To drain or not to drain

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dmanb2b said:
Using other forms of chlorine will not be any cheaper. As for convenience, as I've mentioned before, given the size of you pool, I would seriously consider a SWG. Yes it's a high $ cash outlay upfront, but as you've said will save you $100/mo in liquid chlorine. The avg SWG can last 3-7 years. Bottom line, spending $100-$200 a month on a $30K gal pool is not unreasonable.

Let's say say you purchase a SWG, I'll use $2,000 as your investment cost (SWG and salt) and assume you have your pool open 6 months per year and a conservative 3 year life, your looking at about $110/mo if you spread that cost over the useful life. Not having to lug jugs...priceless :goodjob:
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Hey I'm sold on the SWG, but my husband has the final word. I am going to put together some info to try and convince him. Also here in AZ the pool is open 30/12...days/months.
So the savings look even better. Plus it will be one less thing for me to take care of. I need info on what would be the best swg, where do you suggest I look. what if someone is selling theirs is that a good after market purchase?
I appreciate all the help and suggestions, the pool is finally blue. Now to keep it that way and move on to other neglected projects :roll:
 
I would go new, only b/c you never really know how old the cell is. Hopefully Poolsean or Jason will be around soon to help you...with a 30+k gal pool, that way out of my leauge of expertise.

Also...just remember that altough a SWG is a great auto-chlorine device, it does not mean you stop testing your water regulary...other than that....I love them.
 
Looking better is a real understmt it is sparkly blue now except for all the dirt due to the wonderful dust storms we have here. But i can handle that. As per the previous thread....i can hear the angels and caught a glimpse of the heavens as for my daughter and marriage, two outta four aint bad. lol
Today FC was 24
I think the shock process is over, holding overnight, now do I just wait and maintain/aim for at 8-9ppm when I jug lug in the evening?
 
Is CYA still in the 70-80 range? If so, then yes letting your FC come down to 8-9 and maintaining it there should be OK and just make sure the filter is on 24/7 until all the dead algae is filtered out. Check your filter's PSI as well to make sure it is not dirty. You should see daily water clarity improvement if you are not losing FC overnight.
 
Thanks, I am assuming it is still 70-80 unless adding 27 gallons of chlorine can change it, haha. As for clarity I have a crystal clear blue sparkly pool, just residual dirt from multiple dust storms. I am sweeping the dirt to the main drains for elimination. the polaris only works so well.
 

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Update
FC: 13.5
CYA 55-65, could the addition of all the chlorine change it?? i tried the test a couple of times.
pH 7.5 - 7.8 will add some acid tonight.
So now I just monitor levels, and add chlorine per CYA/chlorine chart to maintain adequate FC levels....right?
 
mybluepool,

I would be cautious on buying someone else's salt system. Go new and upsize the cell. That is, we manufacturers have suggested sizes for the cells. 40,000 gallons is a typical cell size, but I recommend upsizing to the largest cell you can afford. There are MANY salt systems in operation in the Phoenix area. You must be diligent in ensuring you maintain proper water "balance", according to the Saturation Index. Otherwise, calcium scale build up will occur in the cell, which will reduce chlorine production and cell life!

Cya is recommended to be in the 60 - 80 ppm range with salt systems, but also allows you to maintain a lower FC level (3 ppm), than is the traditional recommendation here.

Glad you're pool is looking better!
 
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