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Thread: Please hold my hand...

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    Please hold my hand...

    I don't know if this should be posted in this section, The BBB section, or the starting up section. So if I should post it elsewhere please lmk.
    I ordered the TF-100 test kit, and it came fast! I'm alittle intimidated by it honestly.
    I plan on pumpimg the water off the cover and removing it this week when the rain stops, here's where I get confused. After I get the water level back up and have the pump running do I test, or let the pump run for 24 hours and then test?
    What all information about my pool should I have on hand so you wonderful experts can help me through this?
    13K Gal, AG (buried in-ground) pool, Pentair SD40 19" Sand Filter, 1.5 hp Dynamo pump

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    Re: Please hold my hand...

    You should test right away and after about 12 hours. Don't add anything until the second test. You should also test your tap water. If you post the results of all three tests, we should be able to help you get going. The more you test, the better you will get at it.

    See this post for more information.

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    Re: Please hold my hand...

    Don't bother to test the tap water for CYA -- it won't have any and you might as well save your reagent, but do test your pool water for that parameter. For the tap water, the most important parameters to know are CH, TA and pH (you can test for FC and CC if you like, but that's not really necessary). For your pool, we also need FC, CC and CYA in addition to the CH, TA and pH.
    16,000 gallon outdoor in-ground 16'x32' plaster pool; Pentair Intelliflo VF pump; Pentair IntelliTouch i9+3s control system; Jandy CL-340 square foot cartridge filter
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    Mod Squad zea3's Avatar
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    Re: Please hold my hand...

    After the pool is full let the pump mix the water well for an hour or so and then test. Let us know if you have any questions about conducting any of the tests. Post the results and we'll go from there!
    TFP Moderator
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    Vogue 21' round AG, Pentair 1 hp 2 speed pump, 36 sq ft DE filter, Hayward S180T 150# sand filter, Houston, Texas
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    Richard320's Avatar
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    Re: Please hold my hand...

    Just get the water well mixed. The pump helps, obviously. Brushing also gets things to mix, especially if you have a wall whale brush.

    My advice: Remove cover, turn on water, brush until your arms get sore, then relax in the shade with a cold drink. When sufficiently recovered, go brush some more. Repeat. Start pump as soon as the water level is high enough. Once the pump's been on for an hour or so, grab a sample and start testing.

    You aren't going to get the chemistry perfect in one crack anyway, so if the water's not perfectly mixed, it probably will be by the time you test tomorrow. Just go easy on the chemicals, except chlorine. Chlorine will go away on its own if you overdo it, but the other stuff can get ugly fast. Start with a coarse adjustment, then get closer, then closer, and pretty soon you're in range, and then you can get obsessive with the fine-tuning.
    16K freeform gunite with spa; Pentair 4000 DE filter; Century Whisperflow 1 HP; Pentair Minimax heater.
    Troublefree does not mean Maintenancefree. It's like brushing your teeth: You can spend a couple minutes a day and pennies a week or go to the dentist once a year and spend several thousand dollars.
    A pool is like a pet - you have to feed it every day, even the days you don't want to play with it!

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    Re: Please hold my hand...

    Quote Originally Posted by Richard320
    Just get the water well mixed. The pump helps, obviously. Brushing also gets things to mix, especially if you have a wall whale brush.

    My advice: Remove cover, turn on water, brush until your arms get sore, then relax in the shade with a cold drink. When sufficiently recovered, go brush some more. Repeat. Start pump as soon as the water level is high enough. Once the pump's been on for an hour or so, grab a sample and start testing.

    You aren't going to get the chemistry perfect in one crack anyway, so if the water's not perfectly mixed, it probably will be by the time you test tomorrow. Just go easy on the chemicals, except chlorine. Chlorine will go away on its own if you overdo it, but the other stuff can get ugly fast. Start with a coarse adjustment, then get closer, then closer, and pretty soon you're in range, and then you can get obsessive with the fine-tuning.
    Fuffy, welcome to TFP!!

    The advice you've received is absolutely the best!

    Richard, that is GREAT advice!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! (Mods, I'm thinking this advice should be stickied, especially the last paragraph-- L&L, Ted)
    Luv& Luk
    -Ted

    Having done construction and service for 4 pool companies in 4 states starting in 1988, what I know about pools could fill a couple of books - what I don't know could fill a couple of libraries :-D

    POOL SCHOOL, TF Testkits, Jason's Pool Calculator, CYA vs. cl chart, (Just a few DARNED handy links!)

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    Re: Please hold my hand...

