lite 2 stripped hole for drain plug

botanica37

0
LifeTime Supporter
Feb 3, 2009
70
Oakton, VA
One of the holes is completely stripped - I have no idea why or how that happened. What are my options for repair, would helicoil work? Or just trying to re-thread the hole and get a bigger drain plug? I looked at the diagram and it looks like this is part of the heat exchange so replacing it will be $$ option...

Thank you!
 
More info, please.

What material is stripped? Is there plenty of material left should you decide to enlarge and re-tap? Is it a pipe end, where perhaps a rubber cap and hose clamp could be installed?

I've used helicoils and time-serts at work, and they never work as well as they should. The drill will walk, or it may not go in perfectly straight. Even with a good hole and loctite on the insert, many times it unscrews the next time the thing gets removed. The other big problem is that threaded inserts are steel. Plain steel in pool water means rust, electrolysis, and general trouble.

How 'bout a picture?
 
From the rust, I'd say it had a steel plug in it in the past.

I'd really examine things close and see if the stripped off threads came from the heater, the plug, or both. Why? Because if the majority of the threads are left in the heater, I'd be able to chase them with the right sized tap. Then I'd hunt for a plastic or brass drain plug - something soft - coat the threads with teflon paste and screw it in. Then keep fingers crossed and turn things on to leak check it.

If the threads are torn out of the heater, which is more likely as copper and brass are both softer than steel, there's nothing to lose by going up a size. If you destroy it in the process, it's no loss, because it's useless right now anyway. Ask around, you probably know some handy man who has a set of pipe taps. A reamer or the right size drill might be harder to find.

If you're competant with wrenches, but don't feel like trying the drill and tap, dismantle the thing and take the stripped part to a few auto parts stores that have a machine shop. They're usually pretty good at fixing stripped threads. Someone would probably take on the challenge.
 
I have seen this happen many times. I typically do one of 2 things to try to remedy it.

1. Lowes typically sells 1/4" npt pipe taps. Try re-tapping the hole with this one first. You may have to put the plug in further, or get a 1/4" nipple thread it into the header then get a 1/4" cap ( or plug in coupling). ]
put
2. Drill and retap the the header to 3/8" npt and put a 3/8" plug in it.

Scott, another trick is to put some pool lube in the hole to keep it from corroding.
 
The exact same thing happened to me last week. I have the same heater.

See my post.

http://www.troublefreepool.com/pool-heater-drain-plug-bolt-sheared-t30369.html

I had the gas company that installed the heater come over to look at it. They were able to retap it so a new drain plug could be installed. This worked like a charm. Started the pool up and no leaks where drain plug hole was repaired. The repairman said if it couldn't be retapped, the manifold in the heater would have had to be replaced (part cost around $220 in Canada).

At the end of the day, it cost me $99 for a service call to get the repair done. If you are handy, I'm it can be done without calling someone.

Good Luck!
 
I managed to get the bolt in for now, but I will follow up Richards advice to go up a size as soon as I can locate the right tool. I did leave the holes open during the winter, and there was a little bit of rust...but I have no idea how did the threads stripped completely, especially since I am opening and closing the pool. One would think that somehow the heater should have been built better?

darrenw: I did look at your post and wondered what are the odds :) since I have the tools to deal with a broken bolt it figures that my issue will require tools I don't have yet, our HD didn't have pipe taps.
 
Good Day All-

I trust you are well.

I have this same issue, do not have the tools for retapping, think I could just JB Weld the screw in there and it would hold? Figure I can use the ones on the other side to drain in the fall.

Best regards, Tony
 

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This is for anyone with the same common issue. The first thing I tried was chassing the threads with 1/4" npt tap. The threads were stripped and the plug did not hold. Next I bought a 3/8" npt tap and 9/16 drill bit. Drilled out the opening then carefully re-tapped to 3/8" making sure the tap stayed straight. Also made sure I did not bottom out the tap. NPT taps are tappered so "Do Not" go all the way in leave some threads exposed on the tap. I went half way in with the tap at first then hand screwed the plug and made sure I was getting 4 turns by hand before I tightened by wrench. I then Tweaked the the plug by going a little further down. Worked great! Now I have to make sure they don't strip again. Going to use pipe compound on the threads and leave plugs in over the winter after I blow out the heater.
 
Interesting, this thread. The manifold, I believe, is cast iron while the plugs are a much softer brass material. Can't see how the manifold would get stripped and not just the plug? Maybe people are using non-tapered stainless plugs? Or maybe the threads are rusting out over the winter when the plugs are out?
 
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