Salt content is 4700 PPM. How much water do I drain?

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niceguymr

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May 28, 2010
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My pool is 11,000 gallons with an attached spa. My salt reading is 4700 but my SWG requires 3500. About how much water (in inches) would I need to drain to bring my salt down to 3500? My pool is kidney shaped and 6' deep at the deep end. I'm not looking for an exact figure, just a roundabout idea as to how much water I need to drain.
 
Is your salt reading from a test kit or your SWCG readout? If it's from the SWCG, verify it before you remove any water.

You need to remove about 1/4 of your 4700ppm to get to 3500ppm. That means you need to remove 25% of your water and replace it with fresh water. Don't do anything until you are certain of the reading though.
 
JohnT said:
Is your salt reading from a test kit or your SWCG readout? If it's from the SWCG, verify it before you remove any water.

You need to remove about 1/4 of your 4700ppm to get to 3500ppm. That means you need to remove 25% of your water and replace it with fresh water. Don't do anything until you are certain of the reading though.
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Actually, my SWCG reads 6600. I contacted Compu Pool (the maker of my SWCG) and they suggested that it might need to be recalibrated. I brought a sample of my water to 3 different places this afternoon and got the same reading from all of them - 4700ppm. I even bought a pack of the test strips and tested it again when I got home and got the same reading +/-50. So I'm pretty confident in the 4700 value.

Separately (in another post), I'm trying to figure out how to recalibrate my unit to give me the correct reading. I intend to recalibrate it PRIOR to emptying and replacing any water.
 
Related question:

Is there an estimated amount of time that should elapse after adding the initial load of salt before the salt content of the pool is... stablilized (for lack of a better word). The reason I'm asking this is because I just got off the phone with tech support at Compu Pool (who incidentally has been very nice to deal with) and they recommend giving it at least a few more days before recalibrating or changing/replacing some of the water.
 
> estimated amount of time that should elapse after adding the initial load of salt before the salt content of the pool is... stablilized

I've read these directions which imply that most is immediately dissolved depending on the type you use (I purchase mine at Home Depot, 60 LBS for about $5 / bag).

The water softener type takes a little longer to dissolve, perhaps 24-48 hours but I run my pump 24 hours / day (at 90 watts / 875 rpm).

What is most important when adding salt is to brush it around until it is dissolved. This is accelerated by turning your pump on, opening the bottom drain and adding the salt over the drain, rather than walking around the perimeter while adding the salt. It is recommended that you continue to run the pump for 24 hours so the salt can spread evenly throughout the pool. With Granular salt, 60 - 70% will have dissolved before hitting bottom. The remaining salt can simply be brushed into the drain which will then complete dissolution. With all other forms of salt, it will take longer to dissolve but the same process will accelerate the dissolve rate. Simply brush the salt in a pyramid pattern over the drain to increase dissolution.
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Will your generator NOT run at 4700 ppm salt? Did the company advise you to lower the salt level?

Is the high salt light on?

While 4700ppm may not be exactly optimal, as long as its running and making chlorine, I would mess with it. The salt level will come down on its own with splash out and rain dilution. These things work over a wide range of salt. I've found that if it aint broke, dont fix it works pretty well with these kinds of thngs. I know its new to you and you're inclined to worry about every little thing at first, but really, dont sweat it unless it's not working.
 
> owners manual does not have instructions on recalibrating the unit

if phone tech support also was not helpful it may be like a pentair intellichlor which can only be calibrated at factory. about the only item a user can do is to open unions, inspect and clean, if needed.
 

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Version should be on the side label. But why do you need to do this? Unless the thing is really out of whack, you shouldnt mess with it. Once its field calibrated, you cant restore the factory settings. Besides, yours in under warrenty anyway.

I dont want to get off topic here from the OP's original question, however.
 
yes, agreed, sorry about momentary off topic discussion and intention was not to hijack OP thread.

my IC40 does not have any type of identification material or version sticky attached as it was custom built at the local factory down here (pentair facility about 1 hour away..) and I paid just peanuts for it.

thanks again.

...back to the OP question, did you ask the tech support if unit can be calibrated ? have you cleaned out the cell as per their directions (likely a version of the mild acid rinse..) ?
 
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