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Thread: Second test numbers after adding chemicals

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    Second test numbers after adding chemicals

    pH = 7.1 (added 1 box of borax)
    CYA = 0 (Test still shows zero 24 hours after adding 8 lbs of stabilizer, I have not added anymore)
    CH = 170 (Just added 20 lbs more of calcium chloride)
    TA = 70 (left alone)
    TC = 14.5 (added three 128 oz. bottles of 6% bleach)
    FC = 13.5
    CC = 1

    I took my pool cover off last week to a black pond. I was able to add chemicals last night after a week long search for a drain plug for my sand filter that somehow got lost over the winter. I initially put enough bleach to raise FC to approximately 16ppm. The next morning the pool water is no longer black and looks alot cleaner but really murky. I suspect the calcium chloride will do this. I was wondering if I need to keep my shock levels up until the pool clears or do I need to let the filter do the job. I have back-washed twice today, but don't want to do it to much because I heard I could lose all my CYA I put in the pool. I also want to add the borates to the pool like last year because it is very sparkly as advertised on this site. Can I do that now or do I need to wait until water is clearer and should I go ahead and use flock to get so some of the particles out of the pool? Sorry for the numerous questions. I have learned a lot from last year from you guys, but am still a novice. I also used the test kit I purchased from this site to get my numbers above. Thanks in advance to all the make any inputs.
    Mountain View, Arkansas, 23,000 gallon in-ground concrete pool with a 24-in Hayward Pro-Series Sand Filter with side-mount. Chlorinator is attached but only use occasionally and a 1 hp pump.

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    Re: Second test numbers after adding chemicals

    Go ahead and leave the calcium alone until your pool is finished shocking and the water is clear. CH is not a pressing issue and can be dealt with later.

    Since adding the 8 lbs. of CYA, have you by chance, backwashed the filter? I am wondering if your CYA went down the drain. It's a good idea to not backwash for a couple of days after adding CYA.

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    Re: Second test numbers after adding chemicals

    I did backwash once for about 1 minute. I then rinsed for 25 seconds then went back to normal filtering. I don't have a pressure gauge to go by and look in my skimmer closest to the pump and when I see that the water flow has slowed I usually backwash then. Do I need to wait a few days and test again to make sure I dont over do the CYA level?
    Mountain View, Arkansas, 23,000 gallon in-ground concrete pool with a 24-in Hayward Pro-Series Sand Filter with side-mount. Chlorinator is attached but only use occasionally and a 1 hp pump.

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    Re: Second test numbers after adding chemicals

    Yes, go ahead and give it a few more days (we typically say to wait a week after adding CYA) before testing again. It is much easier to be low and add CYA than it is to be high and remove CYA.

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    Re: Second test numbers after adding chemicals

    Ok. Here are my test results from this morning.

    pH = 7.3
    cH = 290
    tA = 70
    CYA = 0 (Did not test from yesterday, backwashed about 2 minutes total yesterday) But had added about 8 lbs of stabilizer the night before. Not sure how to proceed with having to backwash to clear pool.

    FC = 18
    CC = 1.5
    TC = 19.5
    I added three 128 oz bottles of 6% bleach last night. FC is higher from yesterday, but had a rise in CC. Water seems to have cleared some but still cloudy by far.

    Any suggestions to how I need to proceed? I believe my shock level should be 12 based on CYA chart. Just not sure why the CC have risen when keeping at shock level.

    Thanks for any input.

    Al.
    Mountain View, Arkansas, 23,000 gallon in-ground concrete pool with a 24-in Hayward Pro-Series Sand Filter with side-mount. Chlorinator is attached but only use occasionally and a 1 hp pump.

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    Re: Second test numbers after adding chemicals

    Assume that CYA is 30 for now. So you are well above shock level (not dangerously so).

    The next step is to maintain FC at shock level and keep an eye on the filter and backwash it as needed.

    CC going up is fairly common when you are killing a lot of algae. I wouldn't worry about that. CC should come down during the day today.
    19K gal, vinyl, 1/2 HP WhisperFlo pump, 200 sqft cartridge filter, AutoPilot Digital SWG, Dolphin Dynamic cleaning robot
    Creator of PoolMath and Pool Calculator. Other handy links: Support this site, TF Test Kits, Pool School

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    Re: Second test numbers after adding chemicals

    Thanks. I will assume CYA is 30 for now. What took me two week to accomplish last year seems to be taking quite a bit shorter time this year by following the simple suggestions from you guys. I am loving the BBB method and it is cheaper over the course of the summer once pool water is balanced and maintained properly. One other question. Is it ok to add the borates to the pool water now or do I need to wait until water is clear?
    Mountain View, Arkansas, 23,000 gallon in-ground concrete pool with a 24-in Hayward Pro-Series Sand Filter with side-mount. Chlorinator is attached but only use occasionally and a 1 hp pump.

