Can my 0870 Powder EXPIRE?

TFP_wanna_be

0
Bronze Supporter
May 26, 2010
129
Orlando, FL
I got my kit and didn't use it as my pool was a mess... Had it resurfaced over the weekend and my test supplies are not giving me any readings. I kept my kit in dry storage out of the sun etc...

The water didnt change colors when I added the 870 (PINK is the goal). Then I moved on to test the Alka and nothing there... Should change colors - I added over 25 drops - no color change....

Your thoughts?

ee9df374.jpg
 
There are two reasons for the chlorine test to not turn pink. Either very high chlorine levels, or no chlorine. If you suspect very high levels, add an extra scoop to complete the color change. How much chlorine had you added before testing?

The TA could be higher depending on your local water conditions. My fill water is around 480ppm out of my well.
 
Ditto what John said...that powder looks nice an fresh. Mine has turned tan/brown after 2 yrs and can still turn the water pink. Either there is no chlorine in the water or the chlorine level is high and you need to add more powder. Like John, my fill water TA is 300+ as well.
 
JohnT said:
There are two reasons for the chlorine test to not turn pink. Either very high chlorine levels, or no chlorine. If you suspect very high levels, add an extra scoop to complete the color change. How much chlorine had you added before testing?

The TA could be higher depending on your local water conditions. My fill water is around 480ppm out of my well.

Thanks for the responses... I've been told that 2.5gals of liquid chlorine were added on Monday. The water was filled/full Sundat morning at 6am. I will try two scoops then three if needed and post my results... Thank you!!!!
 
Wanna,

I'll bet you have no chlorine rather than too much. Use the OTO chlorine test in the blue plastic box. I'll bet that test shows no chlorine as well.

The powder is perfectly usable given that color and likely will be for much time to come
 
duraleigh said:
Wanna,

I'll bet you have no chlorine rather than too much. Use the OTO chlorine test in the blue plastic box. I'll bet that test shows no chlorine as well.

The powder is perfectly usable given that color and likely will be for much time to come

I'm thrilled with the kit and I'm sure its just me!!!! Okay.... I added 3 scoops and nothing.... Safe to say I have no chlorine in the pool. Just for kicks I tested a bleach mix and I got traces of PINK. This test worked fine before the pool was resurfaced and it is very likely that there is no chlorine in the pool. I guess this isnt all bad... the manufacture states to not add chlorine until day 3. I also did the OTO and it was not registering, but I was kinda thinking my eyes were fooling me.

Gonna call the guy in the AM and ask him to bring it up to speed...

Diamond Brite Install Ref:
On the third day, adjust all the chemistry to the following levels:
Free chlorine: 1.0 - 3.0 PPM pH: 7.4 Total Alkalinity: 120 PPM
Calcium Hardness: 200 PPM* Stabilizer: 30 PPM
*Note: Lower Calcium levels help to reduce scale and discoloration.


All keep this updated!!
 
Good morning,

I would suggest you run the full set of tests and post them up. Those suggested levels are too low for both chlorine and CYA.

About 40 CYA and 3-4ppm chlorine is more likely. Also tell us what city and state you live in as that has some marginal effect on what's recommended.
 
It's handy to remember that the OTO (blue box) kit is a definite go/no-go indication for chlorine. If there's ANY chlorine in the water it'll change color. It may not give you an accurate reading but if it changes color there is chlorine present and it if remains clear there is ZERO chlorine.
 
You're gonna be waaaay better off down the road on maintaining chemical balance if you can at least roughly determine how many gallons your "huge" pool contains. 2.5 gallons of chlorine could be significant or totally miniscule.
 
OKay...

My pool is approx 20K gals... 16x32 3ft/8.5 deep
This evenings readings:
CL=0 nothing
PH=8.2 or more
CL Drop - Added 2 heaping scoops and the water never turned color. No CL again.
TA = 40
CH =150
CYA = filled the tube to the TOP and had full sight of the black dot.

