Sustain Pool Chemicals

[scuba jim]

I am new to this site and new to an IG pool. Installed last year. I have been an AG pool owner for many years and basically used the BBB method (I do use more chlorine tabs in filter than actual bleach though). The IG pool is 14 x 28 with a vinyl liner ~14,000 gal. Gas heated, with a cartridge filter system. I live in Connecticut (hello my New England brethren ). My close friend has a new 24' round above ground pool near me and he started using Sustain pool chemicals last year and said it was a cake walk. Crystal clear all year and very little to no maintenance. His filter is DE I think. Does anyone have any feedback/comments/history with Sustain. I saw a couple posts where individual were switching from it and I have seen very little on the web. Thanks in advance! :-D

 

[crookm11]

Welcome to TFP!

You have come to the right place to ask questions. I have no knowledge of those chemicals but someone should be along to help out.

 

[susa]

read also this

 

[chem geek]

and this.

The MSDS's for Sustain® 3-inch Blue Tabs and Sustain® Energizer Tabs indicate that they are both > 65% Cal-Hypo. The MSDS for Sustain® Summer Shield says that it is proprietary, but the toxicology data is identical to that of Cyanuric Acid (CYA) though with a neutral pH this is more likely to be a slurry of sodium cyanurate in a brine solution. [EDIT] See this post for more up-to-date info. [END-EDIT]

Using Cal-Hypo tabs is generally better than using Trichlor tabs in terms of side effects because one generally has more leeway with Calcium Hardness (CH), especially in vinyl pools and in areas with low CH fill water. For every 10 ppm FC added by Trichlor, it increases CYA by 6 ppm. For every 10 ppm FC added by Cal-Hypo, it increases CH by at least 7 ppm. However, a CYA level getting to 100 ppm or more is a problem while having the CH increase by 100 ppm or more generally is not as much of a problem -- going from 300 to 400 ppm CH only increases the saturation index by 0.1 units. Note that Cal-Hypo tabs tend to fall apart as they get smaller and their binders tend to leave residue.

 

[barnyard]

One word ------- E-X-P-E-N-S-I-V-E-!!!!!!
I used that system for awhile.
It is easy, but I couldn't justify the expense. Once you buy the bucket of pucks, the summer shield(x2/year) and the little pellet things - I forgot what they call them, but I figured they were just what they would call shock, it added up, and for my pool that didn't last the summer and I would have to buy more. I guess with a vinyl pool it is the least harmful of all of the other systems other than what you would learn here, but it comes at a big price. I guess it all comes down to what you want to do and what you want to spend. I will admit that my pool stayed nice and clear though using that stuff.
I even tried to find the stuff cheaper on-line, but with no success ....... then I found this site and haven't given it a thought since then. I know last year I saved a bunch of cash by not going with he sustain system.

 

[scuba jim]

and this.

The MSDS's for Sustain® 3-inch Blue Tabs and Sustain® Energizer Tabs indicate that they are both > 65% Cal-Hypo. The MSDS for Sustain® Summer Shield says that it is proprietary, but the toxicology data is identical to that of Cyanuric Acid (CYA) though with a neutral pH this is more likely to be a slurry of sodium cyanurate in a brine solution.

Using Cal-Hypo tabs is generally better than using Trichlor tabs in terms of side effects because one generally has more leeway with Calcium Hardness (CH), especially in vinyl pools and in areas with low CH fill water. For every 10 ppm FC added by Trichlor, it increases CYA by 6 ppm. For every 10 ppm FC added by Cal-Hypo, it increases CH by at least 7 ppm. However, a CYA level getting to 100 ppm or more is a problem while having the CH increase by 100 ppm or more generally is not as much of a problem -- going from 300 to 400 ppm CH only increases the saturation index by 0.1 units. Note that Cal-Hypo tabs tend to fall apart as they get smaller and their binders tend to leave residue.

Well after reading Pool School, a few times, it makes sense on what your stating. I do thank you for that. It does appear that the BBB method is the simplest method to avoid problems with an increase in the CYA and it's much cheaper to boot Understanding the chemical process is obviously the goal to a clear, healthy pool.