purple primer -> clear cement

Lershac

TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
May 1, 2007
1,217
Baton Rouge, LA
Hi Guys, looking for some info about using clear cement instead of the purple primer and cement (for looks). For the clear cement, do you use a primer? The cans say to use the primer, but I cannot find any that is not the purple stuff!

Are the clear cementers just skipping the primer, or is there a clear primer? Any info about this would be interesting to read.

Thanks

Chuck
 
Clear PVC glue is easy to find. There are colored glues i.e. the blue stuff a lot of pool guys use, or grey stuff for conduit. Some of the other colored stuff is for CPVC. Yes, there is clear primer; Oatay 30750. HD or lowes should have it. If not a plumbing store should. The purple stuff looks awful I agree. The reason it's still around is that when you actually have plumbing inspected, some jurisdictions require it because the inspector can see that it's been applied.
 
The main issue is that some areas building codes require the use of purple primer. In those areas they often don't sell clear primer, but clear primer is made and can be mail ordered if the store doesn't have it.

The pipes should be painted with a UV opaque paint, so primer color isn't usually a big deal.
 
As a plumber for 26 years this question is endless. Direct from Oatey, the maker of solvent products,1. What is the difference between pipe cleaner, primer / cleaner and primer?

All pipe surfaces should be thoroughly cleaned with pipe cleaner. The cleaner is formulated to remove surface dirt and any oil or grease that exists on the pipe from the manufacturing process. Primer/cleaner and primer contain more aggressive solvents and will soften the pipe surface to allow the solvent cement to penetrate more effectively. Primer is often required by plumbing code and sometimes a purple colored primer (purple primer) is needed.

Our go to choice for pool install or pump piping was always Flexible clear cement due to its vibration resistence.
 
foster400 said:
Really PVC cleaner is basically the same as acetone which is clear also.
IIRC, primer is mostly MEK (methyl-ethyl ketone), which is different than acetone. MEK is what makes PVC primer the most foul-smelling (in my opinion) of any solvent-based product. Acetone would probably work in a pinch; as long as the PVC gets soft and tacky after application it would probably be OK.

As others have said, I'd just use the purple primer and then paint the whole works.
 

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MEK is such fun stuff, I once had a metal gallon can of the stuff stored on the shelf over my chest freezer 15 or so years ago. After a couple of years it ate through the bottom of the can and dripped onto the top of the freezer causing the paint to bubble up and come off. I still have the freezer (it is 21 years old, same age as my son, and still runs good, I think about replacing it, but know whatever I bought would not last as long), since then I have repainted it several times with appliance expoxy, but every couple of years the paint keeps coming off and rusting in the place where the MEK spilled.

Ike
 
bk406 said:
Might be ok, but I'd use primer. :goodjob:

Only on TFP could you have close to 15 posts and going on 2 pages for something as simple as "use primer and glue on PVC". :mrgreen:

Many pvc glues these days state "to use primer where required" which means "where antiquated codes have yet to catch up to current products".

I have done several rooms with (literally 1,000s of joints in them, and bad glue joints are rarely and issue (3 in 15 years). Can the guys using primer make those claims?

Sanding and beveling the joints is a little bit more work, but we get a better product from them. We also encounter less "ride out" that you get with primer(ed) joints that happens 30 seconds or so after the joint is assembled (because primer also thins the glue).

In ground we use primer because nobody cares if there is purple blobs everywhere.
 
Always Prime. Always. Older fittings and pipe should be cleaned first with Cleaner.

Lets not reinvent the wheel.

The dye in colored primer fades.

Sanding removes material. The glue is not a filler but rather is solvent based and literally melts two sections together before hardening, forming a weld. Deal with the 30 seconds of holding the pieces together. A 1/4 turn twist as you join the pieces is strongly recommended to ensure an even distribution of glue. Have a rag handy.

Clear primer is not sold in any HD or Lowes by me. I have to get it from my pool supply house. I prefer to use it above ground and colored underground.

Pool Tite, the blue glue, while it benefits from a "primered" area, doesn't need it since it is somewhat more aggressive than the the stuff the box stores carry. If I am in a tunnel under a deck, I may opt against the use of primer if I can as the fumes are strong.

I am 100% with racket on this. While racket may not have been here that long, I have known him from other forums and hold his opinions with the same regard as chem-geek's when it comes to pool services. He has, for far longer than me, maintained a selfless attitude towards helping others. The PMers know who and what I mean and what they should do.

Scott
 
Scott the sand paper (emory cloth) is used to scuff or.mechanically soften the pipe, and fittings. It pretty much does the same thing as the primer but without all the mess.

Try it sometime, ill guarantee you wont have any issues (at least none primer would have prevented). I use an avereage of 4-5 gallons of glue a month. I have this pipe fitting.stuff figured out.
 
I have this pipe fitting.stuff figured out.
I can see how sanding the joints would be effective but it has always been my understanding that the ONLY reason for coloring the primer purple (you can still get it clear here in NC) is so the inspector can SEE it has been done. I thought it was a code violation to NOT use primer.
 

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