Ran the numbers with my new Taylor K-2105 kit. Just for the heck of it, I took a sample by a local pool supply store to have them test. Some things were very close, but there were several differences. Salt level from my controller shows 2900, and they came up with 2200. My TA number of 90 was close to their 89, but they had another category called "Adjusted Total Alkalinity" which was 76. For CYA, I had 75 vs their 44. She printed out everything with a recommendation of what I needed. I was able to thank her and walk out the door since I was on my Harley. What do you think of the differences in salt and CYA numbers?
Had a pool store test my water
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That is fairly normal. The better salt tests are +-400, so you are within the error of the tests there. CYA tends to be the test that automated test systems have the most trouble with. I would trust the Taylor black dot test above any electronic tester for CYA.
The most important things is to have consistent results, ie stick with your own testing. Don't worry too much about what the pool store says. You would be amazed at how frequently we see people posting pool store test results that are way way off from reality.
The most important things is to have consistent results, ie stick with your own testing. Don't worry too much about what the pool store says. You would be amazed at how frequently we see people posting pool store test results that are way way off from reality.
That is good to know. The CYA number had me scratching my head. I know I need to address my Calcium Hardness (I had 70 & they had 80) so I'll probably get that from them (15lbs for $32). I think it would also be wise to get a dose of Algae Inhibitor since I've never added any since the pool was installed last August. She said I needed to add that every two weeks. What's your take on that?
If you have a plaster/pebble/quartz pool you should start raising CH right away. With a vinyl liner you can leave CH low. With fiberglass you want to raise CH but don't need to rush.
I recommend against the algae inhibitor. If you take proper care of your pool there is no need for it, and they can often have side effects that are undesirable.
I recommend against the algae inhibitor. If you take proper care of your pool there is no need for it, and they can often have side effects that are undesirable.
Sounds like your pool is fiberglass (Viking). We generally recommend keeping ~200 ppm CH, in order to prevent staining. Out of curiousity, how long have you had the pool at that CH level, and have you noticed any problems?
You are correct, it is a fiberglass pool. In all honesty, I have never checked the CH until I bought the Taylor kit the other day. The kit the pool company gave me didn't have that capability. It only tested Chlorine, PH, Acid Demand, and TA. I've done nothing to the pool since it was installed but add some salt after a ton of rain. I have the SWCG set at 20%, and have had to add some bleach on occasion during the winter. Pool stays clear and there have been no algae issues nor are there any stains. I've just been keeping it clean and testing the water 2 to 3 times a week. Now that I've been spending more time on this site, I can see that I've been lucky things aren't all out of whack. I guess the CH has been like that from day 1.