White Film on Tiles and Stone - SR3 Where to Purchase?

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T

thetinkerer

0
Feb 25, 2011
67
Dallas Texas
I had my mortar joints repointed on my pool last week by a professional. I asked him how I could remove the white film on my tiles and he recommended a product called SR3 (in a gel).

I tried to purchase it but I cannot find a place that sells it...

So I need help in finding out where I can purchase this product.

Here is a link to the product.

http://www.getsr3.com/SR3.cfm

When I called this company they told me they only sell to contractors..

Thanks in Advance..
 
Welcome to TFP :wave:

Seems the SR3 is just an acidic gel containing muratic acid. Muratic acid can be found in the paint aisle of your local hardware store in liquid form. Follow the dilution instructions on the MA bottle for cleaning masonry and use an industrial spray bottle to apply above the water line, then rinse with water. With either product just make sure to take proper saftey precautions (eg.goggles, gloves, etc) when cleaning. The white stuff is calcium scale and is likely occuring due to your water chemistry. If you could post a full set of test results, we should be able to help you combat this from ocurring frequently...and the key would be to not let your PH rise over 7.8, as higher PH promotes scaling in pools with high CH :goodjob:
 
I also have this white film I guess I will call it on the natural stones infront of the jacuzzi (water flows over them).

Would MA be the best way to remove the white film there also..? I've used it before and it seems to be less effective on the stones (maybe because of the porousity of the stones??

Thanks again !!
 
Your welcome...nope not a typo, I meant CH or Calcium Hardness..I just did not explain that well enough :oops: . Your pool water calcium hardness or CH is likely high and that coupled with high PH causing calcium scaling...aka " the white stuff" where stone/tile goes through wet/dry cycles or in more extreme cases throught the entire pool :shock:

MA should be able to remove it well, but prevention by keeping PH below 7.8 at all times will help avoid it from ocurring in the future :goodjob:
 
Hi, I am back with my pool water readings:
TC at 3
CH at 450
CYA at 100
TA at 100
PH at 7.5

Water is cloudy because I had the mortar in joints around pool taken out and replaced. Ive been running my filter for a day then taking out DE grid filter and hosing off then replace and repeat until only slight pressure rise in tank (no more sediment found on grid filters). Once grids are clean after running filter for a day or so then I will add DE to the filter and water should clear up (its cloudy now).

Thanks so very much !

I use www.poolcalcuator.com and sounds like I need more CL and to bring CYA and CH down looks like I have to replace water :-(
 
I checked my CH finally and it is around 250. I checked my FC and found it to be essentially zero and my CYA is about 100. I went to the pool calculator with all my numbers, FC=~0 to .5, CH=250, CYA=100, TA=80, PH=8.2 and found that I needed to add 46 oz of liquid Cl and 24 oz of Muratic Acid. So I went ahead and added the Cl and Muratic Acid and checked the water within 10 minutes with the pump running. I found the Cl to be 2 ppm and the ph dropped to 7 (wanted a bit lower to rid myself of the white on the tiles). So about an hour later I check Cl again and its back to about zero......so I read alot of what frustratedpoolmon wrote and I find that Ive got to get my CYA down so that i dont have to add as much Cl to keep algae under control but it still seems that something is gobbling up my Cl. I need to test for CC and make sure it is low around .5 or so.....but right now I am draining ~20% of the pool water and refilling - I need to do this until my CYA is about 30 or so then I will take readings again and see where I am at...................does this make sense or ????? Thank you so much for your time and expertise...really weird how all that CL I put in is just gone.....??
 
Try to get your CYA down to around 60...30 would be easier to shock, but 60 is still manageable :goodjob: Your chlorine is being used up by organics if CYA is in fact 100 and attempting to shock at that CYA level is a very hard task :goodjob: You are understanding what FPM stated very much :goodjob:
 
Thanks for getting back to me I much appreciate everyones help... ok so yesterday I drained my jacuzzi and took the pool level down about 18" - more than that and I get very concerned that something bad could happen...so I limit the amount of water drained at one time to that....I then filled her back up late last night...does all this sound ok so I dont damage the pool - we live near dallas and it is an in ground 8700 gallon pool gunite...

I am going to repeat this until I get the CYA down to about 30 to 40 ...once there I will take a full set of readings..and report back....I am concerned that when I dump in 10% liquid Cl from Lowe's that it will be consumed very quickly.....

So if my CC is high shouldn't shocking with liquid Cl take the CC down to 0 - 0.5 or so and then the FC should hold at around 2 to 3 (what is on the chart for CYA vs FC) ? Oh and also I am using a the Liquidator to Chlorinate since I ve learned that the hockey pucks and shock treatments just add more CYAs.........Does all this make sense?
 

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Ok I just took readings using th T-100 test kit that I ordered a few months ago. Here are the numbers after doing a couple of drains and refils over the weekend. CYA = 45, FC = .5, CC = .5, ph=7.6, Al = 120 and CH= 150.....so I think I am good although I would like to get my CYA to between 35 and 45.....
I then used the pool calculator and found that for my 8700 gallon pool my CSI= -.01....so I think I should at this point be very pleased with these numbers???

I now will add about 45 oz of liquid Cl to bring me up to 3 ppm for FC....I should not have to shock because my CC is low ~ 0.5

Am I correct in my thinking....???

TIA

Oh and also I expect to add the Cl and not see it dissappear as I did before since my CC is now very low...
Thanks so much for your help... :party:
 
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