Loop loc Mesh vs Solid
- Thread starter norbie
- Start date
That will be perfect. I used to use a TE48-C and found it a bit light and the TE70 series too big.
I recommend drilling through the concrete. This prevents any water from accumulating under the anchor. A void under the anchor that can't drain will freeze. Ice expands. Concrete doesn't. Either the anchor goes pop out of the concrete and the spring launches it (not likely) or the concrete with crack and the anchor is launched by the spring tension. (more likely but still not a frequent event). Murphy's laws dictate when an anchor launches. Drill through to eliminate the risk. Many installers don't do this important step not realizing it should be done. To them, less drilling is less drilling, especially when the concrete is 6 or 8" thick, like at a dive stand. Less is faster to them. Bad mistake.
Scott
I recommend drilling through the concrete. This prevents any water from accumulating under the anchor. A void under the anchor that can't drain will freeze. Ice expands. Concrete doesn't. Either the anchor goes pop out of the concrete and the spring launches it (not likely) or the concrete with crack and the anchor is launched by the spring tension. (more likely but still not a frequent event). Murphy's laws dictate when an anchor launches. Drill through to eliminate the risk. Many installers don't do this important step not realizing it should be done. To them, less drilling is less drilling, especially when the concrete is 6 or 8" thick, like at a dive stand. Less is faster to them. Bad mistake.
Scott
Thanks Scott. I will definately drill throught the concrete to avoid popping. That is a great tip
Awsome information guys......I will rent a rotary hammer....the cover will arrive in less than a week, I will keep everyone informed via this thread.
Got my cover yesterday.....measured following the instructions ad will be renting the rotary hammer drill tomorrow...my question is should I drill a smaller pilot hole before drilling the 3/4 inch hole. The drill they offer to rent is a Mikita (not sure model#) but it has a SDS chuck.
no need to drill i pilot hole. I thought the same thing, but glad I tried without it. My drill had 2 speeds. I started on low speed and after the hole was started switch to high speed. I also drilled all the way through the cement as recommended earlier in this post. I did get some small chips around the top of the hole, mostly when installing the brass anchors, not by drilling. Now I will begin to look for something to fill in the cement where it chipped. Good luck
Masonry collars are available from the dealer. Get an equal number to the number of anchors.
Scott
Scott
Can the collars be put down after the archors are in? Or will I need to remove them somehow and reinstall?
Detach a spring, unthread the turnbuckle, set the collar over the anchor, rethread the turnbuckle, and rehook the spring on the turnbuckle. Doing one or two at a time should be fairly painless.
Scott
Scott
I'm shopping for covers. Thanks for all of the information so far. Anyone have any thoughts on the Arctic Armor mesh safety cover? I think it is made by GLI pool products.
Well I got the cover installed....went fairly well. Only issue I had was keeping a few of the holes perfectly straight but other than that things went pretty smooth, I didn't read the thread about the collars till after I drilled the holes. Very minimum chipping to the cement, I figured it out early when using the Tamper tool to tap lightly instead of trying to pound it in one blow.
Now that I have my new safety cover installed I have a couple more questions if I could,
#1 what is the best method to figure out if you have the correct spring tension on the cover itself?
#2 I am getting ready to close my pool for the winter up here in Massachusetts and someone mentioned to me that you don't close a pool with a mesh safety cover the same way as you would with a normal cover. I used to drain my pool below the skimmer, treat the water, blow out and put anti freeze in the lines than cover it and always opened it with pretty clear water. The pool store where I normally buy my chemicals wanted to sell me a "special mesh cover closing kit for $80).
Now that I have my new safety cover installed I have a couple more questions if I could,
#1 what is the best method to figure out if you have the correct spring tension on the cover itself?
#2 I am getting ready to close my pool for the winter up here in Massachusetts and someone mentioned to me that you don't close a pool with a mesh safety cover the same way as you would with a normal cover. I used to drain my pool below the skimmer, treat the water, blow out and put anti freeze in the lines than cover it and always opened it with pretty clear water. The pool store where I normally buy my chemicals wanted to sell me a "special mesh cover closing kit for $80).
The only time I lower the water is to protect a tile line at the water line.
If the grids are straight and the edges are flat, as long as the springs aren't fully compressed, you're fine.
To those with solid covers, or Merlin Smart Mesh covers, these covers don't stretch and rely on the springs having some travel left. They are not as tight.
The solids should be slightly tighter on the outside edges and softer sprung in the middle so they may guide the rain towards the pump or drain panels.
Scott
If the grids are straight and the edges are flat, as long as the springs aren't fully compressed, you're fine.
To those with solid covers, or Merlin Smart Mesh covers, these covers don't stretch and rely on the springs having some travel left. They are not as tight.
