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Thread: Checkvalves?

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    Checkvalves?

    Hello,

    I'm replumbing my 20k gallon in-ground pool to replace my old power hog pump with a new Pentair Intelliflo VF. While I'm at it, I'd like to optimize the plumbing configuration. My pool equipment is nearly level with the pool coping, ie about 6" above water level.

    My primary questions is where should I put checkvalves, if any. My secondary question is if this config sounds optimal.

    My plumbing sequence is as follows:
    (1) 2.5" suction from pool (combination/ratio of water from two bottom drains and single skimmer occurs in skimmer basket by one of those plastic widgets)
    (2) pump (Pentair Intelliflo VF)
    (3) 3-way valve (Jandy)
    (3a) to sewage drain (to empty pool water)
    (3b) to filter
    (4) filter (Jandy CL460)
    (5) 3-way valve (Jandy)
    (5a) 1.5" return to pool sweep (Polaris 360 pressure side boosterless sweep)
    (5b) to heater
    (6) heater (Jandy LX400)
    (7) salt chlorine gen (Jandy Aquapure 1400)
    (8) 3-way valve (Jandy)
    (8a) 2" return to side wall outputs (4)
    (8b) 1.5" return to floor outputs (2)

    Does this look like a good configuration? Any advice for improvement?

    Any problem with putting the pool sweep after the filter? The current config attaches it before the filter but causes frequent clogging of the 360's filter screen. I'd prefer to not clog its very small filter screen or pump unfiltered water back to the pool.

    Should I use checkvalves anywhere? My current plumbing has one between filter and heater but I don't know why. Any reason to put one between heater and salt chlorine gen to avoid chlorine going back into equipment?

    Is it a bad idea to directly plumb the pump output into the sewer (via 3-way valve) to empty water from pool or vac to sewer? Maybe it needs an air gap? Although I don't want the sewer open to the air. I don't want to pump high flow water and back up sewer into the house drains!! That would be bad.

    Thanks!
    Built in 1957 44,000 gallon in-ground gunite/plaster pool, Intelliflo VF Pump, 600 lb. Pentair Triton II T100 Sand Filter, CompuPool CPCS48 SWG, Borates at 50 ppm, TF-100 test kit

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    Re: Checkvalves?

    Quote Originally Posted by MountainMan
    Hello,

    Any problem with putting the pool sweep after the filter? The current config attaches it before the filter but causes frequent clogging of the 360's filter screen. I'd prefer to not clog its very small filter screen or pump unfiltered water back to the pool.

    Usually, the feed for the cleaner is before the filter, to insure the same flow to the unit all the time. When you hook it up to the outlet of the filter, your available flow will decrease as the filter gets dirty, so you would have to compensate for that perhaps several times between filter cleanings. If you are getting debris in the finger screen, there is an inline filter you can get to correct that. You now have to empty the inline filter now, but the area is larger in the filter and you wouldnt have to clean it as often as the finger screen.

    Should I use checkvalves anywhere? My current plumbing has one between filter and heater but I don't know why. Any reason to put one between heater and salt chlorine gen to avoid chlorine going back into equipment?

    Even though the Cl generator stops producing chlorine the moment the pump goes off, and there is no real danger of Cl drifting back to the heater, I would keep the existing check valve (easier to keep than get rid of).

    Is it a bad idea to directly plumb the pump output into the sewer (via 3-way valve) to empty water from pool or vac to sewer? Maybe it needs an air gap? Although I don't want the sewer open to the air. I don't want to pump high flow water and back up sewer into the house drains!! That would be bad.

    Thanks!
    In my area, thats the only legal way to discharge pool water. If you wanted to divert 100% of the pump output to the sewer (none back to the pool), but not all of it as fast as the pump will pump it, you could put another valve between the Jandy valve and the sewer, thereby throttling the output down to a more manageable flow.
    Factory Warranty Station for:
    Jandy/Zodiac, Pentair, Sta-Rite, Raypak, Polaris,
    and Paramount pool cleaning systems.

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    Re: Checkvalves?

    Thanks for the recommendations. One interesting feature of the Intelliflo VF pump is that it is programmed to maintain a constant flow rate in GPM. So it automatically modifies pump RPM to keep the flow constant. This should resolve the problem of the main filter gradually clogging and changing the flow rate. With this pump I think I can avoid using a separate inline filter on the return to the pool sweep.
    Built in 1957 44,000 gallon in-ground gunite/plaster pool, Intelliflo VF Pump, 600 lb. Pentair Triton II T100 Sand Filter, CompuPool CPCS48 SWG, Borates at 50 ppm, TF-100 test kit

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    Re: Checkvalves?

    Just keep in mind that as the pump ramps up to keep flow rates constant, your energy use increases as well.
    Factory Warranty Station for:
    Jandy/Zodiac, Pentair, Sta-Rite, Raypak, Polaris,
    and Paramount pool cleaning systems.

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    Re: Checkvalves?

    Check valves greatly increase you pump head or pressure. You will have a more efficient system without them.
    7,500 gal, IG pool, L shape 22' x 15', 1.5 hp pump, cartridge filter, AquaPlus SWG/Controller, Pebble-Tec liner.

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