    Thank you all! I'm getting ready to start pumping the water off. *fingers crossed that it's not horrible*
    13K Gal, AG (buried in-ground) pool, Pentair SD40 19" Sand Filter, 1.5 hp Dynamo pump

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    Re: Please hold my hand...

    Well the weather hasn't agreed with us so the cover isn't off yet. However, I did the tap water readings.
    CH- 160
    TA- 400
    PH- 7.2
    13K Gal, AG (buried in-ground) pool, Pentair SD40 19" Sand Filter, 1.5 hp Dynamo pump

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    Re: Please hold my hand...

    Ok, now we're cooking with oil. The cover is off and a ran a test on the water that was still in the pool.
    TC-0
    FC-0
    CC-0
    CYA-0
    CH-310
    TA-200
    PH- 8.2 (or more, it was bright red)
    The pool was only half full, so I have it filling now. I test again after I get the pump running right?

    I will say I was suprised at how clear the water was! If I would have waited for my husband to help remove the cover I don't think there would have been much in the pool. I was impatient and had my son help me and we ended up getting the cover in the water sending some nasty muck stuff in.
    13K Gal, AG (buried in-ground) pool, Pentair SD40 19" Sand Filter, 1.5 hp Dynamo pump

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    JasonLion's Avatar
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    Re: Please hold my hand...

    Moving right along

    Water test results are not really reliable until the pool is full and the pump has been running for an hour or more. However, you can use these results to get a sense of where you are likely to be.

    PH and TA are both quite high, expect to need to use a fair bit of acid.
    19K gal, vinyl, 1/2 HP WhisperFlo pump, 200 sqft cartridge filter, AutoPilot Digital SWG, Dolphin Dynamic cleaning robot
    Creator of PoolMath and Pool Calculator. Other handy links: Support this site, TF Test Kits, Pool School

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    Re: Please hold my hand...

    Quote Originally Posted by JasonLion
    Moving right along

    Water test results are not really reliable until the pool is full and the pump has been running for an hour or more. However, you can use these results to get a sense of where you are likely to be.

    PH and TA are both quite high, expect to need to use a fair bit of acid.
    I found that out last year, I could never get the PH under control. I used alot of acid. I'm hoping those with this nice test kit, and the wisdom on here, I'll get it in control this year.
    13K Gal, AG (buried in-ground) pool, Pentair SD40 19" Sand Filter, 1.5 hp Dynamo pump

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    Re: Please hold my hand...

    Alrighty, the pool is full and the pump has been running for quite awhile now. Here are my readings.
    TC-0
    FC-0
    CC-0
    CYA-0
    TA-260
    PH-8.2
    CH-310
    I plugged that into the calculator and am all kinds of confused lol.
    I won't be able to get to town to buy any stabilizer until tomorrow. I do have alot of bleach on hand so I could start shocking. I have some Muric Acid left over from last year, is it still good, should I try to lower the PH some? Would it be wise to use some Dichlor or Trichlor while shocking to try and raise the CYA and lower the Ph?
    13K Gal, AG (buried in-ground) pool, Pentair SD40 19" Sand Filter, 1.5 hp Dynamo pump

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    Richard320's Avatar
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    Re: Please hold my hand...

    Quote Originally Posted by fuffy
    Alrighty, the pool is full and the pump has been running for quite awhile now. Here are my readings.
    TC-0
    FC-0
    CC-0
    CYA-0
    TA-260
    PH-8.2
    CH-310
    I plugged that into the calculator and am all kinds of confused lol.
    I won't be able to get to town to buy any stabilizer until tomorrow. I do have alot of bleach on hand so I could start shocking. I have some Muric Acid left over from last year, is it still good, should I try to lower the PH some? Would it be wise to use some Dichlor or Trichlor while shocking to try and raise the CYA and lower the Ph?
    The acid will still be good. Get pH down ASAP. 8.2 is max, so you may be higher, so pool calculator won't be perfect. Add acid, mix it up good, check it again in an hour and repeat as needed. Then start shocking. Unless you have dichlor or trichlor sitting around already, just buy plain stabilizer to get CYA level up to about 30. When the water is clear, it passes the overnight test and the FC drops below 10, then run another full set of tests and we can help you get things fine tuned.

    Remember, pH will read wrong at shock levels, so you need to get it right before you start shocking, and then ignore it until shocking is done.
    16K freeform gunite with spa; Pentair 4000 DE filter; Century Whisperflow 1 HP; Pentair Minimax heater.
    Troublefree does not mean Maintenancefree. It's like brushing your teeth: You can spend a couple minutes a day and pennies a week or go to the dentist once a year and spend several thousand dollars.
    A pool is like a pet - you have to feed it every day, even the days you don't want to play with it!

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