Friday will be the 6th day filled after the Diamond Brite resurface. The pool company is not doing a great job keeping me happy and I'm shock since I'd think they'd want to get paid the final payment. Should I tell them thanks, but no thanks and take over the chemicals?
 

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TFP_wanna_be said:
OKay...

My pool is approx 20K gals... 16x32 3ft/8.5 deep
This evenings readings:
CL=0 nothing
PH=8.2 or more
CL Drop - Added 2 heaping scoops and the water never turned color. No CL again.
TA = 40
CH =150
CYA = filled the tube to the TOP and had full sight of the black dot.

Friday will be the 6th day filled after the Diamond Brite resurface. The pool company is not doing a great job keeping me happy and I'm shock since I'd think they'd want to get paid the final payment. Should I tell them thanks, but no thanks and take over the chemicals?

Ask them for a credit....besides getting FC in the pool, you'll need baking soda to raise TA to around 100 and then Muratic acid to bring the PH down. Another alternative...I can't believe I'm saying this :oops: , but you could just use a bunch of trichlor pucks in a floater until your CYA get to around 30ppm, but you'll still need baking soda to raise TA. Trichlor pucks are acidic and add stabilizer as well.
 
dmanb2b said:
TFP_wanna_be said:
OKay...

My pool is approx 20K gals... 16x32 3ft/8.5 deep
This evenings readings:
CL=0 nothing
PH=8.2 or more
CL Drop - Added 2 heaping scoops and the water never turned color. No CL again.
TA = 40
CH =150
CYA = filled the tube to the TOP and had full sight of the black dot.

Friday will be the 6th day filled after the Diamond Brite resurface. The pool company is not doing a great job keeping me happy and I'm shock since I'd think they'd want to get paid the final payment. Should I tell them thanks, but no thanks and take over the chemicals?

Ask them for a credit....besides getting FC in the pool, you'll need baking soda to raise TA to around 100 and then Muratic acid to bring the PH down. Another alternative...I can't believe I'm saying this :oops: , but you could just use a bunch of trichlor pucks in a floater until your CYA get to around 30ppm, but you'll still need baking soda to raise TA. Trichlor pucks are acidic and add stabilizer as well.

Funny you should mention the PUCKS.... The pool guy told my wife that he added Chlorine and that we should keep the pump on. I walk over to the pump :hammer: the guy used my stuff to fill and turn on the inline puck feeder - NICE....!!

I'm going to call Friday them to either get the chems dialed in or I'm going to do it. My guess is they are going to say they are adding more acid to brush the pool and as long as there is no green I'm 'okay'... They have only brushed twice in 5 days... Not thrilled about that. I'm not trying to use the web knowledge against this guy - I do expect him to do what he says they are gonna do... 'brush the pool everyday for a week and full chems' "you'll be swimming when we are done" Had to vent sorry...
 
okay.... today I removed the skimmer basket and found 4-5 pucks - gotta admit this raised an eyebrow... Do I need to address this? This must be why my filter grids were so easy to clean today.

Todays Numbers:
PH=8.2
TC=2 (fc1.5+cc.5) the yellow chlorine test also was a 2
TA=60
CAL=150
CYA= a slight improvement, but I can still see the black dot clear as day.

I noticed a swimmer in the pool today. I forgot what those are called - little bug swimming in the deep end.
Thanks for your feedback!!!
 
okay.... I'm not trusting of my eyes I guess.... My PH reads 8.2 ish Any other way to test PH?

PH= ?
FC=3ppm
TC=3.5ppm
TA=90
CH=150
CYA=55

Just got back from leaving the pool for 5-days.... gobble-gobble.. I own it now - I need to get that PH down!!
 
Sounds about right for a newly plastered pool :goodjob: . Lower PH to 7.2...wait a few days..repeat. Keep an eye on your TA as you will want to make sure it does not drop much below 60. Fresh plaster will cause frequent PH rise, especially in the first 30-60 days.
 
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