Pump timer does not keep time

AB

0
Jan 18, 2011
75
Houston, TX
Hello,
I recently inherited a ~12 y.o. pool and am new to the world of pool maintenance. I have read many of the pool school articles but was wondering if anyone could assist with a pool timer question.

My pump timer doesn't seem to turn - eg always says ~2pm. It is an analog timer so it never hits the timer dogs to turn off/on.
Is there a way to diagnose the issue other than replacing the timer?

Also, the pool has a Kreepy Krauly cleaner. When I turn the pool pump off and then on, it starts the cleaner running. But sometimes the cleaner just stops, not sure why.
Does the Kreepy Krauly run always, as long as the pump is running? Or is there a separate time/schedule that I can set the cleaner to run for. I am guessing the cleaner should not run 12-24 hours/day?

Thanks for your help,
Aaron.
 
The first thing to do is insure you have power to the timer. If you do then it's most likely the timer motor. Either a bad motor or stripped gears.

Knowing what timer you have might help but they're all pretty common when it comes to the motor parts.
 
The Intermatic (most common brand) mechanical timers have an oval hole at top center over one of the faster moving gears. You will probably see that it is stationary.

If you are comfortable with electric work, verify that the two motor wires (usually thin and white) are connected to the two LINE terminal screws. If you have a test lamp and know how to use it, verify that power is present at these screws when the pump is turned off at the timer. If not, some dufus has probably switched the LINE and LOAD wires. In this case, the timer will turn the pump off, but never turn it on because the timer motor loses power when the pump trips off.

If you have power at the thin white wires, but the gear behind the oval hole is not moving, then you need a new motor. If things look really rusted/corroded, you might have a gear problem, but this is a long shot otherwise. Obviously, turn power off at the breaker and test the wires for presence of voltage before attempting to remove the timer mechanics. Label the wires so you don't make the mistake described above. If any of this makes you uncomfortable, call a pro.
 
Hello,
I have attached some pictures of the timer. As you mentioned it is an Intermatic. I did not see an oval hole over one of the moving gears but I may have overlooked it. Unfortunately I am not too handy with electricity :hammer:

Does the line/load switch look set appropriately?

Thanks, Aaron[attachment=0:i0du1dh2]timer intermatic lbl.JPG[/attachment:i0du1dh2][attachment=1:i0du1dh2]timer.JPG[/attachment:i0du1dh2]
 

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Just for the record, the gear should be visible through the hole at about 4AM on the yellow dial. That is not a Line/load switch, it's an ON/OFF switch (see top printed line on plastic cover) and it will go wherever you, or the time dogs push it. The Line and Load markings lower down refer to the wire terminals behind the plastic cover.

But yeah, call a pro, or at least a handy friend. Not worth getting killed over. A 240V jolt can ruin your day.
 
Hello, thanks to all for the advice. Had a Leslies guy come out and he found that a 220v timer is installed, but pool pump/all other equip runs on 110! Doh...basically it has never worked!

He suggested converting the pumps to 220 in order to save $ on electricity costs...anyone have an idea how much I could save by converting these? Would also need an electrician to convert the breaker to 220 as well.
Thanks!
 
You won't really save money. A 220V motor will use half the current of the 110V motor. You pay for power, in watts, and basically, power will be voltage X current, and if you double the voltage and halve the current, you still use the same power.

The real reason to use higher voltages is because there is less current drawn, and that reduces the loss in the wire, allowing for smaller wire size for a given power consumption. This is why long distance transmission is done with thousands of volts, so that for the megawatts needed, they can use a realistic cabling size.

In your case, you have everything already wired for 120V. Stay with it.
 

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^^^^What he said, then get a pro to replace the 220V timer clock motor with a 110V one, and wire the one hot line through one side of the timer if you want it to work.. I'm guessing the dimwit that installed that 220V timer installed it so it breaks both the 110V hot and the neutral, which will work but is not really kosher. The neutral should not be switched.
 
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