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Thread: Closing an in ground pool

  1. #81
    Senior Member X-PertPool's Avatar
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    Re: Closing an in ground pool

    here are some pictures of the ways we do things.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    -Kevin
    X-Pert Pool Service
    x-pertpool.com
    X-Pert Pool on Facebook and @XPertPoolServic on Twitter
    22,000 gal / 16' x 32' / Vinyl / Hayward s244t /Pentair SuperFlo 1 hp

  2. #82
    Senior Member gkruske's Avatar
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    Re: Closing an in ground pool

    Quote Originally Posted by waste
    Closing off the other valves (so as not to waste the antifreeze in them) is a very good idea

    You are lucky to be able to do that

    I'd just 'reblow' the MD and forget about it for the winter



    If you still are worried about it, either ask more here or just work your way through a 6 - pack until it doesn't bother you

    Hope to see you over the winter, if not, we'll see you next spring
    Good one! Glad I didn't do any drinking during this time-consuming chore...I'd probably have more to deal with than just a MD!

    Anyway, yes, I am lucky to have valves on each run. I'll blow the MD again, and dump another gallon or 2 of antifreeze in, and pump it through. Also lucky to have found a farm supply close to home that is selling it for 2.49/gallon!

    Already thinking about this procedure next year. I used my consumer-rated Craftsman compressor to do this this year. I WON'T be using it again. Not powerful enough. So, I'm already shopping around for a good Shop-vac. I have one already, however, it doesn't reverse. Just vacuums. I've noticed that the most affordable, highest-rated, consumer-based shop-vacs are about 6.5 HP. I'm assuming this is more than enough to blast through all the lines. I just need something that I don't have to wait on to recover.
    Kansas City, MO
    13500 gallon Foxx vinyl sport pool--inground (1988)
    Cristal-Flo sand filter
    Ray-Pak 406A digital
    1.5 HP single speed
    400 gallon Heldor inground spa, octagon

  3. #83
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    Re: Closing an in ground pool

    .....and dump another gallon or 2 of antifreeze in, and pump it through. Also lucky to have found a farm supply close to home that is selling it for 2.49/gallon!

    Great info ! Probably others can save as well

    Already thinking about this procedure next year. I used my consumer-rated Craftsman compressor to do this this year. I WON'T be using it again. Not powerful enough. So, I'm already shopping around for a good Shop-vac. I have one already, however, it doesn't reverse. Just vacuums. I've noticed that the most affordable, highest-rated, consumer-based shop-vacs are about 6.5 HP. I'm assuming this is more than enough to blast through all the lines. I just need something that I don't have to wait on to recover.[/quote]


    Reverse is unneeded I think, hook a hose to the exhaust.
    19,800 gallons (closed/winter 18,654 gal); plaster; 18x34 Ft kidney bean shape, Depth 3Ft-5Ft. Built 1992
    Pentair Whisper Flow Pump 1HP. Winter safety cover w anchors.
    Sand filter, Pentair Sand Dollar Top Mount Model SD80; Effective Filtration Area 3.5SF
    - FlowRate 75GPM, 8Hr 36,000, 10Hr 45,000, 12Hr 54,000; Pressure Weight 50PSI
    BBB (Hayward Chlorinator when leave town). Polaris 360 cleaner.

  4. #84
    Senior Member gkruske's Avatar
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    Re: Closing an in ground pool

    Yep, that's what I was meaning.
    Kansas City, MO
    13500 gallon Foxx vinyl sport pool--inground (1988)
    Cristal-Flo sand filter
    Ray-Pak 406A digital
    1.5 HP single speed
    400 gallon Heldor inground spa, octagon

  5. #85
    Member jwfrank's Avatar
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    Re: Closing an in ground pool

    I have noticed with the Pool Calculator that water temperature influences the CSI, all other variables staying the same

    With my pool chemistry, cooler water temp of 2 degrees centigrade increases acidity by .03, according to Pool Calc

    Question: given the above, and given that winter water temp will be in range of 6 to 12 degrees C, should I build this into the pH and TA target measurements at which I leave the pool when I cover?

    present measurements
    pH 7.7
    TA 70
    CYA 55
    CH 350
    Borates 50
    water temp 18 degrees C
    CSI = -.22

    But if water temp = 8 degrees, CSI= -.39

    Seems that pool would be "happier" with a TA of 100 or even 110, with cool winter water temps (CSI - -.11 at 8 degrees C and TA of 110)

  6. #86
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    Re: Closing an in ground pool

    Questions:
    Pool store guy mentioned:
    1- Once the pump is Off & things are drained as you desire etc, “position the Multiport Valve between any 2 settings”.
    Make sense or irrelevant?

