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Thread: Pump and filter fixed and running, now working on water

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    Pump and filter fixed and running, now working on water

    If you've been following my story, you know we moved the pump and filter equipment. That equipment was down nearly 4 weeks while this went on. While all this was happening, I got my TF test kit and posted numbers that were decent. The CH was high, nearly 550. Some of you mentioned draining half the pool, which on researching I found out a way to do it - I was going to let the chemicals mostly leach out so I could dump in part of our yard where this had obviously been done before (we are on septic, this is city regs). When I researched that, it turns out that I had to fill out a variance for our water service (didn't know about this) which allows us to refill the pool once every 5 yrs and not get charged in their Tier 3 or higher rates. Because I just found out about this, I sent in the variance this week. Unfortunately, I'm not going to be able to do this for another 3 weeks or so.

    I measured my numbers this morning, except CH.
    FC 4.5 (I dumped in a bunch of chlorine yesterday - have yellow stuff on the walls (algae?))
    CC 0
    Ph 8.2
    TA 60
    CYA less than 20 (I could still see the dot and ran out of space in the tube)

    Entering this information in the pool calculator, I see what I need to do - muriatic acid to bring down the Ph so the chlorine is stable etc. The TA needs to be increased from what I read and also need to raise the CYA, correct? What order do I do all this? Is there one item better to increase first and then measure again?

    As usual, thanks for any help
    Anne
    Temecula, CA
    16X32 (approx) 20k gal, DE filter, IG, plaster/pebble with diving board & slide
    Whisperflo pump; Pentair SMBW 4000 Series filter... that's all I know! Still learning....

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    Isaac-1's Avatar
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    Re: Pump and filter fixed and running, now working on water

    Do the pH first, CYA is slow to add, and can take a week or more to show up on test, so be careful and don't over shoot, you don't want to be draining water again. Yellow could just be pollen this time of year, if you can't run your filter it is probably a good idea to scrub your pool as often as possible to keep biofilm from forming and giving algae a place to grow..

    Ike
    Indoor 20x40 35,000 gallon vinyl pool with 1.5 HP 2 speed Jandy FloPro pump, Hayward EC75 Perflex DE filter, 11 4x12 Techno-Solis solar panels w/ Aquasolar controller, Aquabot Turbo T Robot Cleaner. Also LMI metering chlorine dispenser pump and HotSpring Jetsetter
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    Re: Pump and filter fixed and running, now working on water

    Hi, Anne,

    1. Yep, lower your pH first.

    2. Since your pump's been down so long, the yellow may well be mustard algae. Is it currently clinging on the walls but comes off easily and disperses into a cloud when you brush it? Is it more noticeable on a side of the pool that may be a little shadier than the other sides? Let's identify that "yellow" issue before you go any further.
    Dave S.
    42k vinyl and concrete pool, 1.5hp pump, 140gpm filter
    TFTestkits , PoolMath , Pool School

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    Re: Pump and filter fixed and running, now working on water

    Hi Dave,

    You are exactly right about the behavior - clings to the walls, comes off when brushed - cloudy water I thought might be the fact that I am running the pressure side cleaner and it's moving stuff around.

    Its not really on a "Shady" side per se - the whole place gets full sun - but as the sun is to the south probably it's not getting full on sun right now - also on the end by my diving board which probably gets full on morning sun but not afternoon. If that makes any difference.

    Doesn't seem to be on the other two sides.

    Thanks!
    Anne
    Temecula, CA
    16X32 (approx) 20k gal, DE filter, IG, plaster/pebble with diving board & slide
    Whisperflo pump; Pentair SMBW 4000 Series filter... that's all I know! Still learning....

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    frustratedpoolmom's Avatar
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    Re: Pump and filter fixed and running, now working on water

    Adjust the PH, use acid. Once it's where you want it, use Baking Soda to raise the TA to about 70-80. Then calculate enough CYA to raise it to 30-40 and use the "sock method" to add the CYA. Once your PH is in range, you can begin to shock the pool, just in case this is mustard algae. For now your "shock level" of FC is 10-12 - once you add the CYA you will need to raise the FC shock level accordingly, refer to the CYA chart. Achieve shock level and HOLD IT THERE, testing hourly and adding more bleach if necessary. Then do an overnight FC loss test, and see if the FC is holding. If it's not, you have to keep shocking the pool until the FC passes the overnight loss test. Hope that makes sense.

    So: first, PH. Second, start shocking. While you are shocking (just don't add chemicals simulaneously together) you can adjust the TA with baking soda (third) and (fourth, increase your CYA - just remember that as your CYA goes up, so does your shock level for FC.

    Post back if you need clarification.
    Helpful links: Pool School; CYA/Chlorine Chart
    24' round AG pool, 52" high, Raypak heater; Waterway 2 spd Pump;
    150 Sq ft. Clearwater Cartridge Filter; Former and DISSATISFIED "Pool Frog" owner
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    Re: Pump and filter fixed and running, now working on water

    Thanks all. How soon should I test after adding acid?

