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Thread: Testing tap water on my new Pool.

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    Testing tap water on my new Pool.

    This is a new pool no chemicals have ever been added to it. And I want to only use the BBB method.
    My test results of the city tap water that is in the pool.(Sample taken at elbow depth)
    PH 7.5
    TA 100
    CH 120

    I did not test FC, CYA because the city water had been in the pool for a month before I tested it.

    1st question is: Should I test for CYA in my city tap water from the pool?

    2nd question: Should I add the CYA and let dissolve before adding any chlorine? (I am thinking about using 30ppm CYA)

    3rd question:We have a month until people start swimming in their pool in my area.The water temp in my pool is 60 degrees. What chemicals/tests are effected by colder water temps? I know water for CYA test must be warmed to 70 temp before testing. Any other chemicals or tests that are effected by cold water?

    4th question: I am using a liquidator it needs PH 7.2-7.6, TA 80-100 (My numbers are at the high in of that range.) Should I go ahead and add acid to lower both PH(To 7.0) and TA and then aerate to bring the PH back up to 7.3?

    I have been reading TFP this past winter, it has been a great help. It has helped me with what equipment to buy, chemicals to use, and helpful tips to install the pool.

    Thanks for all the helpful info.
    27Ft Alum. AGP (17K gal.), 3/4 HP 2 Speed Pentair Dynamo Pump, Pentair SD80 Sand Dollar with Clear Pro Tech (350 Pound sand capacity)(1/4 pea gravel, 3/4 sand, cup DE media after backwash), 8 gal. Liquidator with 3/8 upgrade, BBB method, 2000 ppm Salt, 50 ppm Borates, TF100 Test Kit (One Page Instrustions) (Ext. Directions), Use PoolSkim for a skimmer, when using a automatic (suction side) cleaner. Search TFP for Pool School, poolcalculator.com, Chlorine/CYA Chart, Pump Basics, Hydraulics-101, Helpful Tips

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    frustratedpoolmom's Avatar
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    Re: Testing tap water on my new Pool.

    Don't test for CYA.

    You can add the CYA (via sock method) simultaneously as you are adding chlorine. Alternatively, you can use tablets in a floater to raise CYA slowly over the next month while adding chlorine, since it's cold out the FC should be able to keep up. That's up to you, however. CYA and tablets are slightly acidic, and will cause the PH and TA to drop with use.

    I wouldn't worry about that tho - the PH and TA are fine at the levels you posted.
    Helpful links: Pool School; CYA/Chlorine Chart
    24' round AG pool, 52" high, Raypak heater; Waterway 2 spd Pump;
    150 Sq ft. Clearwater Cartridge Filter; Former and DISSATISFIED "Pool Frog" owner
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    Mod Squad JohnT's Avatar
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    Re: Testing tap water on my new Pool.

    Quote Originally Posted by Strictly BBB
    This is a new pool no chemicals have ever been added to it. And I want to only use the BBB method.
    My test results of the city tap water that is in the pool.(Sample taken at elbow depth)
    PH 7.5
    TA 100
    CH 120


    Quote Originally Posted by Strictly BBB
    I did not test FC, CYA because the city water had been in the pool for a month before I tested it.

    1st question is: Should I test for CYA in my city tap water from the pool?
    No. There won't be any.

    Quote Originally Posted by Strictly BBB
    2nd question: Should I add the CYA and let dissolve before adding any chlorine? (I am thinking about using 30ppm CYA)
    You should add both. It will take a while to get the CYA dissolved, but you want to get the chlorine started now too.

    Quote Originally Posted by Strictly BBB
    3rd question:We have a month until people start swimming in their pool in my area.The water temp in my pool is 60 degrees. What chemicals/tests are effected by colder water temps? I know water for CYA test must be warmed to 70 temp before testing. Any other chemicals or tests that are effected by cold water?
    Not substantially.


    Quote Originally Posted by Strictly BBB
    4th question: I am using a liquidator it needs PH 7.2-7.6, TA 80-100 (My numbers are at the high in of that range.) Should I go ahead and add acid to lower both PH(To 7.0) and TA and then aerate to bring the PH back up to 7.3?
    I wouldn't worry about the TA at 120ppm unless you have issues with your pH rising constantly. Rainwater and acid additions will make it tend to drop over time for most people.
    TFP Moderator
    20K Gallon 20X36 Vinyl Inground
    Hayward S244T Sand Filter with 1HP Whisperflo Pump. Liquidator C-201 and Solar Heat

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