    2- “Put the Multiport at the Re-circulate setting when you blow out the lines to bypass the DE filter so you aren’t pumping air in the DE can.”
    I don’t have a Re-circulate setting on my Multiport; my settings are: Filter & Vacuum to Pool, Filter to Waste , Drain & Vacuum To Waste, Auxiliary Circulation, Winterize, To Remove Handle, Backwash.
    My multiport should be on what setting when I blow out the lines?

    Thanks
    19,800 gallons (closed/winter 18,654 gal); plaster; 18x34 Ft kidney bean shape, Depth 3Ft-5Ft. Built 1992
    Pentair Whisper Flow Pump 1HP. Winter safety cover w anchors.
    Sand filter, Pentair Sand Dollar Top Mount Model SD80; Effective Filtration Area 3.5SF
    - FlowRate 75GPM, 8Hr 36,000, 10Hr 45,000, 12Hr 54,000; Pressure Weight 50PSI
    BBB (Hayward Chlorinator when leave town). Polaris 360 cleaner.

  7. #87
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    Re: Closing an in ground pool

    Quote Originally Posted by jwfrank
    I have noticed with the Pool Calculator that water temperature influences the CSI, all other variables staying the same

    With my pool chemistry, cooler water temp of 2 degrees centigrade increases acidity by .03, according to Pool Calc

    Question: given the above, and given that winter water temp will be in range of 6 to 12 degrees C, should I build this into the pH and TA target measurements at which I leave the pool when I cover?
    :
    As the water gets colder, the pH will rise, all else equal. So the CSI won't decrease as much as you think as the temperature drops. If I use your starting numbers, then I get a CSI of -0.17 using my spreadsheet and if I only change the temperature down to 8ºC then the CSI drops to -0.32 but as the temperature drops the pH will rise to 7.83 so the CSI will actually only drop to -0.20.

    So the general rule is just to close with numbers that seem reasonable and then as the temperature drops the water will adjust automatically and tend to keep the same CSI. Just don't try and lower the pH back down as the temperature drops -- let the water's pH rise a little as noted above. You could certainly raise your TA to 90 ppm if you wanted the CSI closer to 0, but it's not a big deal.

    JohnnyB, I hope someone else answers your questions in your post before this one -- I don't know the answers to them myself.

    Richard
    16,000 gallon outdoor in-ground 16'x32' plaster pool; Pentair Intelliflo VF pump; Pentair IntelliTouch i9+3s control system; Jandy CL-340 square foot cartridge filter
    12 Fafco solar panels; Purex Triton PowerMax 250 natural gas heater (200,000 BTU/hr output); automatic electric pool safety cover; 4-wheel pressure-side "The Pool Cleaner"

  8. #88
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    Re: Closing an in ground pool

    Mr. Goode

    Try the Aux circ. to blow the lines (it sounds like "recirc", given the 'weird' labling of the other lines)

    As long as you can blow all the lines - you'll be fine [BTW - the multiport 'functions' you post are NOT realistic ]

    As for the 'in between any 2 settings - that is the correct way to leave the multiport for the winter

    Have a great winter!! I hope to see you around over the winter, if not, I expect to see you here next spring
    Luv& Luk
    -Ted

    Having done construction and service for 4 pool companies in 4 states starting in 1988, what I know about pools could fill a couple of books - what I don't know could fill a couple of libraries :-D

    POOL SCHOOL, TF Testkits, Jason's Pool Calculator, CYA vs. cl chart, (Just a few DARNED handy links!)

  9. #89
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    Re: Closing an in ground pool

    Hi everyone, I am having trouble blowing out the lines, i cant get anything to come out of them. I am guessing that my vacuum does not blow enough volume.. so i called the pool store and they are going to come out and JUST blow the lines out.. but he said something that i have not read or heard on here... He said the water level should be 16 inches from the normal level to help support the weight on the cover... I have a loop n lock cover.. the company that built the pool did it last year and i really don't remember where the level was this spring when i opened the pool.... so I am a little confused to as where to have the water level... any help with this would be a great help.....
    thanks
    live in eastern washington state
    18x36, Vinyl inground 24k
    Hayward 1 hp filter pump
    1 skimmer/2 returns
    24" sand filter, polaris 280 with booster pump.

