Gap between concrete and pool border

LeeM2

0
Jul 3, 2010
96
This pool was built by previous owner about 5-6 years ago. This is going to be my 2nd summer.

I have this gap around the whole pool and I believe this gap is getting bigger(or may be I just started paying too much attention to it). Guys who closed my pool last fall said they have never seen a gap like this and it must be filled otherwise pool surface my start falling. What do you guys think? Does this gap need to be filled and if so, what does it need to be filled with?

Thanks
 

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The gap is supposed to be there. It is an expansion joint. It protects the coping from being damaged when the concrete deck expands and contracts. It should have been filled with caulk to prevent water from going through the crack.

Based on the way the foam is not filling the entire crack, it looks like the expansion joint has gotten bigger, probably due to the deck settling due to water getting in the crack.

All of the foam should be removed and the crack should be filled with caulk.
 
Caulk or silicone? any particular kind? do I need to get one from pool stores or home depot will do?

Also, would there be any reason why it wasn't caulked in the first place?

Thanks.
 
Caulking comes in several viscosity grades or "thicknesses" depending on the intended use. There is "gun grade", which is intended for non-level joints. There is a Semi Self-leveling, which in thinner and flows more readily. And, there is self-leveling, which is intended for very level joints and flows easily.

BASF/ SONNEBORN SL-1, Sonneborn NP1 Polyurethane Sealant and Vulkem #45 are some example of caulking that can be used.
 
Judging from the pixs, it looks like the original pool builder didn't finish his job. The PB didn't apply any mastic material in the expansion joints...Water has been 'pouring' in the gap for 5 or 6 years. :grrrr:

A typical gap is about 1/2", but your pixs show about an 1". It looks like your deck is moving away from the pool. Is this portion of the deck adjacent to any other concrete slab/structure? What is the deck's sq. ft?

You definitely need to seal the gap asap and prevent further movement of the deck.

PM
 
JamesW said:
Caulking comes in several viscosity grades or "thicknesses" depending on the intended use. There is "gun grade", which is intended for non-level joints. There is a Semi Self-leveling, which in thinner and flows more readily. And, there is self-leveling, which is intended for very level joints and flows easily.

BASF/ SONNEBORN SL-1, Sonneborn NP1 Polyurethane Sealant and Vulkem #45 are some example of caulking that can be used.

Thank you.

Vulkem 45 is significantly more expensive then the other two. Is there a reason why?

Also, I have no idea how many OZ I need and wonder how to figure that out.

Thanks
 
It looks like part of my deck has moved, but I can't say when it started moving and whether it's still moving.

This deck was build about 6 years ago.

Attached are some more pictures with questions embedded.

Thanks
 

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Yup, the deck has been moving. :|

The areas you point to aren't an issue, for now. The deck seams (control joints) are supposed to do that , or, at least, that's why they are there and the skimmer gap is a result of the deck moving and is above the water level, so isn't going to cause you issues at this time.

Would it be better if this wasn't happening? - YES! But, I think your builder didn't let the ground reach ~ full compaction before pouring the deck :hammer: While it's not a problem now, the freeze/ thaw cycle will only exacerbate the cracks as the years go by :(
 
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Another question - the joint on the first set of pictures is about 3-5 inches deep, filled with the backer rod or whatever that foam like material is called.

I read somewhere someone fill it with sand. Is that the right approach, maybe with backer rod on top?

Or should I just get backer rod about 25% wider then the gap and stick it in on top of existing one pushing existing one down?

Also, I guess the backer rod should be about .25"-.5" below the surface, leaving that .25"-.5" space for the caulk. correct ?


The areas I point out with arrows on the 2nd set of pictures - Will the water getting behind the deck seam cause a problem?
If so, should I could vacuum around the deck seams and caulk there?

Thanks.
 
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Here's what I'm going to try this year - Natural Pool Masticâ„¢ AKA Santastic.

Here's the web site - http://www.santasticpoolmastic.com/

Looks like it's easier to use than caulk and you fill most of the gap with sand instead of backer rod. I've got a friend who went the traditional way last year (backer rod, caulk) and he's had some failure, with caulk pulling away from the sides in less than a year.

Haven't done it yet - just recovering from knee surgery, so I'm not up for a lot of kneeling yet. And this is a down on your hands-and-knees job....

I'll report back after I've done the work.

Cheers!
 
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