I pull the springs out of them as well and let gravity close it when the system shuts down. The water pressure will open the valve more easily without the spring, and the water coming back will close it just fine. The intent is to let the water flow when you need it, and close when you don't. The spring is kind of redundant, in my opinion.
Wimpy waterfall
- Thread starter restoman
- Start date
- May 3, 2007
- 16,964
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
That is even more helpful with a variable/two speed pump on lower speeds because the head loss is proportionaly higher on low speeds with the valve partially closed.
Problem. It seems that Jandy check valves only comes in a 1.5"x2" or a 2"x2.5" configuration. The one on there now is a 2" x 2", so I won't be able to get the Jandy. Anyone have another suggestion other than the white spring loaded type?
Ed
Ed
No, that means 2" - 2.5". That means it can be used for both. 2" fits inside, 2.5" fits outside.
OH! Now I see said the blind man.
One other question Sal. I see that this is a different type of material than the white spring loaded type. What kind of glue will I need to use on this one? Can I just stick with the regular old PVC cement or will I have to use something else to attach it to my pipes?
Also, the one on there now says "vertical use" on it. Does the Jandy mount vertical or horizontal or either way?
Ed
One other question Sal. I see that this is a different type of material than the white spring loaded type. What kind of glue will I need to use on this one? Can I just stick with the regular old PVC cement or will I have to use something else to attach it to my pipes?
Also, the one on there now says "vertical use" on it. Does the Jandy mount vertical or horizontal or either way?
Ed
You need a Jandy Check Valve model #7305. Make sure its a Jandy, PM me for more info!
Okay, I got the new valve from Sal yesterday (THANK YOU!!), but now I'm not sure where to mount it!
HERE'S A PICTURE of my setup taken from above. You can see that the original (HOPEFULLY "defective" valve) is mounted vertically, but the JANDY INSTRUCTIONS recommend a minimum of 16" water column for the valve to work properly. If I put it where the old valve is, that's only 7 or 8 inches, so now I'm thinking I'll need to mount it on the horizontal pipe that comes from the heater. (That still won't give me 16", but it'll be a lot better than 7 or 8 inches.)
So looking at the picture of my setup, what do you think of my location? Is it too close to the heater? If it is, I guess I could move that support over to where I want to install the valve and then put the valve where the support leg currently is.
Comments?
Ed
HERE'S A PICTURE of my setup taken from above. You can see that the original (HOPEFULLY "defective" valve) is mounted vertically, but the JANDY INSTRUCTIONS recommend a minimum of 16" water column for the valve to work properly. If I put it where the old valve is, that's only 7 or 8 inches, so now I'm thinking I'll need to mount it on the horizontal pipe that comes from the heater. (That still won't give me 16", but it'll be a lot better than 7 or 8 inches.)
So looking at the picture of my setup, what do you think of my location? Is it too close to the heater? If it is, I guess I could move that support over to where I want to install the valve and then put the valve where the support leg currently is.
Comments?
Ed
Can you take a picture from the front of the equipment, Ed? That would give a better perspective of what you have.
Bruce, I didn't think I would get any answers since today is Saturday, so I went ahead and took a chance because I wanted to get this done!
HERE'S THE PICTURE you wanted from the front, and HERE'S THE PICTURE from the top with the NEW valve installed. I went with my gut and placed it about a foot away from the heater instead of trying to putz with it in the original location since the original location didn't allow a 16" water column. I hope that's alright, but if it's not, let me know and I'll move it.
And by the way, even though I have to wait another hour before I can test the system (and another 24 hours before I can go back online), I think that may have been the problem. Take a look at the ORIGINAL VALVE!! You can see the flapper has broken off and is rattling around inside the housing! I'm assuming (HOPING) that the water pressure was pushing it up to the top of the check valve and not allowing water to flow through. I'll let you know in an hour if it's now working or not.
Ed
HERE'S THE PICTURE you wanted from the front, and HERE'S THE PICTURE from the top with the NEW valve installed. I went with my gut and placed it about a foot away from the heater instead of trying to putz with it in the original location since the original location didn't allow a 16" water column. I hope that's alright, but if it's not, let me know and I'll move it.
And by the way, even though I have to wait another hour before I can test the system (and another 24 hours before I can go back online), I think that may have been the problem. Take a look at the ORIGINAL VALVE!! You can see the flapper has broken off and is rattling around inside the housing! I'm assuming (HOPING) that the water pressure was pushing it up to the top of the check valve and not allowing water to flow through. I'll let you know in an hour if it's now working or not.
Ed
SUCCESS!! After replacing the check valve and letting the plumbing sit for a few hours for the glue to dry, I started it up and viola, we now have a good waterfall spilling over the jacuuzi into the pool, and the "No Flow" light has gone out! So it looks like it was indeed that check valve.
I'd like to thank all that responded, especially Sal and Brian for all their help. You guys are great.
Ed
I'd like to thank all that responded, especially Sal and Brian for all their help. You guys are great.
Ed
Great job, Ed!! It will work just fine where you have it, and you can see how easy it will be to rebuild if you ever need to 
Did you take the spring off of the flapper
Did you take the spring off of the flapper
Will do Sal. Again, thank you VERY much for all your help. I really appreciate it.
Ed
Ed
Pull the spring 
Water flows better with less resistance than with more.
I'd just keep an eye on it. If you see it is not opening all the way, then pull the spring and it will. I don't like the springs 'cuz they rust also over time.
Water flows better with less resistance than with more.I'd just keep an eye on it. If you see it is not opening all the way, then pull the spring and it will. I don't like the springs 'cuz they rust also over time.
Bruce, it is opening all the way, so I'll keep an eye on it. The system is now running, and the only lights that are on are the Power and the Generating. However, the reading is now at 3600, so is that too high?
Ed
Ed
Most systems like 2800-3200 ppm salt. You may be a little high, but will probably lose that with splash out once the season starts again. You are not corrosive, so I wouldn't worry about it. I also wouldn't trust what the cell reads either! If you can get a more accurate test (I've observed that the salt systems often give erroneous salt readings) that would be good.
Ok Bruce. I'll take a cup of water down to Cal West Pools and Spas and see what they read.
Ed
Ed