  10. #90
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    Re: Closing an in ground pool

    There are a couple different ways to blow the lines, depending on where you want to lower your water level to. You can leave the pool full and plug the return lines while they are 'bubbling' - this can get the person plugging the lines VERY wet A lot of folks, who don't have 'ground water' issues, drop the pool level to below the returns and have a much drier experience plugging them (skimmers, main drains and other wall suction ports can be done with the water up, it just takes a little more - I'll tell you if you need, but the info is on the site )

    You certainly want to keep the cover's warranty in tact, most returns are ~ 14.5" down on the wall and the coping is usually 2" so you'd be safe draining to the bottom of the returns without violating the cover's requirement

    If you have more questions, we're here to answer
    Luv& Luk
    -Ted

    Having done construction and service for 4 pool companies in 4 states starting in 1988, what I know about pools could fill a couple of books - what I don't know could fill a couple of libraries :-D

    POOL SCHOOL, TF Testkits, Jason's Pool Calculator, CYA vs. cl chart, (Just a few DARNED handy links!)

  11. #91
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    Re: Closing an in ground pool

    I am not going to close my pool and I know I should run my pump when it nears freezing temps. Should I also run my Booster Pump? Thanks

    KM
    18X38 Grecian 26000 gallon In Ground Vinyl. Goldline AuqaRite SWG with a 1.5 HP Pentair Pump. Triton 2 Sand Filter Two main drains with 4 main returns with 2 more returns on the swimout and two skimmers. Polaris 380

  12. #92
    Senior Member polyvue's Avatar
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    Re: Closing an in ground pool

    Quote Originally Posted by kenmccall
    I am not going to close my pool and I know I should run my pump when it nears freezing temps. Should I also run my Booster Pump?
    In Sacramento (similar to or slightly warmer winter temperatures than in central Georgia), the booster pump & pool cleaner operate when freeze protection mode kicks in at 38 F or so. On my system it doesn't have to be set up this way; in fact, when the temps are low for days at a time I try to remember turn it off (to save electricity and reduce the noise from having 2 pumps running at 3 AM.) In my area, it's usually the overnight lows that trigger this. Day time temps rarely do. I have wondered whether freeze protection is really necessary -- in Sacramento or Macon.
    14,555 gal in-ground 16'x29' white plaster Pool w/spa (2007); Goldline Aqua Logic AQL-PS-8 control w/Aqua Cell 15 Salt Water Chlorination (SWCG); Hayward TriStar 1HP (1.85 SF) main / 1.5HP (1.60 SF) spa pumps; Hayward Swimclear cart filter C4025, ColorLogic LED lights; Tankless SP-18-4 electric heater; Polaris 280 cleaner.
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    View of spiral galaxy in Ursa Major NGC6217 - Hubble Telescope 2009

  13. #93
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    Re: Closing an in ground pool

    Waste:
    "[BTW - the multiport 'functions' you post are NOT realistic"

    Not sure what you mean, they are as stated.
    Guess it doesn't matter since I know what setting to blow out the line & I have to replace my MPV next spring.

    Thanks for all the help this season.
    19,800 gallons (closed/winter 18,654 gal); plaster; 18x34 Ft kidney bean shape, Depth 3Ft-5Ft. Built 1992
    Pentair Whisper Flow Pump 1HP. Winter safety cover w anchors.
    Sand filter, Pentair Sand Dollar Top Mount Model SD80; Effective Filtration Area 3.5SF
    - FlowRate 75GPM, 8Hr 36,000, 10Hr 45,000, 12Hr 54,000; Pressure Weight 50PSI
    BBB (Hayward Chlorinator when leave town). Polaris 360 cleaner.

  14. #94

    Re: Closing an in ground pool

    I live in Arkansas and we do get below freezing but not for a long period of time. I plan to cover the pool and turn on the pump when it gets close to freezing. My question is what do I need to add before I put the cover on. As of now, the chemicals are where they need to be. Thank you so much for all your help.