The solids should be slightly tighter on the outside edges and softer sprung in the middle so they may guide the rain towards the pump or drain panels.
Scott
Hey Norbert,
I'm in central mass with a mesh loop-loc.
First of all, dont close it until the middle of October or till the night temps hit the low 40's upper 30's. If you do that, the water temp will be down into the low 60's, usually. Just raise the chlorine to shock level for your CYA, and add some poly 60 algecide. I know some will say the poly may not be needed, but I add it. Open the pool around patriots day. The key to a clean pool with a mesh cover is later close, earlier open. I assume you got the newest mesh loop loc has. It's really tight. In fact, it takes several hours just to drain a moderate rain from the cover.
On the tension, you dont want it trampoline/drum tight. When there is no weight on the cover, you want the straps to be tight, the cover to sag very minimally, if at all. A bit of tension on the springs is ok, enough to keep the cover flat and basically level. The water level you want is between 12-18 inches below the top of the pool. That's generally an inch or 2 below the skimmer. The idea is that when you get a snow load, the cover will have enough give that it will rest on top of the water. If its too tight and/or the water is too low, the snow weight will be held only by the springs, or it will stretch too far to get to the top of the water, and the springs will get stretched and have to be replaced too quickly.
Watch the water level during the winter. If it gets higher than 12 inches, put a pump on the top step and pump water back out. You dont want it to get much higher than 12 inches. If you have canteliver coping, be extra sure the water level doesnt get too high. Ice can push the coping up and damage it.
I'm in central mass with a mesh loop-loc.
First of all, dont close it until the middle of October or till the night temps hit the low 40's upper 30's. If you do that, the water temp will be down into the low 60's, usually. Just raise the chlorine to shock level for your CYA, and add some poly 60 algecide. I know some will say the poly may not be needed, but I add it. Open the pool around patriots day. The key to a clean pool with a mesh cover is later close, earlier open. I assume you got the newest mesh loop loc has. It's really tight. In fact, it takes several hours just to drain a moderate rain from the cover.
On the tension, you dont want it trampoline/drum tight. When there is no weight on the cover, you want the straps to be tight, the cover to sag very minimally, if at all. A bit of tension on the springs is ok, enough to keep the cover flat and basically level. The water level you want is between 12-18 inches below the top of the pool. That's generally an inch or 2 below the skimmer. The idea is that when you get a snow load, the cover will have enough give that it will rest on top of the water. If its too tight and/or the water is too low, the snow weight will be held only by the springs, or it will stretch too far to get to the top of the water, and the springs will get stretched and have to be replaced too quickly.
Watch the water level during the winter. If it gets higher than 12 inches, put a pump on the top step and pump water back out. You dont want it to get much higher than 12 inches. If you have canteliver coping, be extra sure the water level doesnt get too high. Ice can push the coping up and damage it.
I can't thank you guys enough for all the information I got throughout this whole experience. With your help I got the cover installed without any major issues and will be closing my pool this weekend (thanks bk406). I will definitely be using this forum in the future.....
poolb.jpg[/attachment:2emaid0w]Nice! Did you like the way the leaves and stuff blew off while the pool was closed?
Scott
Scott
My pool (with mesh cover) looks just like norbie's when I open. A little pale greenish at first and within a day or two of shocking and running the pump, clear blue.
I close in late October and open in early April. I drain to below my lowest line (suction line) which ends up being somewhere around 12-15" I would guess. By spring, depending on rain and snow amount, the water will be over the skimmer, but below the coping. This works fine for me as I vacuum on waste till the water level drops below the top of the skimmer. This vacuuming to waste gets rid all that fine 'dust'?? that settles to the bottom of the pool over the winter without me having to backwash the filter.
I close in late October and open in early April. I drain to below my lowest line (suction line) which ends up being somewhere around 12-15" I would guess. By spring, depending on rain and snow amount, the water will be over the skimmer, but below the coping. This works fine for me as I vacuum on waste till the water level drops below the top of the skimmer. This vacuuming to waste gets rid all that fine 'dust'?? that settles to the bottom of the pool over the winter without me having to backwash the filter.
- Oct 6, 2009
- 175
- Pool Size
- 22500
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool Core-55
This is an older post and I'm curious if any of you who have provided opinions here may have any updated info or changed opinions. I'm in the market now for a safety cover and so far looking at Coverlon and LoopLoc. Still waiting for Meyco rep to call. I don't mind paying the money for a better product if its really worth it, but really want to make the right decision based on facts and other's experiences....not just from the company brochures.
Anyone care to comment?
Anyone care to comment?
I just ordered a loop loc solid with drains last week. When it comes in I'll document the install (having them do it) and report back. $2200 for the cover and $560 labor to install it.