I hope to be able to hardwire my electrical this spring, with switches controlling the receptacles. I am getting a SWG and would like to know if I should hardwire that in the same switch with my pump so that when the pump is on, the swg is on, or should it be on a separate switch that operates freely from the pump? I was also thinking of putting the pump on an outdoor timer, so would the switches be overkill anyways? Thanks.
hard wire electrical
- Thread starter Jeff74
- Start date
Wire it with the pump, its a simple way to make sure you are not generating while the pump is on...
It is very nice to have a master kill switch. In many situations such a switch is required. In some setups the timer can count as the kill switch, but I like having a separate switch. A separate switch is more obvious in an emergency and there are often things that the timer doesn't control. It is nice to know that you are turning off everything with the master switch and don't need to worry about anything else.
I like the idea of a kill switch, it will make it much easier when it is time to backwash. Our pump doesnt have a switch, only a cord.
Salp, isnt it the point to generate salt or chlorine while the pump IS on and NOT off? Anyone have some pics of their hard wiring, hard plumbing setup for AGP? Thanks.
Salp, isnt it the point to generate salt or chlorine while the pump IS on and NOT off? Anyone have some pics of their hard wiring, hard plumbing setup for AGP? Thanks.
Thats correct, when the pump is on, so is the SWCG. When the pump is OFF, you do not want to generate. Most systems have flow switches to determine if pump is running. But as an added safety, depending on which system you use, I would have the SWCG powered only when the pump is powered.
If I were to have both the swg and pump on a timer to be used at the same time, would I even need to use the timer that comes on the swg? I was planning on getting the http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002V1H11C/ref=ord_cart_shr?ie=UTF8&m=ATVPDKIKX0DER?
I am not familiar with that model, but most have a percentage setting and usually run while the pump is circulating. In any case, If it was mine, I would run mine on my mechanical (or digital) timer switch to only come on when the pump is on!
Just my two cents...
Just my two cents...
Depending on your wiring/electrical skills, I like having a switch for every device (pump timer is switch for pumps) as well as a separate breaker when called for (heat pump, filter pump, booster pump, accessories for example), but one should also use relays so that certain devices can not be allowed to be running unless other devices are actively running. So in a sense, absolute hard wiring is a complete no go. It is unsafe, against code, and provides no control of individual equipment. Switches, Timers, Breakers, and Relays are all part of a properly hardwired pool pad. I have a 100 amp main breaker on the top of my breaker box that kills power to everything on the pad or around the pool.
This doesn't mean that the SWG can't be put on a relay that is only hot when the pump is on with a switch between the relay and the SWG so the SWG can be powered off separately to just turn it off or change a cell, but the relay prevents powering on unless the pump is running. And the reason the switch HAS to be there (unless its on its own breaker) is that the SWG still needs to be switched off when the pump is running in any mode other then Filter! This method also allows each piece of equipment to be on the proper size breaker for its maximum draw. All corded plugs will be eliminated so it will be considered to be properly hardwired with its own switch, relay when needed, and on a proper breaker. One can use the breaker as the device switch if one wants to eliminate the additional switches.
This doesn't mean that the SWG can't be put on a relay that is only hot when the pump is on with a switch between the relay and the SWG so the SWG can be powered off separately to just turn it off or change a cell, but the relay prevents powering on unless the pump is running. And the reason the switch HAS to be there (unless its on its own breaker) is that the SWG still needs to be switched off when the pump is running in any mode other then Filter! This method also allows each piece of equipment to be on the proper size breaker for its maximum draw. All corded plugs will be eliminated so it will be considered to be properly hardwired with its own switch, relay when needed, and on a proper breaker. One can use the breaker as the device switch if one wants to eliminate the additional switches.
iPhone, for large complicated setups much of what you say is true. But for a simple above ground pool with a pump and a SWG you are not correct. For a simple above ground pool, as discussed in this topic, the breaker is probably in the house, nowhere near the pool, and a single physical switch is just about ideal. As long as you follow normal wiring procedures and the switch rating is sufficient for the pump, it will meet code just about everywhere.
JasonLion said:
Thanks Jason, didn't notice it was an Above Ground Pool. I just glanced and saw Hayward Equipment and assumed it was an inground. Need to read more carefully before typing. Being a retired EE, I get nervous about electrical jury rigging of pool equipment. Again thanks for watching out.