Thank you, it seems none of my stores carry the TF100 test kit. Is it best to just order it online somewhere?
Thanks for the link will order this Friday! I still have a bunch and Crud on the bottom that I can't seem to get with a net. I am thinking of cleaning up one of the old filters carts that were left with the house and using it to vacuum the gunk out instead of my new filter cart. I imagine the old filter is going to clog up somewhat quick and need to be cleaned several times to get the bottom of the pool cleaned. Is there a max PSI I should avoid in my filter/pump when I am cleaning this gunk out?
Every pool has a different normal filter pressure, so it is hard to give you specifics. If the filter pressure goes up to 35 I would definitely start worrying about it. But, depending on your pool, something lower than that might be a cause for mild concern. You can get a much better idea by finding out what the normal pressure is with your new cartridge. Given that, you should be good up to 10 psi over that or 35 psi (or maybe 40), which ever comes first.
Ok update, I got a hayward valve and hooked everything up, I installed an old (cleaned) filter and fired the pump up. I bleed off the air from the filter until it was shooting water and closed the valve. I verified that is pump with returning water (it is very strong) to the pool, I checked to make sure I could adjust my valve to pull water from the skimmer alone, main drain alone and from both. The problem I have is even though everything seems to be working right, the pressure gage on the filter reads 0 when the pump is running even through I verified that water is passing through it and returning to the pool. Any ideas?
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If you are getting a strong return jet into the pool then the pressure gauge is probably broken. Those pressure gauges are not all that robust and often break after a year or two.
The pressure gauge is probably bad, pool companies tend to use cheap gauges that don't hold up in corrosive environments, I can't really blame them for this as a high quality corrosion resistant gauge would likely cost as much as the filter. As a result these cheap gauges die every few years, the good news is they are cheap ($5 on ebay), if you want to you can replace it with a better quality gauge, these can often be found new old stock on ebay also at a fraction of their original cost.
Ike
p.s. to answer your question they are usually either a 1/4 or 1/8 inch NPT fitting pressure gauge, any water rated gauge with the right pressure range will work, if the gauge is marked WAG, it will work as that means Water, Air, Gas rated..
Ike
p.s. to answer your question they are usually either a 1/4 or 1/8 inch NPT fitting pressure gauge, any water rated gauge with the right pressure range will work, if the gauge is marked WAG, it will work as that means Water, Air, Gas rated..
Found this on ebay, seems about half the cost of the tf-100 kit but seems to be missing total chlorine and bromine. Is this work the cost savings?
http://cgi.ebay.com/Chlorine-FAS-DPD-Se ... 4aaa6be624
http://cgi.ebay.com/Chlorine-FAS-DPD-Se ... 4aaa6be624
That is a very good price on what is essentially a K-2006. It doesn't have as much of each reagent as the TF100, but is otherwise very similar. The low price makes me wonder what is going on. One possibility is that they are selling out last years stock, which would be not so good for you. Another possibility is that it shouldn't have been imported into Canada in the first place and they are trying to get some money back after having been bared from selling in Canada, which would be much better for you.
Ok I made it to the pool store and got a new pressure gage. I also had them test the water. They use test strips which I know are not that accurate but they said my ph is a little low at 6.8 but everything else was in good shape. They said thought I have no "stablizer" which I assume to be CYA. I thought this was odd, I know the only way to get CYA out is to water change but is it normal to have 0? If you can't get it out without a water change I would think I would have some in there from the years prior that they used it. So with a 24ft pool which I assume to be 48 inches (need to measure) how do I figure out how much bleach I need to shock it?
On another note, anyone have trouble getting the locking ring back on their filter, I got it off to clean the filter and install the new pressure gage but CANNOT get the thing to screw on all the way, gets about 6 inches from where the tabs lock in and I cannot seem to move it any further with brute force.
On another note, anyone have trouble getting the locking ring back on their filter, I got it off to clean the filter and install the new pressure gage but CANNOT get the thing to screw on all the way, gets about 6 inches from where the tabs lock in and I cannot seem to move it any further with brute force.
Make sure the lid to the filter is seated correctly, o-ring in place, and everything is lined up as it should be. What brand and model of filter do you have?
Hayword swim pro voyoger, Yeah I tried for over an hour to get the ring to screw on far enough for the tabs to click into place, finally gave up because the sun went down. It's not the filter because I tried to screw the ring all the way on with the filter out of it and could not get it to scew on all the way, it gets about 6 inches from locking in and will NOT budge.
ok I have to be doing something wrong, I am using the pool calculator to see how much bleach i need to add. I set my CYA at 0 my FC at 0, the suggesting shock level is 10 for my pool size so I set the target to 10. It says I only need 280 oz of 6% bleach to shock my pool. Is that really all I need??? That seems like a very small amount?
280 ounces is correct. 2.2 gallons or about 9 quarts of 6 %.
It's very important that you get your own test kit so that you can properly manage all of your chemistry. You need to know the cyanuric acid level to know what the correct shock level is. Don't trust the pool store test strips to give you an accurate cyanuric acid level.
It's very important that you get your own test kit so that you can properly manage all of your chemistry. You need to know the cyanuric acid level to know what the correct shock level is. Don't trust the pool store test strips to give you an accurate cyanuric acid level.
That is approximately 3 96 ounce jugs of bleach to reach 10 ppm. You will need to keep the pool at 10ppm with further additions of bleach until the shock process is completed. Since you have no CYA you will loose FC quickly in the sunlight. You should add enough CYA to reach 20-30 ppm so the FC will last longer during the day. Adding CYA will also increase the shock level for your pool, so you would need to go back to the pool calculator to find the new shock level.