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    Re: Second test numbers after adding chemicals

    I would wait on borates until you are done shocking.
    19K gal, vinyl, 1/2 HP WhisperFlo pump, 200 sqft cartridge filter, AutoPilot Digital SWG, Dolphin Dynamic cleaning robot
    Creator of PoolMath and Pool Calculator. Other handy links: Support this site, TF Test Kits, Pool School

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    Re: Second test numbers after adding chemicals

    Will do. Thanks for the input.
    Mountain View, Arkansas, 23,000 gallon in-ground concrete pool with a 24-in Hayward Pro-Series Sand Filter with side-mount. Chlorinator is attached but only use occasionally and a 1 hp pump.

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    Re: Second test numbers after adding chemicals

    Oops. While trying to maintain shock levels, I must have missed judged the chlorine reading or just plain did it wrong earlier. I ended up putting 4 bottles of 182 oz 6% bleach in about an hour and a half ago. Well I rechecked the FC 3 times and it is 32.5 with CC at 1. The pool gets plenty of sunshine during the day and I still havent rechecked CYA levels because it has only been a few days since I put it in. So I am assuming I have a 30-35 CYA level based on it being 0 when I opened the pool. I also read the CYA levels of 20 or less sometimes don't register. But anyway is the TC level of 33.5 going t hurt anything if I just leave it a lone and dont add anymore until it comes back down?

    pH = 7.2
    cH = 250
    TA = 80
    CYA = assuming 30-35 until retested
    FC = 32.5
    CC= 1.0
    TC = 33.5

    Thanks.
    Mountain View, Arkansas, 23,000 gallon in-ground concrete pool with a 24-in Hayward Pro-Series Sand Filter with side-mount. Chlorinator is attached but only use occasionally and a 1 hp pump.

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    Re: Second test numbers after adding chemicals

    But anyway is the TC level of 33.5 going t hurt anything if I just leave it a lone and dont add anymore until it comes back down?
    Probably not but it's done anyway so let it come on down naturally.

    Al, all good pool systems have a working pressure gauge. They're relatively cheap ($10) and an easy fix
    Dave S.
    42k vinyl and concrete pool, 1.5hp pump, 140gpm filter
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    Re: Second test numbers after adding chemicals

    Quote Originally Posted by ac130loadmaster
    ...after a week long search for a drain plug for my sand filter that somehow got lost over the winter. .... I also used the test kit I purchased from this site to get my numbers above. ....
    Oh I just hate that when it happens to losing the plug! Mine was leaking and the sand make it impossoble to seal up, so I take it off and lose it too like you. But then I find it.

    I want to buy the test kit too but I live in France.
    Pool-store refugee, Alsace France. AG 5k gal, sand filter, Brominator, pump 15 gpm (3.5 m3 / hour).
    Thanks to you guys we are switching to bleach from the supermarché!

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    Re: Second test numbers after adding chemicals

    Quote Originally Posted by duraleigh
    But anyway is the TC level of 33.5 going t hurt anything if I just leave it a lone and dont add anymore until it comes back down?
    Probably not but it's done anyway so let it come on down naturally.

    Al, all good pool systems have a working pressure gauge. They're relatively cheap ($10) and an easy fix

    I have a pressure gauge, just don't know how to install it. I'll be finding someone to help. Here are my number as of 0900 this morning:

    FC = 17.5
    CC = .5 or less. Very light tinge of red. One drop of R-871 immediately turned it clear.
    TC = 18.0
    TA = 80
    cH = 250
    pH = 7.3
    CYA = still registers 0. But I am thinking it is around 30-35.

    My FC level last night was high at 32.5. This morning after sun had been on it for 3 hours. Yes, I overslept to check the overnite FC drop. It was at 18.5. Both checks of CC was .5. Could this be because I actually have no CYA in the pool? Or could it be from that when there are high FC levels the level drop faster before reaching a slower dissipation rate. I vacuumed this morning and can see the main drain which is 8 feet deep. Water is clear except for some minor cloudiness. Am I finished shocking or do I need to continue? I want to add borates, but want to get pool shocking completed first.

    Thanks

    Al
    Mountain View, Arkansas, 23,000 gallon in-ground concrete pool with a 24-in Hayward Pro-Series Sand Filter with side-mount. Chlorinator is attached but only use occasionally and a 1 hp pump.

