Opening a green swamp, currently blue and very cloudy

May 23, 2011
16
Guys, I am having some problems, and wanted to post for some help. I will state that I ordered a decent test kit (TF100) on Sunday, and am currently using test strips and Leslies to get more accurate readings.

I am assuming that my water has ammonia in it (I will test after work) because I let my FC go to 0 over the winter and turn to a swamp. I have been pouring in 4.5 gallons of bleach a day to shock my pool to start it up and did this for a week. I also added polyquat 60% It went from dark green to blue and cloudy. Leslie's tested my water and got FC 1.0, CC 1.0, Ph 7.4, Alk 100, CYA 30. From that point on I was using test strips (I know, I know, but it was between paydays and I have since ordered a TF100). For the whole week the cya appeared to stay at 30 and the Ph and alk stayed the same. Every night for a week I added 4.2 gallons of 6% bleach to keep it at or above 13 ppm chlorine.

This is where I messed up and my question comes in. I was getting a reading of 5-10 ppm TC while showing no FC. I decided to add 21 gallons of bleach to superchlorinate the pool and kill the suspected ammonia. I tested (with a strip) 4 hours later and my PH is showing as 6.2 while my ALK remained at 100 ppm and my water is showing no TC or FC. I got the same reading the next morning. I confirmed the Chlorine lvl was 0with an OTO test and the Ph showed as 6.2 on the drip test as well. My CYA showed as 0 on a test strip. after super shocking. My questions is would adding that much bleach cause the chlorine to drop to 0, ph to drop at least a full point and cause my CYA to disappear, or could these all be false readings caused by the superchlorination?

I will post accurate numbers and ask for more help when my TF100 kit comes.
 
Welcome to TFP!

Most likely, those are all false readings from an extremely high FC level. Try diluting the pool water one to one with some chlorine free water (perhaps distilled water) and testing that.
 
Hey Wes, When do you expect to receive your test kit.

I just got some refills for my TF100 kit and have new extras of the chemicals you need to test your FC drop tests.

I work in Birmingham and if it would help could loan you what I have to get you going and then you can just give me the ones that come in your kit when you get it. I hate to see you spend more money blindly.
 
Thanks, man! I got an email today saying it shipped today and will be here between today and Wed.

I tested my water using strips and the OTO method. I am showing no FC or TC using either method. I even diluted the water 1:1 and tried and still got 0 chlorine. I diluted all the way to 1 part pool water to three parts Tap Water and still got no chlorine. Using the strips my ALK is showing up as around 100, but my PH is still showing as 6.8.

I tested for ammonia and it appears that the ammonia level is 0.

What should I do now? Wait til my test kit gets here, or should I add some borax and stabilizer and continue shocking to a level that would be 12ppm as I have since my water is cloudy?
 
The OTO test is very reliable. If the OTO test says there isn't any chlorine, then there isn't any chlorine.

First, you need to get PH back into range, up to at least 7.2.

After that, I would go back to adding chlorine in smaller quantities (ie not 21 gallons all at once) and somewhat more frequently.
 
Went and bought borax and bleach. I decided to shock tonite and add borax in the morning before work. TC and FC both holding at 10ppm per strips and OTO. How on earth did 21 gallons worth of bleach chlorine disappear in two hours?????

What is the best way to add the pool calculator calculated 14 pounds of borax?
 
The best approach is to pre-disolve the borax with water in a bucket and then pour that slowly in front of a return jet.

I presume that there was ammonia in the pool before. Chlorine reacts rather quickly with ammonia.
 
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