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Thread: Light replacement

  1. Back To Top    #1

    Join Date
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    Light replacement

    I'm changing out a Savi Melody LED light. Do I need to drain below, or can I do it wet? Is there any harm in having the conduit flooded?
    25' x 13' Roman, 12000 gal IGP, Plaster, with 500 gal Spa
    SWG, 1 HP Max Flo Pump, C-900 cartridge filter
    Solar heat

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    JasonLion's Avatar
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    Re: Light replacement

    You should be able to remove the light fixture, usually with a single screw, and lift it on to the deck and work on it there.
    19K gal, vinyl, 1/2 HP WhisperFlo pump, 200 sqft cartridge filter, AutoPilot Digital SWG, Dolphin Dynamic cleaning robot
    Creator of PoolMath and Pool Calculator. Other handy links: Support this site, TF Test Kits, Pool School

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    Re: Light replacement

    Are you just changing out the bulb or the whole unit with cable and everything? I'm having to do the cable/ballast/light/all of it in the coming months. Not looking forward to that.
    Clearwater, Florida

    12,000 gallon kidney shaped gunite pool
    Pentair Whisperflo 3/4HP Pump
    Pentair CCP420 420sq/ft Cartridge Filter
    Pentair Intellibrite 5G 120V Pool Light

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    Riverside, CA
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    Re: Light replacement

    Building Code required enough extra cable to set my LED lights onto the pool deck; just for that reason.
    40x20 Free Form IG Pool (aprox 29,000 Gal, 140 Perimeter, depth 3'6"-7', Baja Shelf, 8x8 Free Form Spa) - Gunite Shell, Pebble Plaster Finish, Poured Concrete Coping - 3 Deep Heat Returns - Jandy LXi400 Gas Heater (400,000 Btu) - Jandy Variable Speed Pump JEP 2.0 - Jandy CL 600 Filter - HASA Liquidator - Jandy PDA 6 w/ Remote - 4x Jandy WaterColors Pool LEDs - 48" Gas Fire Pit - 6x Gas Tiki Torches - 12'x15' U-shaped BBQ Island (Firemagic Equipment)
    http://www.troublefreepool.com/new-p...ca-t28413.html

  5. Back To Top    #5

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    Re: Light replacement

    Sorry for not explaining. The Savi Melody and its cable are all one single unit with no replaceable parts. It fits in a standard return fitting. So through the pool wall I have 1-1/2" PVC pipe that transitions to electrical conduit after a few feet. I need to pull the light body and cable out and pull a new one through.[attachment=0:1q90sf16]savi.jpg[/attachment:1q90sf16]
    Attached Images Attached Images
    25' x 13' Roman, 12000 gal IGP, Plaster, with 500 gal Spa
    SWG, 1 HP Max Flo Pump, C-900 cartridge filter
    Solar heat

  6. Back To Top    #6
    JasonLion's Avatar
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    Re: Light replacement

    If everything was installed correctly there should be a junction box somewhere not too far from the light where the other end of the cable is connected to the power wire coming from the switch/automation system. You will need to connect a string to the existing cable, pull the cable out, attach the new cable to the string, pull the string through and connect the new cable back to the power wire in the junction box. All of this can be done with water in the pool as long as the power is off.
    19K gal, vinyl, 1/2 HP WhisperFlo pump, 200 sqft cartridge filter, AutoPilot Digital SWG, Dolphin Dynamic cleaning robot
    Creator of PoolMath and Pool Calculator. Other handy links: Support this site, TF Test Kits, Pool School

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    Re: Light replacement

    Wow.
    Why may I ask do you have to change the light? there supposed to last over five years.

    I have one in the box in front of me and it says that the wire is not to be cut and must run right up to the 12v transformer(in the pool house). There's no niche, there's a retaining ring that holds it into the 1.5 return type fitting. This ring needs either the proper Nexxus key or a pair of needle nose pliers to turn it.

    I would think that if you didn't lower the water level the pipe would fill up with water when you pull the old one out and make for a tough time getting the new one in.

    Good luck
    Cement 12'x30', in the neighborhood of 50 years old. Restored, 1.5"plumbing, 1hp super pump 2, Hayward swim clear cartridge filter, Summit2.5t heater,Hayward SWG t-9 cell, Nexxus Blanco lights, pentair bermuda gunite skimmer.

