CPSC48 install (mostly new reports of pool conditions)
- Thread starter bobodaclown
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franke
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Re: CPSC48 install
Mine is still over producing was at 5.5 this morning and after a full day of sun and 3 grandchildren playing all afternoon it was 6.0 at the end of the day. Dropped it down to 30 percent from 40. Running pump 10 hrs/day. If still high after 2 more days I will start to cut back pump time.
Mine is still over producing was at 5.5 this morning and after a full day of sun and 3 grandchildren playing all afternoon it was 6.0 at the end of the day. Dropped it down to 30 percent from 40. Running pump 10 hrs/day. If still high after 2 more days I will start to cut back pump time.
Re: CPSC48 install
Sounds good. When I purchased the house with the pool the original owner only had the timer on for 4 hours. I'm running it about 5 hours and the water looks good. My CYA level is high so I'm running a bit higher FC level. I'm at approx FC level of 8. Approx 5 hours and 60%. Still figuring it out. Bather load is 3 adults. My dad (he's 80) is in and out several times a day. Works around the yard, gets hot and jumps in, cools off, and repeat several times. LOL.
I get yard debris in the pool, Spanish moss and leaves in the pool daily that also contribute to the chlorine usage. My CC level is 0. Overall life is good.
Sounds good. When I purchased the house with the pool the original owner only had the timer on for 4 hours. I'm running it about 5 hours and the water looks good. My CYA level is high so I'm running a bit higher FC level. I'm at approx FC level of 8. Approx 5 hours and 60%. Still figuring it out. Bather load is 3 adults. My dad (he's 80) is in and out several times a day. Works around the yard, gets hot and jumps in, cools off, and repeat several times. LOL.
I get yard debris in the pool, Spanish moss and leaves in the pool daily that also contribute to the chlorine usage. My CC level is 0. Overall life is good.
Re: CPSC48 install
Hello,
Test numbers for 6/11.
FC=7.5, TC=7.5, PH 7.5, TA=137 approx, CH=350, Borates=45, Salt=4000
Using http://www.poolcalculator.com/ my CSI=-.16 which is good. Plaster pool.
My pump is running approx 5 hours minimum. (run a little longer when people are in it) CPSC is set for 60% output. Water is clear I can make out the design on the pool drain cover.
Pool isn't enclosed so I do get leaves and such in it daily. Clean skimmer basket and manually skim off the big stuff. (Ususally brush and Vac once a week) My cartridge filter when new started at 2.5 PSI, I added synthetic DE to increase efficiency, my PSI is now at 4.5 PSI. I'll prob clean when it gets to 7.5 PSI.
My game plan is to keep an eye on the FC and PH. When my PH gets to 7.8, i'll knock it down to 7.0 (1 Gallon of acid) then aerate to bring it up. That will also bring the TA down. It's coming down slowly. With the FC, if it gets down to 6 I'll look at increasing the output % or increasing the run time.
Hello,
Test numbers for 6/11.
FC=7.5, TC=7.5, PH 7.5, TA=137 approx, CH=350, Borates=45, Salt=4000
Using http://www.poolcalculator.com/ my CSI=-.16 which is good. Plaster pool.
My pump is running approx 5 hours minimum. (run a little longer when people are in it) CPSC is set for 60% output. Water is clear I can make out the design on the pool drain cover.
Pool isn't enclosed so I do get leaves and such in it daily. Clean skimmer basket and manually skim off the big stuff. (Ususally brush and Vac once a week) My cartridge filter when new started at 2.5 PSI, I added synthetic DE to increase efficiency, my PSI is now at 4.5 PSI. I'll prob clean when it gets to 7.5 PSI.
My game plan is to keep an eye on the FC and PH. When my PH gets to 7.8, i'll knock it down to 7.0 (1 Gallon of acid) then aerate to bring it up. That will also bring the TA down. It's coming down slowly. With the FC, if it gets down to 6 I'll look at increasing the output % or increasing the run time.
Re: CPSC48 install
Test numbers 6/18.
FC=7.0 TC=7.0 PH 7.5, TA=125 CH=350 Borates=45 Salt=4000
My TA is coming down, ever so slowly. I think I'll try keeping it around 7.2 for a while, instead of letting it climb up to 7.5 then adding 80 or so ounces of Muriatic Acid (MA) to knock it back down to 7.2. I'll give it more attention add acid more often and see if I can knock the TA down quicker.
