I had just started cutting the coping stones last fall for installation around the pool when it got too cold and had to shut everything down for the winter. I was using a masonry cutting wheel and it took about 5 - 10 minutes to cut 1 stone. I can handle that pace, but I also have pavers and capstones for my wall to still cut. I'm assuming that these would be equally slow. Would a diamond saw work better/faster? What would be the best option?
Cutting paver stones, etc.
- Thread starter archer_310
- Start date
What kind of stone is your coping made from?
You can use a masonery wet saw to cut pavers and caps.
You can use a masonery wet saw to cut pavers and caps.
Concrete as far as I know. They are made by Oaks. Would a wet saw cut faster than a dry one?
Yes, a diamond blade will work much better and faster. The blades are either segmented or continuous. Get the continuous for a better, smoother cut. You can use a sander to smooth and bevel the edges of the stones after they are cut. You can get a blade that fits on a circular saw or you can rent a bigger saw if you have a lot of work that needs to be done.
A dry saw should be fine for stone and concrete. A wet saw is better for tile.
A dry saw should be fine for stone and concrete. A wet saw is better for tile.
Can I just buy a diamond blade for my saw, or are they too expensive? Also, do you need to use water for cooling with a diamond blade, or is it used dry?
A dry saw will work for pavers and caps. Using a wet saw keeps the dust down. I've used both wet an dry cutitng pavers and prefer the wet saw.
The blades are about $23.00 to 40.00 each and fit on a regular 7-inch circular saw. They can be used dry.archer_310 said:
http://www.lowes.com/pd_195931-10742-TL ... nd%2Bblade
Depending on how much you have to cut, I would look into renting a wet masonry saw. It will be faster and much more comfortable to use, since you stand at the saw and push the paver through the stationary blade rather than stooping down and pushing a shaky hand-held circular saw.
I would also opt for a "WET" masonry saw. Dry will get DUST everywhere including inside you. I've got a hand held wet masonry saw ($1000) Husqvarna and I probably cut 3 pieces the entire time dry and won't do that again. I have already put in over 20 pallets of wall and caps and block. I've used that saw for many different things and was a true "Good" purchase. Cutting pavers with the saw would be a little tougher than wall material.
I have one of those cheap Ryobi tile/stone saws from Depot (around $100, as I recall) that works fine for that kind of work. Has a diamond blade, runs water through it to keep it all cool. Works good on tile, concrete, bricks, you name it. I'd check Craigslist if I were you for something like that. When I cut down some thick pavers to make ends and edges, they cut in about 30 seconds each.
Denis
Denis
I bought a 10 inch dry diamond masonry blade and and used it in my chop saw. It did create alot of dust but I used a fan to push the dust away from my work area. One blade did my whole project of approximately 400 cuts of concrete pavers. I agree with denis my cuts took about 30 seconds per cut.
A wet saw certainly has the benefits that have been noted. A wet saw will also help keep the blade cool. If the blade overheats and is overstressed, it can warp and be ruined.
There are several types of blades, "Segmented", "Continuous standard" "Continuous tile". The segmented is best for heavy cutting where the smoothness of the cut is not too important. The standard continuous "turbo" rim provides a smoother cut. The smooth "tile" blade gives the smoothest cut. The "tile" blade is thinner and is more prone to overheating and warping if used dry.
If you choose to use a dry blade, then a proper dust mask should be used. Eye protection should also be used.
http://www.walmart.com/search/search-ng ... nstraint=0
There are several types of blades, "Segmented", "Continuous standard" "Continuous tile". The segmented is best for heavy cutting where the smoothness of the cut is not too important. The standard continuous "turbo" rim provides a smoother cut. The smooth "tile" blade gives the smoothest cut. The "tile" blade is thinner and is more prone to overheating and warping if used dry.
If you choose to use a dry blade, then a proper dust mask should be used. Eye protection should also be used.
http://www.walmart.com/search/search-ng ... nstraint=0
jasonknox said:
How much did the blade cost and where did you purchase it? No problems with heat using it dry?
I also use a little ryobi angle cutter with a diamond blade to cut angles or curves. Works fine. Just generates a LOT of dust. Bought both from Home Depot.
archer_310 said:
I bought it at Lowes and if my memory is correct it was under 50 dollars and was the Dewalt Brand. I had no heat problem while using it dry.