First complete TF100 test results

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Pierre!

Pierre!

0
Mar 29, 2011
15
Tucson, AZ
WoW! Who knew???

Here are my results from first testing with the TF100 Kit:

FC = 2.5
CC = .5
TC = 3.0
PH = 7.8
T/A = 330
CH = 1300
CYA = 100 (actually lost the black dot 1/2 of the way to 100!)

Pool Calculator says I will have a high water bill! but it should offset the FC required to kill an algae bloom...

Better test the tap water first...

Your input is appreciated!
 
Yup...you are looking at least a 70-80% drain and fill with CYA and CH being that high. I'm curious if the is an R/O service in your area, as that may be your most economical route?
 
Assuming you are confident of your test results, it is a good idea to bring the PH down to between 6.8 and 7.2 right away, and keep it down around there until you can bring either TA or CH down. Right now you have very high chances of getting calcium scaling.

You need to lower both CH and CYA. In both cases the only ways to do that are water replacement or an RO treatment. RO is reverse osmosis, a way of filtering out dissolved solids in the water. Companies like Calsaway in Phoenix do it, but I don't think they are in your area. There may be someone else doing it where you are.
 
I will certainly be testing some more, but looking at the pool tiles - which are *plated* with white deposits - this is waaaay beyond an emergency level... What ever is caked on the tiles is deep, and tough.

I was thinking that R/O was Reverse Osmosis... I'll have to check into the *costs*.

As renters, we are on the hook to maintain the pool... And the budget is so tight it squeeks!

With that in mind, which water test should I run on the pool fill water?
 
Pierre! said:
I will certainly be testing some more, but looking at the pool tiles - which are *plated* with white deposits - this is waaaay beyond an emergency level... What ever is caked on the tiles is deep, and tough.

I was thinking that R/O was Reverse Osmosis... I'll have to check into the *costs*.

As renters, we are on the hook to maintain the pool... And the budget is so tight it squeeks!

With that in mind, which water test should I run on the pool fill water?
Click to expand...
CH and TA

pH is easy to fix, FC should be minimal. There won't be any CYA. TA is actually not a big deal to fix, it's just nice to know if you will need to add acid when you top off the water. It's the Calcium that's the bear. If the fill water is 330, you can drain and refill the whole pool and you'll be back over 400 in weeks from evaporation.

The white deposits can be removed with a pumice stone. They'll sell you one at the pool store. They also sell them at hardware stores and even some grocery stores for cleaning cooking grills or removing scale lines from the toilet bowl. It makes terrible sounds, but surprisingly enough, you don't seem to destroy the finish on the tiles (or toilet bowl) doing it. It's not a fun job. You could try convincing the wife that doing it will tighten up the flab on her upper arms; I'm not that brave, myself.. :wink:
 
You should measure the TA and CH levels of the fill water. The CYA level of the fill water will always be zero. FC, CC, and PH of the fill water don't make much difference.

While light calcium scaling can be removed with a pumice stone, removing any significant amount of calcium scaling that way is impractical. You usually need to do an acid wash to get rid of any significant amount of calcium scaling.
 
The owner is a single woman. There are 2, count em *TWO* - clean tiles in the pool, and a virtually new drill powered set of pummice stones on the workbench.

She said I could use em if I wanted a good workout... :cool:

I have some neck issues that make just brushing the pool a son of a gun. Not really sure I will tackle a 5 year old calcium deposit thing...

I will have to look at perhaps partial change outs... depending on local ordinances. It may be possible to be *busted* for 'free flowing' water in the street - at least that was the way it was 26 years ago when I was cleaning carpets in Tucson...

Any other ideas, I am all ears, but in the mean time I will head out and do some watering, and capture some of the mid-stream water supply for testing.

Thanks for the help and suggestions.
 

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Perhaps the owner would cover the cost of R/O? Surely that's not a maintenance issue. If you were to present the issue to her with detailed information about how the pool chemistry works she would see the benefits of fixing it.

Keep in mind - having your CSI that out of whack is really bad for all the equipment. The damage is probably already done, but that's not a reason to fix the issue.

Bottom line - the pool has been neglected for years and she needs to spend some money on it to correct the pre existing issues.

Good luck!

(The website of the R/O company is strangely laid out. They state the cost of the service is $250 per pool as well as offering franchises for 12k. They might be worth a call to see if they do individual pools or just franchises....)
 
The home owner is in 'recovery mode'... and would simply *laugh*. Lost her job right about the time we moved in... We basically pay her mortgage... so it's a Win / Win for both of us.

My younger bro advised me not to buy this place. Pool will need to be re-plastered soon...

I'm not sinking big dough into it, but having to run FC at minimum SEVEN and a shock FC of Thirty Nine doesn't seem economical either.

It's agreed that the pool has been neglected, but there won't be any help soon for the 'recovery' of the pool.

I will see how the tap water tests out, and update the post when I find out!

Perhaps I should tack a Pool R/O service onto my Computer Consulting gig... Might be able to at least work some trade outs!

I will get my 'homework' done and post test results soon!


Thanks for the suggestions :)
 
no breezes this morning, and a pool full of tree needles and leaves, with some dirt thrown in for good measure...

Used to be I enjoyed a good wind storm... I can see that this thought process may change! :lol:

Here is the Fill Water test results:

CH = 23 vs 1300 from the pool
T/A = 100 vs 330 from the pool

So, a dump and fill should yield good results for a season I would hope...

Just got to figure out how to dump the water. Currently the backwash goes to a small basin on property in the alley behind the houses. 60% dump is quite a bit of water, and would be noticed...not to mention might flood a neighbors backyard. I'm thinking I need a pretty long hose - to wrap it back over the property to the front of the house for running it in the street. The hose would have to go over a 4' fence twice to do this route... Or I would need 100 to 150 feet to run it down the alley to the street to assure no backyards would flood.

This is more fun than I thought it would be! (insert maniacal laugh here)

Advice and thoughts appreciated.
 
Do you know your water rates and current usage?

You may find it'll cost a bit to refill the pool. Tuscons rate is 5.75 per HCF after the first 15 - so potentially 11,000 gallons = (11000/750*5.75) = $85. approx 750 gallons per Hundred Cubic Feet.

That extra $165 (for R/O) is not nothing - but maybe worth it for pure water and no risk of fines, games with hoses, etc.
 
I agree that the pool should be in usable condition... otherwise I would "maintain" that pool exactly how it was given to you...
If I were you I would take time/date pictures of the pool as you moved in so you can prove you didn't cause the problem.

Being a landlord is a business, and its not her "Right" to make money at it by giving you some sort of mess and saying here you take care of it
 
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