Water is looking very nice. We've had some rain this week so the water level is the highest it's been. I've got no easy way to drain it, cartridge filter and there is no drain to waste or valve that plumbed in to use the pool pump to drain it.
I've got a floating weir skimmer basket that is doing well. Both skimmer drain and main drain are fully open. Pressure on cartridge filter started at 2.5 PSI and is now at 4.5 PSI. I have added some synthetic DE. It did improve the filtering capabilities of the filter. You can tell in the evening with the light on. There are less floaties in the light.
Been trying to adjust the CSPC 48 output to get a stable FC/TC reading looks in the past week I knocked it down from 60% to 40%. Oh, I've got a run time of about 7 hours. I think I may buy some dogs and try to break the run time up.
I'm kind of funny I like looking out at a clean pool in the AM, but also like the pump on when people are in the pool. In my mind people shed dead skin cells and they need to get filtered sooner than later so I like the pump on when people are in it. That increases my pump run time during the day. Hmmm. Maybe I'll run it for an hour in the AM (skim the leaves and such) and then 2PM to 6PM or so, during the heavy usage period.
So far so good. I'm pleased with the CPSC SWCG I've picked up. Time will tell and I'll keep you informed. A big THANK YOU to all who read this hope it help you.
Test numbers 6/18.
FC=7.0 TC=7.0 PH 7.5, TA=125 CH=350 Borates=45 Salt=4000
My TA is coming down, ever so slowly. I think I'll try keeping it around 7.2 for a while, instead of letting it climb up to 7.5 then adding 80 or so ounces of Muriatic Acid (MA) to knock it back down to 7.2. I'll give it more attention add acid more often and see if I can knock the TA down quicker.
Water is looking very nice. We've had some rain this week so the water level is the highest it's been. I've got no easy way to drain it, cartridge filter and there is no drain to waste or valve that plumbed in to use the pool pump to drain it.
I've got a floating weir skimmer basket that is doing well. Both skimmer drain and main drain are fully open. Pressure on cartridge filter started at 2.5 PSI and is now at 4.5 PSI. I have added some synthetic DE. It did improve the filtering capabilities of the filter. You can tell in the evening with the light on. There are less floaties in the light.
Been trying to adjust the CSPC 48 output to get a stable FC/TC reading looks in the past week I knocked it down from 60% to 40%. Oh, I've got a run time of about 7 hours. I think I may buy some dogs and try to break the run time up.
I'm kind of funny I like looking out at a clean pool in the AM, but also like the pump on when people are in the pool. In my mind people shed dead skin cells and they need to get filtered sooner than later so I like the pump on when people are in it. That increases my pump run time during the day. Hmmm. Maybe I'll run it for an hour in the AM (skim the leaves and such) and then 2PM to 6PM or so, during the heavy usage period.
So far so good. I'm pleased with the CPSC SWCG I've picked up. Time will tell and I'll keep you informed. A big THANK YOU to all who read this hope it help you.
Re: CPSC48 install
Really appreciate the detailed review w/photos. Very helpful. I had pretty much decided on a Hayward but now rethinking that.
Would you mind elaborating on the electrical connections during installation? I downloaded an owners manual for the 36 (couldn't find one for the 48 online) and the installation instructions seem to indicate you plug the SWG control head into a standard outlet and then plug the pump into an outlet on the control head.
You indicated you hard-wired directly to your existing pump timer. Any issues with that? Did you need to cut plugs off the unit or did it come set up to be hard-wired? Did you have to adjust a setting on the control head to enable the use of an external timer?
Also, what is your feeling on how weather-proof the control head is? Mine would be on the side of my house, direct sun with very little protection from the roof overhang (pretty much right out in the open)
Thanks, Mark
Really appreciate the detailed review w/photos. Very helpful. I had pretty much decided on a Hayward but now rethinking that.
Would you mind elaborating on the electrical connections during installation? I downloaded an owners manual for the 36 (couldn't find one for the 48 online) and the installation instructions seem to indicate you plug the SWG control head into a standard outlet and then plug the pump into an outlet on the control head.
You indicated you hard-wired directly to your existing pump timer. Any issues with that? Did you need to cut plugs off the unit or did it come set up to be hard-wired? Did you have to adjust a setting on the control head to enable the use of an external timer?