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    Re: Second test numbers after adding chemicals

    I have a pressure gauge, just don't know how to install it
    Unscrew the old one and discard it. wrap 2-3 turns of teflon tape on the new one and screw it in. No tools required.
    Dave S.
    42k vinyl and concrete pool, 1.5hp pump, 140gpm filter
    TFTestkits , PoolMath , Pool School

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    Re: Second test numbers after adding chemicals

    When the CYA level is very low you lose chlorine to sunlight very quickly. Losing that much chlorine in 3 hours is plausible when CYA is around 5 to 10. Chlorine loss goes as a percentage of the current FC level, so you can lose chlorine very quickly when it starts high.
    19K gal, vinyl, 1/2 HP WhisperFlo pump, 200 sqft cartridge filter, AutoPilot Digital SWG, Dolphin Dynamic cleaning robot
    Creator of PoolMath and Pool Calculator. Other handy links: Support this site, TF Test Kits, Pool School

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    Re: Second test numbers after adding chemicals

    Quote Originally Posted by duraleigh
    I have a pressure gauge, just don't know how to install it
    Unscrew the old one and discard it. wrap 2-3 turns of teflon tape on the new one and screw it in. No tools required.
    I have the pressure gauge but it isnt connected to the filter. I just bought one last week because I never had one. The filter I have is about 10 years old and I just bought the house 2 years ago. I thought I had a hayward filter, but it is not. Where do I attach the pressure gauge. Do you have any pics?
    Mountain View, Arkansas, 23,000 gallon in-ground concrete pool with a 24-in Hayward Pro-Series Sand Filter with side-mount. Chlorinator is attached but only use occasionally and a 1 hp pump.

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    Re: Second test numbers after adding chemicals

    Quote Originally Posted by JasonLion
    When the CYA level is very low you lose chlorine to sunlight very quickly. Losing that much chlorine in 3 hours is plausible when CYA is around 5 to 10. Chlorine loss goes as a percentage of the current FC level, so you can lose chlorine very quickly when it starts high.

    Do you suggest I add any more CYA or wait a few more days and test again. I tested again today and it had that white murky look to it, but I still could see the black dot. What is your suggestion?

    Thanks

    Al
    Mountain View, Arkansas, 23,000 gallon in-ground concrete pool with a 24-in Hayward Pro-Series Sand Filter with side-mount. Chlorinator is attached but only use occasionally and a 1 hp pump.

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    Re: Second test numbers after adding chemicals

    Wait the full week before testing CYA again and meanwhile add most of your chlorine in the evening so you don't lose quite so much to sunlight.
    19K gal, vinyl, 1/2 HP WhisperFlo pump, 200 sqft cartridge filter, AutoPilot Digital SWG, Dolphin Dynamic cleaning robot
    Creator of PoolMath and Pool Calculator. Other handy links: Support this site, TF Test Kits, Pool School

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    Re: Second test numbers after adding chemicals

    Quote Originally Posted by ac130loadmaster
    Quote Originally Posted by duraleigh
    I have a pressure gauge, just don't know how to install it
    Unscrew the old one and discard it. wrap 2-3 turns of teflon tape on the new one and screw it in. No tools required.
    I have the pressure gauge but it isnt connected to the filter. I just bought one last week because I never had one. The filter I have is about 10 years old and I just bought the house 2 years ago. I thought I had a hayward filter, but it is not. Where do I attach the pressure gauge. Do you have any pics?
    You'd need to examine the housing of your pump closely and look for a threaded boss. That's a flat spot of metal with a threaded hole in it that would match the male threads on your gauge. There may or may not be a boss on your pump. It would be on the output side of the pump.

    If you have none, that's not a big problem. You just need to plumb in a T fitting with said threaded boss in it. It would go in right after the pump output, before the filter. Just measure the pipe where you will put the T, then take your gauge to the pool store and tell them what you want to do. If it's a good pool store they will be able to help you given the size of the pipe where you want to put the T.
    Pool-store refugee, Alsace France. AG 5k gal, sand filter, Brominator, pump 15 gpm (3.5 m3 / hour).
    Thanks to you guys we are switching to bleach from the supermarché!

  20. Back To Top    #20

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    Re: Second test numbers after adding chemicals

    You'd need to examine the housing of your pump closely and look for a threaded boss. That's a flat spot of metal with a threaded hole in it that would match the male threads on your gauge. There may or may not be a boss on your pump. It would be on the output side of the pump.

    If you have none, that's not a big problem. You just need to plumb in a T fitting with said threaded boss in it. It would go in right after the pump output, before the filter. Just measure the pipe where you will put the T, then take your gauge to the pool store and tell them what you want to do. If it's a good pool store they will be able to help you given the size of the pipe where you want to put the T.[/quote]

    Thank you very much. I found the place on the output side of the pump. The pool guy I used at the beginning of last summer, key word being beginning. Said I didn't have a place for a pressure gauge. I fired him for many reasons and this is just another. I have learned more about pools from you guys than any pool store could ever offer. Anyway, I have the gauge hooked up and the needle bounces back and forth between 17 and 14 psi. When I back washed it was a little more steady at 10 psi. Is this normal? Or could the gauge be bad?
    Mountain View, Arkansas, 23,000 gallon in-ground concrete pool with a 24-in Hayward Pro-Series Sand Filter with side-mount. Chlorinator is attached but only use occasionally and a 1 hp pump.

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