This is my 3rd year owning and operating an 18ft above ground pool. This season after taking cover off no algae, but alot of dirt and debris, mulch etc. Vacuumed, back washed, vacuumed, back washed over and over. Bought an open kit added shock, algaecide and chlorine in that order. Mother told me I was supposed to balance water first then shock. Anyway, the water became very cloudy, so added 2oz of clarifier after 36 hours still cloudy, so added another 2 oz. still cloudy, will Pool Perfect work better, and should I keep adding this type of chemical or is there something else :?:
Cloudy pool water
- Thread starter mkcmone
- Start date
Welcome to TFP!
Can you post a set of test results to include FC, CC, pH, CH, CYA, and TA? This will help us narrow down what is going on.
Can you post a set of test results to include FC, CC, pH, CH, CYA, and TA? This will help us narrow down what is going on.
In addition to the chemistry numbers...please tell us a little bit about your pool (size, material, features, pump, filter). In no time...you, too will have a trouble free pool.
FC 0 (not registering chlorine no matter how much I put in, which I read may be from organic materials like all the debris that was in pool when took cover off? This is why I added clarifier)
PH btwn 7.8-8.4
TA btwn 40-80
TH 200
CYA 30-50
I have an 18ft above ground round pool with Hayward sand filter
PH btwn 7.8-8.4
TA btwn 40-80
TH 200
CYA 30-50
I have an 18ft above ground round pool with Hayward sand filter
If you have very high FC they can bleach out and read as zero. I'd want a second opinion before continuing to add chlorine.
I do think the chlorine is actually too high. Because it wasn't registering, I kept adding chlorine, then finally stopped. Can smell it on body, also kids complaining about eyes burning and skin itchy. Even dry throat and cough. Can this be harmful?
Water still cloudy. Went out today and bought Pool First Aid by Natural Chemistry and a Poolmaster indicator solutions test kit with OTO and Phenol red.
Water still cloudy. Went out today and bought Pool First Aid by Natural Chemistry and a Poolmaster indicator solutions test kit with OTO and Phenol red.
I'd get your pH down to anywhere below 7.8 and not let anyone swim until you get a trustworthy FC reading.
solarboy said:
Dittomkcmone said:
You don't need it. You need reliable test results and probably some POP. If your PH is over 7.8 that could be part of the problem.
Ok days later from cloudy pool posts (thank you all for your help) and water is looking better, but when I am testing water with dip test here are my numbers:
FC = still not registering for dip test 0
PH = slow to register at first can barely see the color, but then looks pink I guess 7.5
TA = 80
TH = 200
CYA = 0
Now when I do the OTO/PHENOL liquid test
FC is good pretty yellow
PH also looks good pinkish/purple
I have chlorinated, stabilized, algaecided, ph'ed, shocked you name it! What am I doing wrong?? Never had this much trouble balancing the water. Noticed that when I am hand skimming getting up clumps of baby looking bees at the bottom of pool could this be my problem??
FC = still not registering for dip test 0
PH = slow to register at first can barely see the color, but then looks pink I guess 7.5
TA = 80
TH = 200
CYA = 0
Now when I do the OTO/PHENOL liquid test
FC is good pretty yellow
PH also looks good pinkish/purple
I have chlorinated, stabilized, algaecided, ph'ed, shocked you name it! What am I doing wrong?? Never had this much trouble balancing the water. Noticed that when I am hand skimming getting up clumps of baby looking bees at the bottom of pool could this be my problem??
The very best thing you could do would be to get a better test kit. Test strips are just not that reliable, especially for CYA readings, which are very important to know. I recommend the TF100 from TFTestKits.net. They Taylor K-2006 is also good.
It seems unlikely that CYA could be 0 now when it was 30-50 a week ago, though there is some chance the CYA turned into ammonia. It would be really nice to be more confident of what CYA really was because the treatment for CYA at zero and the one for CYA at 30-50 are fairly different.
It seems unlikely that CYA could be 0 now when it was 30-50 a week ago, though there is some chance the CYA turned into ammonia. It would be really nice to be more confident of what CYA really was because the treatment for CYA at zero and the one for CYA at 30-50 are fairly different.
You're biggest problem is putting any faith in the strip reading. If the OTO turns yellow you have chlorine. Since it measures total and not free we don't know if most or all of it is CC's but there is some in there.
Bite the bullet and get yourself a good test kit.
Bite the bullet and get yourself a good test kit.