Also, what is your feeling on how weather-proof the control head is? Mine would be on the side of my house, direct sun with very little protection from the roof overhang (pretty much right out in the open)
Thanks, Mark
Re: CPSC48 install
Hi Mark,
Electrical connection: comes wired for 240V. You have to change it for 120V. My pool pump is 120V so it didn't make sense to add a new 240V circuit. Converted it to 120V (J12 to J11, J8 to J14). It's easy just change the position of the connectors. Pretty simple. This unit is designed to be hard wired. Doesn't come with a 120V plug but I guess you could add one to the end of the cord if you just wanted to plug it in. The problem would be ensuring you have water flow when the SWCG is on. That why it runs with the pump.
It does have a built in timer function but I did not go that route. I'm using an external timer. (The one that runs the pool pump). The instructions are lacking for internal timer function, but I'm sure calling compupool they would be very helpful.
You could add a pig tail connector and twist lock connectors and run it from the timer. I had an empty timer box that wasn't being used (it was let over from a boost pump). I had all the connectors there could use the knock out. It made for a cleaner install for me.
No issues. I think at max it draws 400 watts or so. It does get warm/hot. Overall it seems pretty water proof. Mine is mounted on the side of the house exposed. So far so good. The whole back of the unit is a heat sink.
Mounting on the wall is pretty easy. I was very surprised how heavy the power supply is. You mount the wall mount then mount the power supply to the mount. Pretty nice.
I'm running my unit at 40%, I've got a 17K pool and I purchased the CPSC 48. It may be overkill but it seems to be working out for me.
In the manual it states 12,500 hours under normal use conditions. I consider normal conditions as 100%. Cut it back by 1/2 I think you basically double the time. I'm running my SWCG 7 hours a day 12,500/7=1785 days/365= 4 years 10 months. Because I'm running at 40% I'm hoping 8-9 years rounding my numbers. Only time will tell. The price difference between the CPSC 36 and 48 wasn't all that much.
Hi Mark,
Electrical connection: comes wired for 240V. You have to change it for 120V. My pool pump is 120V so it didn't make sense to add a new 240V circuit. Converted it to 120V (J12 to J11, J8 to J14). It's easy just change the position of the connectors. Pretty simple. This unit is designed to be hard wired. Doesn't come with a 120V plug but I guess you could add one to the end of the cord if you just wanted to plug it in. The problem would be ensuring you have water flow when the SWCG is on. That why it runs with the pump.
It does have a built in timer function but I did not go that route. I'm using an external timer. (The one that runs the pool pump). The instructions are lacking for internal timer function, but I'm sure calling compupool they would be very helpful.
You could add a pig tail connector and twist lock connectors and run it from the timer. I had an empty timer box that wasn't being used (it was let over from a boost pump). I had all the connectors there could use the knock out. It made for a cleaner install for me.
No issues. I think at max it draws 400 watts or so. It does get warm/hot. Overall it seems pretty water proof. Mine is mounted on the side of the house exposed. So far so good. The whole back of the unit is a heat sink.
Mounting on the wall is pretty easy. I was very surprised how heavy the power supply is. You mount the wall mount then mount the power supply to the mount. Pretty nice.
I'm running my unit at 40%, I've got a 17K pool and I purchased the CPSC 48. It may be overkill but it seems to be working out for me.
In the manual it states 12,500 hours under normal use conditions. I consider normal conditions as 100%. Cut it back by 1/2 I think you basically double the time. I'm running my SWCG 7 hours a day 12,500/7=1785 days/365= 4 years 10 months. Because I'm running at 40% I'm hoping 8-9 years rounding my numbers. Only time will tell. The price difference between the CPSC 36 and 48 wasn't all that much.
Re: CPSC48 install
6/25 numbers
FC 8.5, CC 0.5, TC 9.0, PH 7.3, TA 100, CH 375.
CC I believe is due to some leaves and debris in pool.
TA is coming down slowly. I added 32 ounces of MA to bring PH down to 7.1.
Pump run time is 7 hours (2 cycles of 2 hours in AM then 5 hours in PM). SWCG is at 40%.
Water looks and feels great.
Swapped out cartridges. PSI climbed 5PSI. According to the manual it needs to be cleaned at 10 PSI rise but my starting PSI is pretty low (3 PSI). It was pretty dirty at 9PSI.
6/25 numbers
FC 8.5, CC 0.5, TC 9.0, PH 7.3, TA 100, CH 375.
CC I believe is due to some leaves and debris in pool.
TA is coming down slowly. I added 32 ounces of MA to bring PH down to 7.1.
Pump run time is 7 hours (2 cycles of 2 hours in AM then 5 hours in PM). SWCG is at 40%.
Water looks and feels great.
