(DIY):16K Gal 20X30 rectangular IG Gunite, w/spa, CCP 520 filter,2 Pentair VS pumps, 400KBTU Pentair gas heater, Heat Pump for cooling, **update5.25.2013** added an intellichem with acid pump that will control existing SWG. My Build Thread Here
What is the process? Do you have to chisel down the pool to make it all level before you start doing any new flooring? Is it something do-able yourself?
having done parts of this myself, allow me to offer some suggestions.
you can certainly do *some* of the work but your effort combined with the volume/speed of completion will not match that of an experienced crew.
due to the Great Recession now underway there any many pool plastering crews desperate for work and they will gladly bid your pool. watch out for the common trap of being bid a very low price only to be jacked up on the back end in the middle of the job ..... "uh huh, we've found some major spots here, the price must be adjusted by xxxx.xx..".
in your case, depending on the amount of damage, you can safely estimate that 4 to 6 large trashbarrels full of old plaster need to be removed (each weigh about 300 lbs) to expose the gunite surface. you may have more in case the walls also have soft spots so the extra work in chipping away this old stuff will increase the labor/cost/debris removal and it will increase the amount of plaster/diamond brite needed to re-plaster the surface.
also be aware that the crews that compete for your job speak to one another. thus, it is common for one fellow to offer you the low bid, while he also works in the same crew that offered your the highest bid and if you accept any of the bids, pretty much the same faces show up to do the actual work as they all work for one another or with each other. handle yourself accordingly.
in the deep south a 15k to 18k pool with diamond brite costs normally 2k to 2.3k and you can have a better deal if you pay all cash. normally it takes just 3 days, one day to drain, 2nd day to chip and coat with bonding agent and 3rd day to apply multiple coats of plaster.
if you add other features, tile repairs, coping tiles for steps, etc. the price will go up a little.
Ok thanks for the feedback.
Also, in the meantime the pool isn't really swimmable until it is fixed so should I drain it now or leave the water?
I would not drain it completely until the work starts. Pools here sometime pop out of the ground due to water under gunite so we have to drill holes to relieve the pressure. The goal is to have the pool empty for as short a duration as possible.
Reckoning...welcome to TFP
Below is a link to a recent thread that may give you some insight on what involved. I'm sure TFP_wannabe would have some great advice for you as well having just completed the same project.
I'm wondering.. could I do a "repair" myself?
Drain the pool scrape off all the loose stuff I can get and mix some apoxy myself and apply it to even out surfaces then just get a nice pool paint and go from there? If so what materials could I use for the repair?
It is not like painting a house. You have to remove all the paint and then do any repair work. This requires chipping off any thin, cracked or loose plaster then re plaster to a smooth surface. It is tricky. A re plaster might be the go, plaster is not designed to last forever and I suspect it is not the only thing that needs replacing.
Poxy is fine for small holes and small cracks. Anything larger use plain old tile grout.
Pools come 2nd to Sydney's golden beaches?
21000g IG concrete pool (painted over marblesheen)
1.5hp Waterco pump
24"Waterco sand filter(artificial sand)
Location Sydney Australia