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Thread: pH and CYA

  1. Back To Top    #1
    Prav's Avatar
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    Nov 2010
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    pH and CYA

    Recently bought a house with a pool and have been immersed into BBB. So far, clear pool!

    Been lurking to this point, but I do want some feedback. I know... first, some numbers (off the top of my head since I don't know what I did with the Post-it!):

    FC: 5
    TA: 90
    CH: 200

    pH: 7.8

    CYA: 60

    My two questions:

    (1) pH just seems to always want to go to 7.8. At first, I was adding MA to bring it down to 7.4-7.6, but lately I've just left it there. I do have aeration from the waterfall (spa to pool). From the comments I have seen here on TFP, I have pretty much decided not to fight it - as long as it does not creep up to 8. Am I on the right track?

    (2) The CYA has crept up from 50 to 60 over the past month. Though we did have pretty heavy rains for October (which should have diluted), nothing major has fallen in November. Can it just be from evaporation? Or just misreading test? Guess at some point (70? 80?), I'll have to empty out and fill with regular water - or wait till rainy season comes back in May.

    Thanks in advance!
    14'x30' (est. 14K gal) w/spillover spa (est. 500 gal) - 1995 // Diamond Brite Blue Quartz - 2006
    Hayward SwimPure Plus T-15 - 2013 // Zodiac MX-8 - 2013
    Plain ol' Intermatic mechanical timer // Pump: 1 HP Pentair SuperFlo - 2012
    Filter: Hayward C17502(S) Cartridge Filter - 2011 // Heat Pump: Sunrunner/Aquapro 1300 (127K BTU) - 2011

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    dmanb2b's Avatar
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    Re: pH and CYA

    Welcome to TFP Prav

    Re: your CYA question, it is possible to mis-read the test by 10ppm, but I should ask, what is your current method of chlorination?

    On the PH. you are fine at 7.8, just keep a watchful eye on it. You may benefit by adding borates and lowering TA further to the 60-70 range, but if it's stable at 7.8, I wouldn't fight it given your CH is not that high.
    24'x52" AGP (13,500 Gallons), Intex SWG, (2)Solar Bear 4x20 panels, Hayward S220T Filter, 1/2hp Pentair Superflo

    Pool School, TFTestKits, Pool Calculator

  3. Back To Top    #3
    Prav's Avatar
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    Re: pH and CYA

    Not using pucks (learned about those evils here by reading the forum). Did a bit of cal-hypo when I inherited the pool since the CH was really low (<100 if I recall correctly), but then switched to Clorox 6% (easier to get since BJ's is open till later than pool store and don't have to worry about returning empties). Down the road, may get something more automated (SWG? Chlorinator?), but need to ease up on the major expenses for a bit!

    Not to hijack my own thread, but let me add another question: any issue with adding chlorine (though not enough to shock) in one shot and let it be used up rather than every other day (as I have been doing)? It would seem that as long as I am above the minimum for my CYA level, I should be fine with going to 9-10 and letting it get down to 5 before adding, right?

    Thanks!
    14'x30' (est. 14K gal) w/spillover spa (est. 500 gal) - 1995 // Diamond Brite Blue Quartz - 2006
    Hayward SwimPure Plus T-15 - 2013 // Zodiac MX-8 - 2013
    Plain ol' Intermatic mechanical timer // Pump: 1 HP Pentair SuperFlo - 2012
    Filter: Hayward C17502(S) Cartridge Filter - 2011 // Heat Pump: Sunrunner/Aquapro 1300 (127K BTU) - 2011

  4. Back To Top    #4
    dmanb2b's Avatar
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    Re: pH and CYA

    Very good...shouldn't be a problem at all, just keep testing frequently to make sure you do not fall below 5ppm. Keeping it in a tighter range is better, but going up to 9-10ppm with CYA at 60 should be fine.
    24'x52" AGP (13,500 Gallons), Intex SWG, (2)Solar Bear 4x20 panels, Hayward S220T Filter, 1/2hp Pentair Superflo

    Pool School, TFTestKits, Pool Calculator

  5. Back To Top    #5

    Join Date
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    Re: pH and CYA

    Great advice thus far. Welcome to TFP!

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