Goldline Valve Actuator GVA-24 Wiring Diagram

looper

0
May 6, 2010
62
Does anyone have a diagram indicating what pin does what on the 3-pin connector? I am installing one of these to automate my solar panels, but instead of buying an actual pool controller, I am going to integrate it with my home automation, so I need to interface the actuator with relays. The manual did not include this info. Thanks!
 
Yep, that's what I thought, and that manual seems to confirm it (since this actuator is compatible with most controllers, using the same plug). Just gave it a shot, and it seems to work. Thanks!
 
Just one more note. You can't connect more than one to any given contactor. It says in the manual "do not double lug switch wires". I currently have two double lugged to a single switch attached to my 24V pwr supply and if they are not 100% in sync, they will oscillate and go beyond the internal limit switch. My next project is to run two additional wires to my remote switch (double pole so it will be separated from the other actuator), because when they run over, all kinds of bad things can happen.

Now I see you are just using one for a solar control. But FYI anyway.
 
they will oscillate and go beyond the internal limit switch.

1) It is a switch that kills the power to the motor. So this is not possible, unless the switch has failed.

2) It shouldn't matter if you have one or fifty connected together, as long as you have enough power, and wire size to handle it.

I believe they don't want you to lug them together because of the way the control systems are sized and fused.

For clarification. If you had them on two different sets of contacts, fed from the same source. As soon as both contacts close, it is electrically the same as if they were both tied together on the same contact.

Hope that makes sense.
 
Just-a-PB said:
1) It is a switch that kills the power to the motor. So this is not possible, unless the switch has failed.

No, if you draw out the schematic for 2 actuators connected to one power source, you will see when one limit switch goes off, power is supplied to the other actuator. When one limit switch kills power, the other limit switch is closed. I talked to an engineer at Jandy because I had one actuator going 90 degrees, and the other only 45 degrees. The 45 one would sit and oscillate until the 90 reached the end, and several times would just go beyond the limit.

Just-a-PB said:
For clarification. If you had them on two different sets of contacts, fed from the same source. As soon as both contacts close, it is electrically the same as if they were both tied together on the same contact.

Yes, I think if you had each on a separate contactor, that would work. But then you need power for the contactor and so are not really saving yourself any wires. Plus, you'll need a contactor for each direction for each actuator.

My two actuators have no contactors. I have power and a double pole double throw switch, but wired both actuators to one side to save two wire runs and had the problem. After talking to the Jandy engineer, he confirmed what I thought - I'll need to run a separate pair of wires - common can be shared - but he was not at all concerned about having 2 actuators sharing the same power supply. Just can't let the switching wires of any two touch.

Hope that makes sense.[/quote]
 
lborne, no that doesn't make sense. The actuators should be wired in parallel, and if the wire size is large enough they will be fine. If you wire them in series you might have the problems you describe.
 
JasonLion said:
lborne, no that doesn't make sense. The actuators should be wired in parallel, and if the wire size is large enough they will be fine. If you wire them in series you might have the problems you describe.

Jason, if you wire them in series, then as soon as one limit switch opened, it would cut power to the other actuator in the series. You must wire in parallel. But in that instance, when one limit switch in one actuator opens, the other is still closed, and so power diverts through the second actuator into the first causing it to start in the other direction. There is nothing wrong with my actuators, yet one will oscillate while waiting for the second one to reach its limit. Both are wired in parallel to a single switch.
 
That isn't what is supposed to happen. The second actuator should only reverse if the polarity is reversed, which shouldn't be possible regardless of what the first actuator is doing. If the wire is too thin you would get voltage fluctuations, which could cause one of the actuators to stall part way through and then finish after the other one finishes, but it should never reverse/oscillate.

Is there an easy way for you to try it with heavier wire?
 

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Jason - the problem is due to the internal limit switches. In a static situation, one limit switch is open and the other is closed on both actuators. When power is applied to the closed one, and the motor begins to turn, the open limit switches close. Now you have a potential feeback circuit when there are 2 motors connected.

The feedback is due to the induction of the motor and should not have anything to do with wire size. However, I am not an EE, so don't know this 100%. I know this is a typical problem with AC motors and feedback control loops in industrial applications.

Here is the email I got from Joeseph Turney at Zodiac Pool Systems when I asked about this problem:

"Also, if you have two actuators set up on the same switch and they're not adjusted to stop at the same time, the actuator that has already reached position will backup a little and continue to toggle until the other actuator is in position. Hope this helps!"
 
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