Swapped out cartridges. PSI climbed 5PSI. According to the manual it needs to be cleaned at 10 PSI rise but my starting PSI is pretty low (3 PSI). It was pretty dirty at 9PSI.
Re: CPSC48 install
7/9 Test numbers
FC 4.5, CC 0.5, TC 5, PH 7.3, TA 85, CH 375
Lots of rain, had to drain out about 2 inches from the pool. Water looks and feels great.
Pump run time is 6 hours (10am to 4 PM), SWCG is at 50%.
Swapped out cartridges. Starting pressure was at 4.5 psi.
Also picked up a robotic cleaner. Nitro Smartkleen.
7/9 Test numbers
FC 4.5, CC 0.5, TC 5, PH 7.3, TA 85, CH 375
Lots of rain, had to drain out about 2 inches from the pool. Water looks and feels great.
Pump run time is 6 hours (10am to 4 PM), SWCG is at 50%.
Swapped out cartridges. Starting pressure was at 4.5 psi.
Also picked up a robotic cleaner. Nitro Smartkleen.
Re: CPSC48 install
OK Bobo,
You sucked me into your little Compupool world, and am I glad you did!!!
I bought the CPSC36, only because I found a great deal on it and was much cheaper than the best price I could find on the 48. Installed it last weekend and still getting things dialed in but so far it's working great and I think will keep up with demand fine.
I'm at 70% with 11hr run time on 24K gallons and it is overproducing (climbed 1.5 ppm in the last 24 hrs with higher load) so will dial it back a bit. Every time I tweak it, I have a BIG smile on my face because adjusting SWG output is so much more fun than manually adding chlorine
Anyway, this thread is what kicked me off the fence so wanted to thank you again for such a great and detailed write-up.
OK Bobo,
You sucked me into your little Compupool world, and am I glad you did!!!
I bought the CPSC36, only because I found a great deal on it and was much cheaper than the best price I could find on the 48. Installed it last weekend and still getting things dialed in but so far it's working great and I think will keep up with demand fine.
I'm at 70% with 11hr run time on 24K gallons and it is overproducing (climbed 1.5 ppm in the last 24 hrs with higher load) so will dial it back a bit. Every time I tweak it, I have a BIG smile on my face because adjusting SWG output is so much more fun than manually adding chlorine
Anyway, this thread is what kicked me off the fence so wanted to thank you again for such a great and detailed write-up.
Re: CPSC48 install
Thanks. I'm also using it as a running log. To keep track of things. Glad it's working well for you!
Thanks. I'm also using it as a running log. To keep track of things. Glad it's working well for you!
Re: CPSC48 install
7/16 Test numbers and notes:
Hello thanks for reading.
FC 4.5, CC 0.5, TC 5.0, PH 7.4, TA 85, CH 375
Did some changes to the returns and the suction setting (skimmer/main adjustments). Also found out the pool heater works!!!
I went with larger holed returns on some of the secondary returns and it dropped the total system pressure as measured on the filter. It dropped the system psi about 2.5 PSI total. I also adjusted the valves to get better skimmer action, and still provide some water from the bottom of the pool.
I've increased my pump run time to 7 hours and SWCG is at 60%.
I haven't had to add any MA this week. PH is climbing ever so slow. Finally! This week it's a little above 7.4, but well below 7.6. I'll add some MA when it gets to 7.8 or so and knock it down to 7.5 ish. I figured the acid demand total I needed per drop on the Taylor test. 1 drop equals 15.64 ounces for a 17K gallon pool. I'll just use 16 ounces per drop. Close enough.
I'm really disliking leaves but it does provide some nice shade. I skim daily, brush every couple days and run Roobie every 2-3 days.
This site is addictive. Thanks for all the encouragement and help. Hope this post helps others.
7/16 Test numbers and notes:
Hello thanks for reading.
FC 4.5, CC 0.5, TC 5.0, PH 7.4, TA 85, CH 375
Did some changes to the returns and the suction setting (skimmer/main adjustments). Also found out the pool heater works!!!
I went with larger holed returns on some of the secondary returns and it dropped the total system pressure as measured on the filter. It dropped the system psi about 2.5 PSI total. I also adjusted the valves to get better skimmer action, and still provide some water from the bottom of the pool.
I've increased my pump run time to 7 hours and SWCG is at 60%.
I haven't had to add any MA this week. PH is climbing ever so slow. Finally! This week it's a little above 7.4, but well below 7.6. I'll add some MA when it gets to 7.8 or so and knock it down to 7.5 ish. I figured the acid demand total I needed per drop on the Taylor test. 1 drop equals 15.64 ounces for a 17K gallon pool. I'll just use 16 ounces per drop. Close enough.
