?

Now that I have these numbers, what next? I am reading the pool school but am really lost and confused. I bought 3 large bottles of bleach yesterday so I have it on hand to begin with. I am ordering the test kit but it will take a few days to arrive. I also have lots of Super washing powder, borax, and baking soda on hand as well.

 

[JasonLion]

I recommend replacing water until your can get CYA down below 100, preferably down to something like 60.

 

[dougbenmne]

Is the CYA so high because I was using the packaged shock before? I lost count at how many packages have been dumped in there over the last few weeks - I was following the directions of someone I *thought* knew what they were doing.

To drain some out, do it like I did in the fall when we winterized it and set it to backwash for a long time?

I really don't want to mess anything else up...

 

[Richard320]

Is the CYA so high because I was using the packaged shock before? I lost count at how many packages have been dumped in there over the last few weeks - I was following the directions of someone I *thought* knew what they were doing.

To drain some out, do it like I did in the fall when we winterized it and set it to backwash for a long time?

I really don't want to mess anything else up...

Let me repeat what I posted. I suspect it got lost because it doesn't have a fix. "I'd wonder about your readings. Dipsticks/test strips are not the most accurate, to put it mildly." Are you using a drop-based test kit, or this?
[center:3kjzb9oy]

[/center:3kjzb9oy]If you're using strips, your CYA could be 50, 60, 100, 300, who knows? You can't just start dumping chemicals in, and you will end up wasting water and money draining the pool 50% and refilling it without knowing are you draining out too much or not enough! What if it's 200 right now? Drain 50% and refill, and you're still too high. What if it's only 75?

If you really don't want to mess anything else up, stop working blind. Get a proper test kit.

 

[PachinkoPlayer]

If you back wash for a long time, you will definitly have a clean filter. lol or if you have a "drain" option on your multiport, you can do that as well.

 

[dougbenmne]

I have the kit you just pictured. I have the TF100XL ordered but it won't be here for a few days.

 

[dougbenmne]

If you back wash for a long time, you will definitly have a clean filter. lol or if you have a "drain" option on your multiport, you can do that as well.

I don't have a drain option on the port, or at least not that I remember right now.. I have been backwashing regularly the last few days and have had to add more water at times to keep levels up as I have emptied the green andf brown water out.

 

[dougbenmne]

Is the CYA so high because I was using the packaged shock before? I lost count at how many packages have been dumped in there over the last few weeks - I was following the directions of someone I *thought* knew what they were doing.

To drain some out, do it like I did in the fall when we winterized it and set it to backwash for a long time?

I really don't want to mess anything else up...

Let me repeat what I posted. I suspect it got lost because it doesn't have a fix. "I'd wonder about your readings. Dipsticks/test strips are not the most accurate, to put it mildly." Are you using a drop-based test kit, or this?
[center:332rmse9]

[/center:332rmse9]If you're using strips, your CYA could be 50, 60, 100, 300, who knows? You can't just start dumping chemicals in, and you will end up wasting water and money draining the pool 50% and refilling it without knowing are you draining out too much or not enough! What if it's 200 right now? Drain 50% and refill, and you're still too high. What if it's only 75?

If you really don't want to mess anything else up, stop working blind. Get a proper test kit.

So while I am waiting on this test kit, do I do anything? Pray the pool doesn't get worse? Keep running the filter?

 

[JasonLion]

Yes, keep the pump running and do the best you can with what you have. Vacuum up as much as you can from the bottom, maintain the FC and PH levels, and so on.

 

[dougbenmne]

Finally have those numbers for you! test kit has arrived

Cl 1
Br 2

FC 4
CC 0
TC 4
pH 7.5
TA 180
CH 140
CYA 80

So, now tell me what to do please. Remember, I am new to pool ownership this year and this one came with the house.

Thanks!

 

[JasonLion]

How does the water look now? Have you been able to vacuum up everything on the bottom?

Your TA is a little high. I suggest lowering PH to 7.2 every time it gets to 7.8 until TA comes down below 100.

With CYA at 80 and no SWG, normal day to day FC levels are 6 to 10 and never below 6. So you need to raise the FC level a little.

 

[dougbenmne]

How does the water look now? Have you been able to vacuum up everything on the bottom?

Your TA is a little high. I suggest lowering PH to 7.2 every time it gets to 7.8 until TA comes down below 100.

With CYA at 80 and no SWG, normal day to day FC levels are 6 to 10 and never below 6. So you need to raise the FC level a little.

The water is actually pretty clear. You can easily see all the way to the bottom. I vacuumed lots over the past few days and ran the pump, backwashing and all that lots as well. I also added a skimmer sock that I have been cleaning out every couple of hours. It seems that the only thing left on the bottom of the pool is the remains of that bag of sand my son broke. No large particles or leaves or anything like that. I hope I can pull the rest of it up with the vacuum tomorrow.

 

[dougbenmne]

Ok, if I am using the pool calculator correctly I need to do the following:
1. Increase FC to 8 by adding 112 oz 6% bleach
2. decrease pH by adding muriatic acid

Do I need to address the other numbers as well or will they self correct as I work on this?

 

[JasonLion]

1) Yes, 112 oz sounds just right.
2) There is no need to lower the PH just yet. You can if you want to, but I would wait until it goes up to around 7.8.

All of your other numbers are good for right now.

 

[dougbenmne]

1) Yes, 112 oz sounds just right.
2) There is no need to lower the PH just yet. You can if you want to, but I would wait until it goes up to around 7.8.

All of your other numbers are good for right now.

Thank you.

I have the bleach on hand now. Is there a proper way to add it? Should I add it now or in the morning? Run the pump or not?