In some areas you can find it being sold as a deicer. It is also used to increase the speed at which concrete sets up in cold weather. And if all else fails, pool stores sell it.
Newby Just Fired the Pool Man...What Now?
- Thread starter HowardL
- Start date
OK. Found out that I can order it with free shipping to be delivered to my local Ace Hardware store.
Now the real question. Pool calculator says I should add 666oz by weight, which is almost 42lbs. Now I know that you have cautioned not to add everything at once. So, how do I proceed? 5lbs at a time? 10lbs? 20lbs?
Any suggestions? Also, will this tend to remain stable once corrected, or will I need to add periodically? Thanks.
Howard
Now the real question. Pool calculator says I should add 666oz by weight, which is almost 42lbs. Now I know that you have cautioned not to add everything at once. So, how do I proceed? 5lbs at a time? 10lbs? 20lbs?
Any suggestions? Also, will this tend to remain stable once corrected, or will I need to add periodically? Thanks.
Howard
You need to dissolve it in a 5 gallon bucket of pool water and pour it in the pool. Keep in mind that it gets warm when dissolving so I'd do about 5 to 10 lbs at a time. You can go ahead and add all that the PC tells you to in the 5 gallon bucket increments.
Learned something about the "pool store" yesterday. I knew from looking online that I could get 50lbs calcium chloride for about $25, plus another $23 to ship it. Checked out the local pool store and asked their price. They had 45lbs for $65.
Told them the price was high and gave him the prices as noted above...about $48 delivered. Immediately he said "I'll take $20 off". While I appreciate the flexibility, I now know just how high those pool store margins must be.
Added the calcium chloride and let it mix overnight. Here are my 7am readings this morning...
Water Temp 68
FC = 1 (I know...I'm late on adding more chlorine)
CC = 0
pH = 7.6
TA = 90
CH = 280
CYA = 70
Pool calculator tells me a) add 187 oz 6% bleach, b) 10 oz muriatic acid, c) 56 oz volume baking soda. CSI =-0.11.
Any suggestions or thoughts? Thanks.
Howard
Told them the price was high and gave him the prices as noted above...about $48 delivered. Immediately he said "I'll take $20 off". While I appreciate the flexibility, I now know just how high those pool store margins must be.
Added the calcium chloride and let it mix overnight. Here are my 7am readings this morning...
Water Temp 68
FC = 1 (I know...I'm late on adding more chlorine)
CC = 0
pH = 7.6
TA = 90
CH = 280
CYA = 70
Pool calculator tells me a) add 187 oz 6% bleach, b) 10 oz muriatic acid, c) 56 oz volume baking soda. CSI =-0.11.
Any suggestions or thoughts? Thanks.
Howard
With those numbers, all you need is bleach/liquid chlorine to maintain FC between (minimum) 5ppm and (target) 8ppm.
ETA: I'm getting 436 ozs 6% bleach (3 gallons & 2 qts) to get you from 1ppm to 8ppm FC. What numbers did you put in the Pool Calculator?
ETA: I'm getting 436 ozs 6% bleach (3 gallons & 2 qts) to get you from 1ppm to 8ppm FC. What numbers did you put in the Pool Calculator?
I just used the default calculator TFP target of 4ppm. Are you saying that I should aim for higher FC?
Thanks.
Howard
Thanks.
Howard
If you have the CYA level set to 70 ppm in The Pool Calculator, then it says the "Normal" range is 5-10 ppm FC. Note that the calculator uses the "Now" CYA value rather than the "Target". The Chlorine / CYA Chart also gives the minimum of 5 ppm FC. So I don't know where you got 4 ppm.HowardL said:
You can't use the defaults in the Pool Calc. You have to enter your now numbers in the Now column and your target numbers in the Target column.
With your numbers entered, all I get that you need is some chlorine.
With your numbers entered, all I get that you need is some chlorine.
OK. I know I'm making progress, but I also know that I am now getting confused about target levels. I have noted NOT to use the defaults in the Pool Calculator. But how about these defaults?
pool-school/recommended_levels
FC 3ppm - 7ppm
pH 7.5 - 7.8
TA 70 - 90+
CG 250 - 350
CYS 30 - 50
Are these good values for me to use, or are there other recommended levels? Sorry to be dense about this, but I am starting to feel more comfortable with the testing, so making sure that I am evaluating the tests properly sounds like a good idea to me. Thanks.
Howard
pool-school/recommended_levels
FC 3ppm - 7ppm
pH 7.5 - 7.8
TA 70 - 90+
CG 250 - 350
CYS 30 - 50
Are these good values for me to use, or are there other recommended levels? Sorry to be dense about this, but I am starting to feel more comfortable with the testing, so making sure that I am evaluating the tests properly sounds like a good idea to me. Thanks.
Howard
the FC number depends on you CYA number- CYA at 30, FC of 3 is good; CYA at 50, neet probably FC 5+; chart says min 4, so you need to target 6-7 to maintain minimum throughout the day
Personally I'm a middle of the road kinda guy when it comes to "MY" target values (except for CH, I have zero).
