First TF100 test Results - Need help please

[Rockstead]

Just opened pool after freezing winter. Pool is slightly green, pool has been running for the last few hours but no chlorine has been added yet, and SWG is not on.

18x36 foot deep end Vinyl pool. Sand Filter, 2HP, Pump, Aqua Logic P4, + Aqual Logic SWG, Summit Heat Pump.

It's my first time ever using my TF100 kit or the Magenetic Stirrer, took me a while to figure out what the while little pill thing was

First I ran the daily test:

results:

CL + BR: I could not measure it, my water colour remained clear and did not measure any yellow.
PH: Matched very close to 7.2

Should I have mixed that in the stirrer? I just shook it in that case and not the stirrer.

Weekly Results:

Chlorine Drop Test:

Where it says to use the Chlorine only cylinder, I used the magnetic stirrer instead.
I added my heaping scoop using that little blue scoop of R-870 and I placed in the cylinder that came with the stirrer, I put that little white Pill thing inside and stirred it for awhile until it pretty much disolved.

The problem is that it did not turn the water pink in it. So this is where I'm stuck.

I would appreciate if any one can comment on what I've done so far and the results before I continue.

Thanks!

 

[JamesW]

The test results mean that you don't have any chlorine. If you can post a full set of test results, then we will be better able to advise you about what to do next.

 

[Bama Rambler]

The CL+Br kit is the OTO test and if you put 5 drops of the reagent in there and it didn't turn yellow then there is no chlorine. the fact that the pool is green tells me that you need to shock the pool.

If you haven't already, you should read pool school on how to shock.

 

[Rockstead]

The CL+Br kit is the OTO test and if you put 5 drops of the reagent in there and it didn't turn yellow then there is no chlorine. the fact that the pool is green tells me that you need to shock the pool.

If you haven't already, you should read pool school on how to shock.

Thanks, I read it and I was suggested by some members to do my tests first before shocking, I'm going to shock with liquid Chlorine once I know how much to put in.

 

[Rockstead]

I just did the Alkalinity test and I'm supposed to count how many drops it is supposed to take to turn the water back from being green, when I first put in a drop it all turns redish for a second and then after 6 drops it turned pink, should that be considered the red or should it be a deeper colour red, what should my reference be for how red the red should be?

 

[JamesW]

I just did the Alkalinity test and I'm supposed to count how many drops it is supposed to take to turn the water back from being green, when I first put in a drop it all turns redish for a second and then after 6 drops it turned pink, should that be considered the red or should it be a deeper colour red, what should my reference be for how red the red should be?

As long as it changes from green to pink/red, then that it the end. The exact color is not important.

Once it changes color, you add one more drop to see if there is any further color change. If there is no more color change, then you do not count the last drop.

 

[Rockstead]

So here are all my results:

No Chlorine

PH:7.2

Alkalinity: 6 drops x 10 = 60

Calcium Hardness: 9 drops x 10 = 90. Makes mention that I should do something different if the pool has copper, but how do I test for copper with my kit? Would my results be wrong if I did in fact have copper ?

CYA: First, I followed my test kit instructions exactly, but it is there a way to use the magnetic stirrer to do this or are you not supposed to?

Adding the R-0013 to the pool water and the water remained clear so at no point was I not able to see the black do in the CYA view cylinder, amd I doing something wrong?

What's next? do I just plug in all my info to the pool calculator and then start off with the missing chlorine?

then how do I know what chemicals to add next and in what order, how many minutesr apart and the right way to add it to the pool, (mixing with water, or striaght in the pool, or the skimmer, etc)

Thank you!

 

[JasonLion]

You don't have any CYA, which isn't very surprising. CYA sometimes goes away over the winter.

Your PH and TA are good for now.

The next thing to do is start adding 30 ppm of CYA and get ready to shock the pool. Instructions on shocking are in Pool School.

 

[Rockstead]

You don't have any CYA, which isn't very surprising. CYA sometimes goes away over the winter.

Your PH and TA are good for now.

The next thing to do is start adding 30 ppm of CYA and get ready to shock the pool. Instructions on shocking are in Pool School.

How do you get the 30 ppm for CYA, how does that convert to pounds? From reading the pool school I see CYA is Stabilizer, can I purchase this somewhere cheaper than the pool store?

When I try the pool calculator for my 18x36 x 8 foot deep pool, and I put 0 as CYA now and my target for CYA as 70, it tells me I new 20 pounds of Stabilizer, does that compare to the 30 ppm you wrote? seems like the number is too high.

How soon after putting the Stabilizer can I then put in the Liquid Bleach or do I put the liquid Bleach first and then how long do I wait for the stabilizer?, setting a target of of FC to 0 and a target of 3, it tells me I would need 1 gallon 2 quarts 3 cups or 1.7 (128 oz) jugs, could that be right?

How soon after placing the liquid bleach can I then test the water again?

 

[JamesW]

An 18 X 36 pool with an 8 foot deep end will have about 22,000 gallons. This assumes that your average depth is 4.5 feet, not 8 feet.

A 22,000 gallon pool will take 5.5 pounds of cyanuric acid to raise the cyanuric acid from 0 to 30 ppm.