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    Re: Light replacement

    Jason - Thanks. I've got a nylon fish tape so can easily get the light in. I just wanted to know if I should try to keep the conduit dry, or if flooding was OK. I'm not even sure the electrician glued the fittings together - espeically where it necks down from PVC to the grey conduit.

    Brownsburg - Letting water into conduit is not going make it more difficult to fish the wire. If anything, it might make it easier by lubricating the cable. But that's not a concern because I've already fished one through the longest run which is my spa - for that, I drained it into the pool. I did not buy their special tool as I have a spanner wrench.

    I've now had 4 of these Savi Melody lights flood. The first one was just a couple weeks after the build in the spa, and the PB was able to get me a new one, which I replaced. Now, that one plus the 2 in the pool have flooded. The company sent me 3 new ones. These are a different design than the older model. Instead of the electronics in a separate housing, everything is in a single housing. Google Savi Melody images and you'll see the old style. Anyway, I still was not confident in their connector where the cable goes into the housing, so I've potted the ends with industrial 2 part epoxy which I use routinely at work. So hopefully, none of these will flood.

    By the way, 2 still work while partially flooded. When the one started going crazy, I jumped in with a mask and saw it had water. Checked the others and they did too.

    I'll post photos when I've pulled them.
    25' x 13' Roman, 12000 gal IGP, Plaster, with 500 gal Spa
    SWG, 1 HP Max Flo Pump, C-900 cartridge filter
    Solar heat

  9. Back To Top    #9

    Re: Light replacement

    I'd love to know where they leak from once you've pulled it. I have one to put in and don't plan on replacing it every few years.
    I think that I'm going to run a full 1.5" conduit so that I can pull it if it dies and put in a return or a vacuum line.

    Can't wait to see photos.
    Cement 12'x30', in the neighborhood of 50 years old. Restored, 1.5"plumbing, 1hp super pump 2, Hayward swim clear cartridge filter, Summit2.5t heater,Hayward SWG t-9 cell, Nexxus Blanco lights, pentair bermuda gunite skimmer.

  10. Back To Top    #10

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    Re: Light replacement

    I don't know if the conduit is ever dry. My conduit is run to a place near the equipment and then brought up a couple feet above water level. The PB made it sound like the conduit could be full of water all the time, just like the air intake for my spa.

    I didn't see them install the Jandy LEDs, so I don't know if they have a rubber gasket on the back of the light assembly or not.
    40x20 Free Form IG Pool (aprox 29,000 Gal, 140 Perimeter, depth 3'6"-7', Baja Shelf, 8x8 Free Form Spa) - Gunite Shell, Pebble Plaster Finish, Poured Concrete Coping - 3 Deep Heat Returns - Jandy LXi400 Gas Heater (400,000 Btu) - Jandy Variable Speed Pump JEP 2.0 - Jandy CL 600 Filter - HASA Liquidator - Jandy PDA 6 w/ Remote - 4x Jandy WaterColors Pool LEDs - 48" Gas Fire Pit - 6x Gas Tiki Torches - 12'x15' U-shaped BBQ Island (Firemagic Equipment)
    http://www.troublefreepool.com/new-p...ca-t28413.html

  11. Back To Top    #11

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    Re: Light replacement

    Quote Originally Posted by brownsburg
    I'd love to know where they leak from once you've pulled it. I have one to put in and don't plan on replacing it every few years.
    I think that I'm going to run a full 1.5" conduit so that I can pull it if it dies and put in a return or a vacuum line.

    Can't wait to see photos.
    That is a great idea to run 1.5" all the way.

    All I can say right now is that the light housing is flooded, but I don't know about the electronics housing yet. At first I suspected improper installation - that the PB cracked them during installation. If you knew my PB, having all 3 cracked would not be unusual. So I was very careful when I installed the replacement in the spa - but now it is leaking. So the only place it could be is the connector at the back, which did not look all that water tight to me, which is why I potted the entire connector and a few inches of cable. In the least, I'd caulk the **** out of that area and then wrap it with rubber tape.

    I'll take one apart and add some pressure to the connector end to see if there are any cracks in the housing.
    25' x 13' Roman, 12000 gal IGP, Plaster, with 500 gal Spa
    SWG, 1 HP Max Flo Pump, C-900 cartridge filter
    Solar heat

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