I'm really disliking leaves but it does provide some nice shade. I skim daily, brush every couple days and run Roobie every 2-3 days.
This site is addictive. Thanks for all the encouragement and help. Hope this post helps others.
Re: CPSC48 install Salt Calibration
I have seen a few AutoPilots come out the box as much as 1,000 PPM high. I would recommend to anyone installing a new system check with their water provider and calibrate it before adding salt. Someone I know added the salt first and then drained about a third of the water to get it back to the target level, only to have to calibrate it and add the salt back. I would think you can always throw it into a bucket of water to test it later.
I have seen a few AutoPilots come out the box as much as 1,000 PPM high. I would recommend to anyone installing a new system check with their water provider and calibrate it before adding salt. Someone I know added the salt first and then drained about a third of the water to get it back to the target level, only to have to calibrate it and add the salt back. I would think you can always throw it into a bucket of water to test it later.
Re: CPSC48 install
Jason thanks for bringing it to my attention that The above post I made does seem out I context wig the later part of the discussion in this thread. I was responding to the earlier part of the discussion between Bob and Franke about the calibration lookinglike it was off. I should have quoted the earlier posts in the thread. The part I was responding to was:
And Bob responded: "My temp reading is about 6 degrees high and my salt reading is also high. I'm not worried too much about those reading though. I've adjusted my CPSC 48 to 40% production."
I hope this makes the point I was trying to clearer. And that point was, some of the salt sensors are wAy off new and need to be calibrated.
Thanks
Jason thanks for bringing it to my attention that The above post I made does seem out I context wig the later part of the discussion in this thread. I was responding to the earlier part of the discussion between Bob and Franke about the calibration lookinglike it was off. I should have quoted the earlier posts in the thread. The part I was responding to was:
franke said:
And Bob responded: "My temp reading is about 6 degrees high and my salt reading is also high. I'm not worried too much about those reading though. I've adjusted my CPSC 48 to 40% production."
I hope this makes the point I was trying to clearer. And that point was, some of the salt sensors are wAy off new and need to be calibrated.
Thanks
Re: CPSC48 install
The counter point is that the salt meter in the SWG is usually the most precise salt test available, and recalibrating it based on something else with much less precision doesn't make much sense.
The counter point is that the salt meter in the SWG is usually the most precise salt test available, and recalibrating it based on something else with much less precision doesn't make much sense.
Re: CPSC48 install
Just an FYI, FastCougar has been trying to sell his.
You may want to check it out if your seriously looking at buying one.
As for the salt content. I too was having issues with it reading way high (CSPC36 reading 5900, Salt strips were 3480). I responded the other day to a solution I may have found to correct the high reading after I talked to customer service.
David,dvanburen said:I was wondering about this, thanks. I may pick one of these up in the next few weeks. Will decide between the CPSC48 and CPSC36 once I get some back pay
David
Just an FYI, FastCougar has been trying to sell his.
You may want to check it out if your seriously looking at buying one.
Franke, My temp reading is always at 69 for some unknown reason. i just use the thermometer in my pool, which is at 94.franke said:
As for the salt content. I too was having issues with it reading way high (CSPC36 reading 5900, Salt strips were 3480). I responded the other day to a solution I may have found to correct the high reading after I talked to customer service.
Re: CPSC48 install
I wouldn't calibrate based on a test strip either, that's not what I'm saying. I calibrated mine by calling my local water utility test lab and asking how many PPM of salt I could expect in my pool fill water right out the tap. I don't remember the exact number he told me but I do remember it was a single digit number. He also that they test it evey day and he couldn't remember seing it over ten.
My AutoPilot right out the box said that very tap water was 900. That made me wonder if the plaster had anything to do with it so I removed the Tri-Sensor put it in a bucket of tap water and it still said 900. I called The manufacturer and they told me to set it to zero.
I recently replaced the main DIG-220 without changing the manifold and the reading stayed the same. A friend of mine just replaced his manifold, cell and everything and his was also the same as the old reading. It appears they are calibrating the Autopilots at the factory before shipping but between 4-5 years ago as myself and two of my friends remodeled pools post Katrina, we all bought the same system and of the three one was off a couple of hundred PPM and two were off close to a thousand PPM according to the local water utilities. A thousand PPM is just too much for me. I suspect if that was an exceptable error we would be measuring in parts per thousand. B
If you have municipal tap water from a utility of any size they have an in house test lab and will gladly give you the info. If you live in a rural area with a tiny water utility or you have a well, that would be a bigger issue that might require finding a reliable test lab if you want to know that bad.
