Cell not generating

Feb 21, 2011
5
I have a Aqua-Rite system, Model AQ-Rite. My pool had begun to get cloudy so I checked the Goldline Control box and neither the 'Power' nor 'Generating' lights were on, salt level was reading 2900. I shut the system off, sprayed out the cell, and restarted the system. After about 30 seconds both the 'Power' and 'Generating' lights came on but only for about 15 seconds and then both shut off. I restarted the system and this time watched the 'Cell Voltage". With it reached approx. 17.0 volts both lights came on but the Voltage contuinued to rise until it reached about 19.0 volts, then the system shut down, voltage dropped to 1.1 volts and began to climb again. This cycle continues endlessly. During this time the 'Cell Amperage' remained at zero.

I read one thread on this board that seemed to apply to this, but all the voltages referenced in that thread were low voltages (14.4 or so). It suggested that it was the Current Limiter on the PCB board that had failed. Seems to me that the high voltage would/could be caused by the same part failure. Not an Electrical Engineer, though I am comfortable working on borads! Does this sound plausible?

Thanks for help and suggestions.

Brad
 
Goldline/Hayward systems should only scale back on chlorine production once the water temp hits 60 degrees. At 60 the unit scales down to 20% output. I believe at 50 degrees it shuts down.

If you comfortable fooling with boards then I would take the normal electrical safety precautions of cutting power to the system and then opening the box to inspect the PCB for visible damage. It's common to see burn marks somewhere on these boards, they tend to overheat a bit in my experience.

For reference: Normal operating voltage should fall in between 22.0-26.0v when producing chlorine. Normal operating amps would be 4.80-7.90 when producing chlorine. If the cell is off or not producing chlorine the amps would fall in the 0.0-0.1 range.
 
I plan on looking at the board this evening after work. So, the voltage reaching 19.0 volts is still a low voltage issue, not a high voltage? I assumed that when the lights kicked on at 17.0 volts it was an 18 volt system.
 
Examined to PCB and there does seem to be some burn marks on/around the contact points of the current limiter. Ordered and recieved replacments from Digi-Key. Planning on surgery this weekend.
 
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