    Anne
    Temecula, CA
    16X32 (approx) 20k gal, DE filter, IG, plaster/pebble with diving board & slide
    Whisperflo pump; Pentair SMBW 4000 Series filter... that's all I know! Still learning....

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    Mod Squad zea3's Avatar
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    Re: Pump and filter fixed and running, now working on water

    Give about 1/2 hour to an hour with the pump running to mix the acid well with the water.
    TFP Moderator
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    Re: Pump and filter fixed and running, now working on water

    Adding a little to what FPM and zea# have said, your description makes me reasonably convinced you have mustard algae.

    It is important to understand that the mustard algae shock values are guidelines.....not absolutes. The fact that you attain those levels does not automatically guarantee the algae will instantly leap out of your pool nor does staying a little below the suggested value mean that you will have absolutely no affect on the algae.

    What you should take away from those suggested guidelines is the realization that you have a solid (but winnable) battle on your hands and you will have to be diligent and consistent to rid your pool of mustard algae.

    You should spend some time reading more about the subject in Pool School and prepare yourself by having plenty of chlorine on hand. It may take you more than just a day or two to pass the Overnite loss test so be prepared for your pool to consume lots of chlorine.
    Dave S.
    42k vinyl and concrete pool, 1.5hp pump, 140gpm filter
    TFTestkits , PoolMath , Pool School

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    Re: Pump and filter fixed and running, now working on water

    Waited a little longer than 1/2 hour with pump running and I'm down to 7.5! Chlorine is still up too even though I have not added any since last night.

    Now that Ph is looking good though, I'm a little confused by the advice. FPM said raising the TA with baking soda, then working on the CYA but in the next sentence said first Ph then chlorine. I have about 12 gal of chlorine at the ready but will have to head out to Winco (saw a big bag of baking soda on sale there) to get that started as well as stabilizer? for working on the CYA.

    Should I throw in the chlorine tonight even though I probably won't be able to get out for the baking soda or stabilizer?

    Thanks for all the great advice. I will do more reading on the mustard algae - thought it was one of those things that once you get, it's tough to get rid of but glad to hear it could be winnable.

    Anne
    Temecula, CA
    16X32 (approx) 20k gal, DE filter, IG, plaster/pebble with diving board & slide
    Whisperflo pump; Pentair SMBW 4000 Series filter... that's all I know! Still learning....

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    Re: Pump and filter fixed and running, now working on water

    Put in some chlorine this evening, not a whole lot, perhaps 2 or 3 ppm.

    For the PH and TA, adjusting one will change the other a little. If your numbers are still the same as posted originally, you should lower the PH to around 7.5, then retest the TA and raise it if needed.

    It is better if you deal with the PH and TA before chlorine, but don't leave the pool for very long without adding some chlorine. Ie, if you don't get around to working on the PH, add some chlorine regardless.

    CYA can be added any time, not as high a priority as other things but no harm in getting started.
    19K gal, vinyl, 1/2 HP WhisperFlo pump, 200 sqft cartridge filter, AutoPilot Digital SWG, Dolphin Dynamic cleaning robot
    Creator of PoolMath and Pool Calculator. Other handy links: Support this site, TF Test Kits, Pool School

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    Re: Pump and filter fixed and running, now working on water

    Of course, I re-read FPM and that time read shock to 10-12ppm, which I proceeded to do. Then read Jason's comment. Argh!

    I measured the TA and it is still way below 20. I guess I'll be heading out first thing to get the baking soda. I'll post the chlorine levels tomorrow morning. Thanks all!
    Temecula, CA
    16X32 (approx) 20k gal, DE filter, IG, plaster/pebble with diving board & slide
    Whisperflo pump; Pentair SMBW 4000 Series filter... that's all I know! Still learning....

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    Re: Pump and filter fixed and running, now working on water

    Don't worry about it. She read more of your situation than I read through, so I could easily have made a mistake. And either way, about the worse thing that might happen is that the chlorine might be wasted, not a big deal.
    19K gal, vinyl, 1/2 HP WhisperFlo pump, 200 sqft cartridge filter, AutoPilot Digital SWG, Dolphin Dynamic cleaning robot
    Creator of PoolMath and Pool Calculator. Other handy links: Support this site, TF Test Kits, Pool School

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    Re: Pump and filter fixed and running, now working on water

    Hi all, hope you are enjoying your Saturday! I measured FC and Ph this morning. Ph is back up to 7.8 so I added the recommended acid to bring it back down. FC is at 8ppm - I was aiming for 10ppm so I guess there was some loss. CC is still 0. I'm heading out to get the baking soda and stabilizer now so I have it on hand. Question, should I work on getting the FC back up or work on the TA? My understanding is that it's better to add the chlorine at night so it doesn't get evaporated out so should I focus on the TA during the day?