I would never advise anyone to calibrate it from a test strip as I am the guy that find them very hard to read. I usually have my wife read it if I must and the only thing I use them for now is Borates. That said when the error is very large and you have "known level" as I did I don't think you have choice. If I uderstand the importance of the salt level, being off 900PPM could cause under production if it is too low and overheating if it is too high, although three that I saw that were off were all reading higher than the actual amount of salt in the water.
Take care.
JasonLion said:
I wouldn't calibrate based on a test strip either, that's not what I'm saying. I calibrated mine by calling my local water utility test lab and asking how many PPM of salt I could expect in my pool fill water right out the tap. I don't remember the exact number he told me but I do remember it was a single digit number. He also that they test it evey day and he couldn't remember seing it over ten.
My AutoPilot right out the box said that very tap water was 900. That made me wonder if the plaster had anything to do with it so I removed the Tri-Sensor put it in a bucket of tap water and it still said 900. I called The manufacturer and they told me to set it to zero.
I recently replaced the main DIG-220 without changing the manifold and the reading stayed the same. A friend of mine just replaced his manifold, cell and everything and his was also the same as the old reading. It appears they are calibrating the Autopilots at the factory before shipping but between 4-5 years ago as myself and two of my friends remodeled pools post Katrina, we all bought the same system and of the three one was off a couple of hundred PPM and two were off close to a thousand PPM according to the local water utilities. A thousand PPM is just too much for me. I suspect if that was an exceptable error we would be measuring in parts per thousand. B
If you have municipal tap water from a utility of any size they have an in house test lab and will gladly give you the info. If you live in a rural area with a tiny water utility or you have a well, that would be a bigger issue that might require finding a reliable test lab if you want to know that bad.
I would never advise anyone to calibrate it from a test strip as I am the guy that find them very hard to read. I usually have my wife read it if I must and the only thing I use them for now is Borates. That said when the error is very large and you have "known level" as I did I don't think you have choice. If I uderstand the importance of the salt level, being off 900PPM could cause under production if it is too low and overheating if it is too high, although three that I saw that were off were all reading higher than the actual amount of salt in the water.
Take care.
Re: CPSC48 install
WSP If this is a new system you might want to have them trouble shoot that bad temp reading. It may need a temp sensor or something that is in warranty. On the Autopilot I own, it adjusts the output up and down based on the temp and it won't do that if the temp reading is off. I know many systems don't have that feature, which can be a PITA in the winter anyway, but either way they may have put that sensor on the for some reason other than letting you know the pool temp.
WestSidePool said:
WSP If this is a new system you might want to have them trouble shoot that bad temp reading. It may need a temp sensor or something that is in warranty. On the Autopilot I own, it adjusts the output up and down based on the temp and it won't do that if the temp reading is off. I know many systems don't have that feature, which can be a PITA in the winter anyway, but either way they may have put that sensor on the for some reason other than letting you know the pool temp.
Re: CPSC48 install
Test numbers 7/30
TC 7.5, FC 7.5, CC 0, PH 7.6, TA 100, CH 375, CYA 110, Borates 40
Everything is looking good. Nitro Pool Cleaner is doing a fine job. Water is sparkly. 8 hours (9-5) 60% output. Temp is 84 F.
PH is still climbing faster than I would like. I'm slowly lowering the TA. I'd like to get the TA down to 75 and see what happens.
Test numbers 7/30
TC 7.5, FC 7.5, CC 0, PH 7.6, TA 100, CH 375, CYA 110, Borates 40
Everything is looking good. Nitro Pool Cleaner is doing a fine job. Water is sparkly. 8 hours (9-5) 60% output. Temp is 84 F.
PH is still climbing faster than I would like. I'm slowly lowering the TA. I'd like to get the TA down to 75 and see what happens.
Re: CPSC48 install
I have been testing the TA using 10 ml measurement, today I used the 25ml measure. TA still at 100. Brought PH down 7.6 to 7.2 added about 52 ounces of MA. Aerating to bring PH back up. It seems I've been stuck at 100 for a while. Grrrrr.
I have been testing the TA using 10 ml measurement, today I used the 25ml measure. TA still at 100. Brought PH down 7.6 to 7.2 added about 52 ounces of MA. Aerating to bring PH back up. It seems I've been stuck at 100 for a while. Grrrrr.