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Thread: Low chlorine

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    Low chlorine

    Hi, I am a lurker and have hardly any chlorine in my pool. I have a SWG that seems to be running ok. I cleaned the element on 3/27/11. The element is only about 2 years old. The panel seems to register that there is enough salt in the pool to run. Here are my latest readings:

    FC .02
    PH 7.6
    TA 90
    CH 300
    CYA 80
    Borax 50
    Salt 3500

    The temp is 80. Is there anything that I am missing? purptiger
    12k Gal. Kidney IG pool (Built around 1964 screened enclosure?), Tahoe Blue Diamond Brite (Added 12/2007), 1 hp motor, Sta-Rite P2 pump, Hayward C900 paper cartridge filter, Resilience SWG PSC-3 SCC 25 Element, Dolphin Robatic Cleaner, Lamotte ColorQ Pro 11, Taylor K2006C, Lamotte Tracer PockeTester PH/TDS/SAL, purptiger

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    dmanb2b's Avatar
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    Re: Low chlorine

    Hey Purp

    Try performing an overnight FC loss test to rule out organics. You may need to shock the pool
    24'x52" AGP (13,500 Gallons), Intex SWG, (2)Solar Bear 4x20 panels, Hayward S220T Filter, 1/2hp Pentair Superflo

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    Mod Squad zea3's Avatar
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    Re: Low chlorine

    What temperature is the water? What percentage of chlorine production is the SWG trying to create? Did you double check the salt level with an independent test?
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  4. Back To Top    #4

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    Re: Low chlorine

    First I do not know what a free chlorine loss test is. The temp is 80 and I am trying to get 1 ppm. By the way the swg panel is set at 80%. I use salt test strip.
    12k Gal. Kidney IG pool (Built around 1964 screened enclosure?), Tahoe Blue Diamond Brite (Added 12/2007), 1 hp motor, Sta-Rite P2 pump, Hayward C900 paper cartridge filter, Resilience SWG PSC-3 SCC 25 Element, Dolphin Robatic Cleaner, Lamotte ColorQ Pro 11, Taylor K2006C, Lamotte Tracer PockeTester PH/TDS/SAL, purptiger

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    JasonLion's Avatar
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    Re: Low chlorine

    The overnight FC loss test is described in Pool School here.

    You should not expect the SWG to bring the FC level up from zero on it's own. They are designed to maintain the FC level when it is already at the correct level and everything else is properly balanced.
    19K gal, vinyl, 1/2 HP WhisperFlo pump, 200 sqft cartridge filter, AutoPilot Digital SWG, Dolphin Dynamic cleaning robot
    Creator of PoolMath and Pool Calculator. Other handy links: Support this site, TF Test Kits, Pool School

  6. Back To Top    #6
    dmanb2b's Avatar
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    Re: Low chlorine

    Quote Originally Posted by purptiger
    First I do not know what a free chlorine loss test is. The temp is 80 and I am trying to get 1 ppm. By the way the swg panel is set at 80%. I use salt test strip.
    Just to add that an FC of 1ppm is way too low for CYA at 80ppm per the FC/CYA chart in Pool school. This is why I was guessing you have something eating up your chlorine. As Jason linked, the OFCLT will confirm this for you. Have you read through Pool School?

    Especially

    pool-school/water_balance_saltwater_generator

    pool-school/recommended_levels
    24'x52" AGP (13,500 Gallons), Intex SWG, (2)Solar Bear 4x20 panels, Hayward S220T Filter, 1/2hp Pentair Superflo

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  7. Back To Top    #7

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    Re: Low chlorine

    I had to wind up draining the pool to patch the Diamond-Brite. I replaced with city water. I called the people at Resillence and they told me to have the phosphates checked at a local pool store. What do you guys think? Thanks, purptiger
    12k Gal. Kidney IG pool (Built around 1964 screened enclosure?), Tahoe Blue Diamond Brite (Added 12/2007), 1 hp motor, Sta-Rite P2 pump, Hayward C900 paper cartridge filter, Resilience SWG PSC-3 SCC 25 Element, Dolphin Robatic Cleaner, Lamotte ColorQ Pro 11, Taylor K2006C, Lamotte Tracer PockeTester PH/TDS/SAL, purptiger

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    JasonLion's Avatar
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    Re: Low chlorine

    The phosphate level doesn't matter, just ignore it. Phosphates are one of the things algae eats as it grows. If you get rid of all the phosphates then algae has a much harder time growing, and so is easier to kill. But if you keep your pool properly sanitized, algae never gets started in the first place, and phosphates can be anything without causing any problems.
    19K gal, vinyl, 1/2 HP WhisperFlo pump, 200 sqft cartridge filter, AutoPilot Digital SWG, Dolphin Dynamic cleaning robot
    Creator of PoolMath and Pool Calculator. Other handy links: Support this site, TF Test Kits, Pool School

  9. Back To Top    #9

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    Re: Low chlorine

    I put 2, 1 lb bags of Leslies power plus to shock the pool on am 4/13/11. When I got home from work, I tested the FC and it read 5.0 and ph 7.6. Today 4/14/11 I tested it again pm and it read 3.5. I am trying to get the pool balanced with the chlorine, but do not know where to start. One poster said leave the phosphates alone, but the SWG manufacturer said to get the phosphates tested. If the CYA is 80 are you suggesting that I drain some of the water and lower the CYA? The PH is 7.6 and the TA was 90. The SWG manufacturer indicated that the system is doing fine, but that there is something eating the chlorine that the SWG is producing. He also said that city water tends to be high in phosphates to help keep the scale down in the pipes. I called Pinch-A-Penny and they told me the same thing about the phosphates (I should get them tested). Also, I had the CYA at 80 based on the SWG chemistry guidelines and the chlorine was the proper amount for 80 at the time.
    12k Gal. Kidney IG pool (Built around 1964 screened enclosure?), Tahoe Blue Diamond Brite (Added 12/2007), 1 hp motor, Sta-Rite P2 pump, Hayward C900 paper cartridge filter, Resilience SWG PSC-3 SCC 25 Element, Dolphin Robatic Cleaner, Lamotte ColorQ Pro 11, Taylor K2006C, Lamotte Tracer PockeTester PH/TDS/SAL, purptiger

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    dmanb2b's Avatar
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    Re: Low chlorine

    Purptiger, have you read pool school? Especially pool-school/shocking_your_pool

    Shocking is a process and not a product. You'll have to decide whether you listen to the pool store or us. You have not shocked your pool at all. Adding 2 bags of powder is simply bringing your FC up a bit but not enough to be at shock level. Your shock FC target at CYA of 80 is 30ppm. Since your CH and CYA are in range for a SWG, you really should shock with only Liquid chlorine.

    You'll also need a good test kit to take control of your pool and avoid being sold chemicals that may not fix the issue.
    24'x52" AGP (13,500 Gallons), Intex SWG, (2)Solar Bear 4x20 panels, Hayward S220T Filter, 1/2hp Pentair Superflo

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