    One last question, not on the topic of chemicals but related I guess. My filter was leaking when I first replaced the lid and re-ran the pump. I have a DE filter. To take the lid off again, I turned off the pump, moved the handle to backwash and some DE and water came out (the pump was not on, again just wanted to take off the lid and re-seat it). When we got it fixed, I wasn't sure how much DE to add again - It was not a true backwash since I didn't run the pump, just let the water out of the filter. Any ideas how much DE I need to re-add - 80% seemed like too much since I didn't rinse to running clear water. Thanks,
    Temecula, CA
    16X32 (approx) 20k gal, DE filter, IG, plaster/pebble with diving board & slide
    Whisperflo pump; Pentair SMBW 4000 Series filter... that's all I know! Still learning....

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    Mod Squad zea3's Avatar
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    Re: Pump and filter fixed and running, now working on water

    If only a little DE came out then just add about 2 scoops of DE to replenish the filter.
    TFP Moderator
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    Re: Pump and filter fixed and running, now working on water

    Thanks and Happy Easter~!

    Did the overnight FC loss test. Lost only .5 ppm - that's good right? Ph is holding at 7.5 but TA is still low. The water looks pretty good after doing this for a bit but the yellow stuff is still on the two sides.

    Should I shock or TA at this point? For baking soda addition, I read the instructions on the site. Do I keep the pump running after adding it?

    Thanks,
    Anne
    Temecula, CA
    16X32 (approx) 20k gal, DE filter, IG, plaster/pebble with diving board & slide
    Whisperflo pump; Pentair SMBW 4000 Series filter... that's all I know! Still learning....

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    Mod Squad zea3's Avatar
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    Re: Pump and filter fixed and running, now working on water

    Did you have any CC this morning? If they are .5 or less then you are ready to work on the TA. Run the pump at least an hour after adding any chemicals. The yellow stuff may be pollen. Do you only see it around the waterline?
    TFP Moderator
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    Vogue 21' round AG, Pentair 1 hp 2 speed pump, 36 sq ft DE filter, Hayward S180T 150# sand filter, Houston, Texas
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    frustratedpoolmom's Avatar
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    Re: Pump and filter fixed and running, now working on water

    IMHO, based on the situation you have been dealing with, you should be running the filter 24/7 anyway....fyi, that is what we recommend when shocking the pool.

    The reason you need to bring up your TA is that very low TA can cause the PH to drift wildly in either direction... it's not "critical" so don't stress about it or anything....and you can do it at anytime regardless of shocking or adding CYA - adjusting with the Baking Soda won't have any affect on either of those steps.

    I'm with Zea, is this yellow stuff clinging to the walls below the waterline?
    Helpful links: Pool School; CYA/Chlorine Chart
    24' round AG pool, 52" high, Raypak heater; Waterway 2 spd Pump;
    150 Sq ft. Clearwater Cartridge Filter; Former and DISSATISFIED "Pool Frog" owner
    http://www.PerfectlyClearPoolService.com

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    Re: Pump and filter fixed and running, now working on water

    Yes, the yellow stuff is below the water line.

    CC was 0 - sorry forgot to post that.

    24/7 on the pump... ooh, tough as its quite loud! Neighbors might complain at night (it isn't covered in yet, just moved). Anyhow, I'll do the best I can with that.

    Thanks!
    Temecula, CA
    16X32 (approx) 20k gal, DE filter, IG, plaster/pebble with diving board & slide
    Whisperflo pump; Pentair SMBW 4000 Series filter... that's all I know! Still learning....

  19. Back To Top    #19

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    Re: Pump and filter fixed and running, now working on water

    Hmm. Evening measurements after adding baking soda (mid day) and chlorine 30 min later...

    FC 7.0
    CC 0
    TA 60
    Ph (??- it's VERRRRRY red, not pink which seems to be the color of the highest Ph but red - more in the shade of the 7.5 but so deep red that it doesn't seem right).... any ideas on that one?

    TA didn't move much with the 5 lbs of baking soda. I'm thinking that I added too little or I measured once at 50 and then at 60 and maybe I put the wrong number in the pool calculator)

    Water is very clear (so clear I can see the pile of dirt (I'm pretty sure it's dirt since we have a pile next to the pool due to moving the pool equipment) at the bottom quite well.
    Temecula, CA
    16X32 (approx) 20k gal, DE filter, IG, plaster/pebble with diving board & slide
    Whisperflo pump; Pentair SMBW 4000 Series filter... that's all I know! Still learning....

  20. Back To Top    #20

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    Re: Pump and filter fixed and running, now working on water

    Ugh, 6:30am. Overnight FC test

    FC 6.5 (actually smells like chlorine a bit this morning which is weird)
    CC 0
    Ph (still reaaalllly red - again if I'm looking for shade similar - it might be between 7.5 and 7.8 - but if i am reading too much into it, it's really high)
    I can check more if you like but thought these were the important ones at this point.

    I'm starting to wonder if I have the wrong amount of water for the pool calculator because I add the necessary chlorine and I haven't hit the FC I am aiming for.... at all.

    Thanks
    Anne
    Temecula, CA
    16X32 (approx) 20k gal, DE filter, IG, plaster/pebble with diving board & slide
    Whisperflo pump; Pentair SMBW 4000 Series filter... that's all I know! Still learning....

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