Cyanuric acid can be purchased at any place that sells pool chemicals.

 

[Rockstead]

An 18 X 36 pool with an 8 foot deep end will have about 22,000 gallons. This assumes that your average depth is 4.5 feet, not 8 feet.

A 22,000 gallon pool will take 5.5 pounds of cyanuric acid to raise the cyanuric acid from 0 to 30 ppm.

Cyanuric acid can be purchased at any place that sells pool chemicals.

I'm assuming 30ppm is equal to putting 30 as my goal for CYA assuming my pool is 22000 gallons, but the recommended goal is 70-80 which is why I put 70 there and it tells me to put in 13 pounds so I'm just confused why you guys are saying 30, oh maybe you guys missed that I have a SWG, I see 30 is recommended for pools without one.

 

[JamesW]

30 ppm is just until you get your water clean and clear. Once you're finished shocking, then you increase the Cyanuric acid to 70 ppm.

 

[Richard320]

Welcome!

Most of your questions are answered in Pool School or in a sticky thread in the algae forum.

Congratulations on your wise purchases. You have the most important item for a trouble-free pool: an accurate, complete test kit.

For pH, I just cap and invert the test block, then right it and read it. I doubt it affects things on such a small scale, but aerating pool water affects pH, so I just avoid aerating the sample. Maybe I'm just being obsessive.

The Chlorine test cylinder will get clouded with use, which is why it is a dedicated cylinder. It still works fine on the speedstir.

For TA and CH, the speedstir is the best. TA doesn't really turn red, more of a Barbie pink color. CH will read pale blue, not lavendar, when it's done. Oft-times just hitting the cycle button fpr another go-around will get the color to change, no reagent needed, just more mixing.

When I do the CYA test, I measure things out in the mixing bottle, then drop the magnetic stirbar in and set the whole thing on the speedstir. Works great. As an aside, take your reading, pour it back in the bottle, swirl it a few times, then test again. Do it a few times until you're comfortable with your reading.

I ordered extra stir bars from some place on eBay, so I can run all my tests before I have to start rinsing things off. The test kit has 2 vials, you got another with the speedstir, and you can mix CYA in the bottle.

It seems overwhelming right now, but in a month or so, you'll be totally at ease with it all, and your pool will be clear and sparkling.

 

[Bama Rambler]

Just to restate what James said, you're only bringing the CYA up to 30 because you want some CYA in the water to help with the sun burning off all the chlorine but you don't want too much because it will raise your shock level too high and would require a ton of bleach to get there. Once you're done shocking, then you bring it to 70 ppm.

I always use the speedstir and vial to mix my CYA test sample. I do mix it, let it set a few seconds, then mix it again before pouring it in the view tube.

 

[Rockstead]

Thanks for all the replies guys, I can't wait until I get to the point where I can look back at my old messages for a laugh.

OK I'm going to shock when I get home, is it OK to place my 5 pounds of Stabilizer in one of my wife's old Nylon's (or new one that I steal from her) and just place that in the skimmer basket while I shock the pool at the same time with the liquid Chlorine?

 

[JasonLion]

Yes, though it might be slightly better to hang it in front of a return.

 

[Sportsman]

Welcome,

On a lighter side, regarding your first post on FC levels, it reminds me of high school chem lab and testing for an unknown. Worst sample you could get was H2O because it failed every test and you had to wonder if you had water or did something wrong.

 

[Rockstead]

OK just to tell you where I am at.

Two days ago I shared my results, since then the Pool guy had dumped in 2 x 5l 10% Purox Pool store Liquid Chlorine.

I was able to confirm my pool size is 80,000 Litres, so according to the calculator, he should have put in 15 Litres of the Strong Pool store bleach, as well the pool did not have any CYA when this was added, but yesterday I placed aprox 4 pounds over a return.

My Water is very cold, currently at 46 and we have not had any real sun.

I just did my Chlorine test with the R870 and it didn't turn pink, could all the chlorine really have gone that fast in 2 days without sun and without CYA?

According to the calculator, for a 80,000 litre pool and 0 chlorine, I would have to put 9 x 2.85litre jugs of 6% bleach I just bought for $1 each to reach a FC of 20.

Does this all sound right, should I go ahead with all that bleach.

I'mnot sure what changed but when I revisited the Pool Calculator, it suggested a shock value of 10 and not 20.

Thanks!

 

[zea3]

If the FC is very high 1 scoop of powder will not turn the sample pink. Try again using 2 scoops of the powder. You can also use the OTO FC test, just to see if there is chlorine in the pool. If the color is very intense then try the drop test with 2 scoops of powder.

 

[Rockstead]

If the FC is very high 1 scoop of powder will not turn the sample pink. Try again using 2 scoops of the powder. You can also use the OTO FC test, just to see if there is chlorine in the pool. If the color is very intense then try the drop test with 2 scoops of powder.

I also tried the K-1000 and it doesn't register any FC, as well the water isn't clear but it isn't a green swamp but I still can't see the floor.

Also, Can I just shake the sock in the watrer that is holding the Stabilizer to get it in to the pool quicker?