When I did your setup in the PC I used;
FC = 7
pH = 7.6
TA = 80
CH = 280
CYA = 70
When I did your setup in the PC I used;
FC = 7
pH = 7.6
TA = 80
CH = 280
CYA = 70
The recommended levels you stated above are for plaster with bleach and, yes, they are the recommended levels for your pool; however, since your CYA is 70 (above recommended levels, but still controllable) you must adjust/increase your FC levels accordingly.HowardL said:
When I gave you the FC min5 & target 8 earlier, it came from the Chlorine/CYA chart. See the link in my sig. It is very simple and is a quick and accurate reference to target your FC. You can use the chart or the Pool Calculator.
You are doing a great job getting a handle on things
HowardL said:
Hi Howard,
I googled it online. Are you referring to: Qik Joe 50lb Hot Stuff Calcium Chloride Flake Ice & Snow Melter? It sells for $21.99. If so, I will order it through our local Ace Hardware. Thanks.
Let me make this easy...
PH levels between 7.6 - 8.0 is perfect. I wouldn't let it get under 7.4 or above 8.0.
CYA level at 70 is just right. Keep your CYA between 30-80.
Keep your Alkalinity between 100-120, and usually your PH will stay perfectly within range.
And i would keep your Free Chlorine level at 3.0 all the time.
Don't be scared to use 3'' Tablets, just keep an eye on your chemicals.
Seems like you're dialing in your chemicals. Just stay on top of your numbers. I have gotten so many new customers who took care of the pool themselves and they did a good job until they got lazy or didn't know what they were doing in regards to the chemicals, and got into trouble and had to hire or re-hire a professional.
PH levels between 7.6 - 8.0 is perfect. I wouldn't let it get under 7.4 or above 8.0.
CYA level at 70 is just right. Keep your CYA between 30-80.
Keep your Alkalinity between 100-120, and usually your PH will stay perfectly within range.
And i would keep your Free Chlorine level at 3.0 all the time.
Don't be scared to use 3'' Tablets, just keep an eye on your chemicals.
Seems like you're dialing in your chemicals. Just stay on top of your numbers. I have gotten so many new customers who took care of the pool themselves and they did a good job until they got lazy or didn't know what they were doing in regards to the chemicals, and got into trouble and had to hire or re-hire a professional.
CYA high to start with and sure to go up due to the use of tablets, combined with FC too low; a perfect recipe for getting algae,ThePoolNinja said:
I have several pools with CYA levels which are "high" at 70-80, esp Salt pools, and never have any problems with algae. Yes according to the "book" those numbers are high, but from my experience in the field, it's quite alright. Of course i also have a lot of pools with a CYA level around 30. Just depends on the pool, contaminants, location, filtration, etc.
A salt pool is just fine at 70-80. That said, 70-80 CYA as a starting point in a trichlor pool is too high, especially in dry areas where there is reduced rain water dilution. For a manually chlorinated pool (using liquid chlorine) CYA of 70 requires FC of 5-8ppm...3ppm with CYA at 70 in a non-swg pool is an invitation for algae.
Re; Kal2002...Not sure which exact product that it was but I found out that the one that I wanted was no longer offered online so I had to buy at the pool store.
Guys, I really appreciate the helpful and knowledgeable support. Now that the monsoon rains have passed and the pool is getting full sun all day I am finding it much more of a chore to keep my FC levels up. Here are today's 7am numbers...
Water Temp = 78
FC = 4.5
CC = 0
pH = 7.4
I guess I will add some more chlorine today.
I am getting to the point where the routine of testing/adjusting/brushing/backwashing is much more comfortable. So I guess the question to ask now is "What don't I know that is going to reach out and bite me?" That is, what should I be concerned about that is really not even on my radar right now?
Thanks again for all of the tips and suggestions.
Howard
Guys, I really appreciate the helpful and knowledgeable support. Now that the monsoon rains have passed and the pool is getting full sun all day I am finding it much more of a chore to keep my FC levels up. Here are today's 7am numbers...
Water Temp = 78
FC = 4.5
CC = 0
pH = 7.4
I guess I will add some more chlorine today.
I am getting to the point where the routine of testing/adjusting/brushing/backwashing is much more comfortable. So I guess the question to ask now is "What don't I know that is going to reach out and bite me?" That is, what should I be concerned about that is really not even on my radar right now?
Thanks again for all of the tips and suggestions.
Howard
There are too many possibilities that are all extremely unlikely to run through them all individually.
The key thing is to keep a close eye on what the water looks like. If it loses it's sparkle you know something is wrong, and if you catch it early like that, while the water is still clear but not perfect, it is usually very easy to fix. If you wait till the pool turns green you will have a lot more work.
The key thing is to keep a close eye on what the water looks like. If it loses it's sparkle you know something is wrong, and if you catch it early like that, while the water is still clear but not perfect, it is usually very easy to fix. If you wait till the pool turns green you will have a lot more work.