  15. #95
    Senior Member polyvue's Avatar
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    Re: Closing an in ground pool

    Quote Originally Posted by farmerselectric
    I live in Arkansas and we do get below freezing but not for a long period of time. I plan to cover the pool and turn on the pump when it gets close to freezing. My question is what do I need to add before I put the cover on. As of now, the chemicals are where they need to be. Thank you so much for all your help.
    Is this an above ground or in-ground pool? Are you planning to test/treat the water after you cover it?

    I would think--if this is just a partial close and you're able to circulate and lift the cover off enough to fetch a pool water sample--that you don't have to add anything. Just test the water periodically and add chlorine and/or acid as needed. If you don't plan to test or treat, best to bring chlorine up to shock level (and, if you've had problems with spring algae blooms during previous seasons, you could add some Polyquat 60 algaecide.)
    14,555 gal in-ground 16'x29' white plaster Pool w/spa (2007); Goldline Aqua Logic AQL-PS-8 control w/Aqua Cell 15 Salt Water Chlorination (SWCG); Hayward TriStar 1HP (1.85 SF) main / 1.5HP (1.60 SF) spa pumps; Hayward Swimclear cart filter C4025, ColorLogic LED lights; Tankless SP-18-4 electric heater; Polaris 280 cleaner.
    __
    View of spiral galaxy in Ursa Major NGC6217 - Hubble Telescope 2009

  16. #96
    Senior Member Heckpools's Avatar
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    Re: Closing an in ground pool

    Almost that time of year again!!

    Sorry, i probably just depressed everyone here lol
    [center:3gj9kdnn]Matt Heck
    "HECK OF A POOL SERVICE LLC"
    Serving Ocean co. NJ
    COMPANY INFO BELOW
    http://maps.google.com/maps/place?hl=en ... 2995187987[/center:3gj9kdnn]

  17. #97
    Senior Member Heckpools's Avatar
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    Re: Closing an in ground pool

    Quote Originally Posted by X-PertPool
    here are some pictures of the ways we do things.
    ok, ive looked at this thing 10 times now, and im clueless as to what the **** it is... please explain lol

    How do you test a maindrain with it??? Are you refering to a maindrain thats plumbed into a skimmer?

    I said the H word, not the F one... just so everyone knows..no it wasnt HECK
    [center:3gj9kdnn]Matt Heck
    "HECK OF A POOL SERVICE LLC"
    Serving Ocean co. NJ
    COMPANY INFO BELOW
    http://maps.google.com/maps/place?hl=en ... 2995187987[/center:3gj9kdnn]

  18. #98
    Senior Member benavidescj's Avatar
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    Re: Closing an in ground pool

    Wow, it sure is hot down here in Florida. How is that closing going?

    Carlos
    Pool: 28,000 gallons IG; IC 40 SWG; Pentair 120 gpm cartridge filter; Marble finish; Pentair Wisperflow 1.5 hp; Polaris 360
    Spa: 350 gallon; Bromine
    How to shock your pool

  19. #99

    Re: Closing an in ground pool

    How do I use the "winterize" setting on my 7-way multiport valve, and we have a high water table and get lots of rain and snow, so draining below the return line just isn't feasable. I'm assuming I can just blow out the lines and plug them while bubbling, and add some anti-freeze. Also do I blow out the lines from the skimmers, with everything (pump and filter) still connected, and what setting should the multiport be on. Does the air blow through the sand in the sand filter or bypass it. As you can see I'm slightly confused. Thanks much in advance.
    20,000 gal., Jacuzzi 250L Laser Sand Filter, inground w/vinyl liner, 1hp pump motor, TF-100 Test Kit.

  20. #100
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    Re: Closing an in ground pool

    Hi everyone,
    I am new to a pool, and its about time to close it in North Jersey. I have been searching for a way to do this myself by blowing out the water in all the lines .. but my pool is not as simple as what I may be able to do.
    1) It has a DE with a push pull valve. I have no choise but blowing air through the filter? and this will be ok?
    2) I have Jandy Valve actuators over Jandy Valves, how do I manually switch the values?
    3) There is a Caretaker 5 zoon system, how do I clear the water in it by blowing air?

    Thanks a lot,
    Stevool.
    17' x 35' oval in-ground, vinyl liner 8' deep end approx 22K of water in pool, Pool Pilot DIG-220 SWG installed March 2007, Triton TR60 sand filter, Water Ace RSP10 pump 220v/1 Hp installed Mar. 2010

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