Need some help with Algae. I think I'm on the right track

[kparente]

Green pool after 4 straight days of rain.
* Took solar cover off, skimmed off the remaining leaves.
* Added 2 1lb small bags of shock that has hypo @ 9am est
* 2 hours later took sample to our reputable pool store. These guys give you the facts and don't push chems. I don't like Namco / Leslie's

Readings:
TC = 10
FC = 10
pH = 7.0
TA = 40
CH = 100
CYA = 10
Phos = 500

Started by adding 1 qt of Phox-X so the algae will stop feeding.

The pool store said to add the following tomorrow.
* add 4lbs CYA
* add 18 lbs CH
* add 18 lbs of Alak
Need some guidance to see if I'm on the right track for getting rid of the algae.

 

[Txmat]

Welcome to the forum. If you study Pool School (see button at the top right of this page) you will learn that what your store is recommending is not the method that most of us follow. First, most of us have had bad experiences with the pool store testing. So we advocate getting your own quality test kit and doing your own testing. I don't think they set out to be in accurate, but they just are most of the time. Since water balance and in your case getting rid of the algae is dependent on knowing where your water is and therefore accurate testing, we recommend you invest in your own complete test kit. If you read the section on test kits in the Pool School you will see two highly recommended. Unfortunately most local pool stores do not carry the quality test kits so you have to order over the internet. If you search her on Phosphorus you will learn that the Phos-X that the store sold you was unnecessary. What you need to do is kill the algae. The way you kill algae is with chlorine. Read the section in Pool School on defeating algae and how to shock your pool. You also will benefit by looking at the Pool Calculator and inserting your numbers. You will learn at what level you need to bring you FC up to and maintain during the shocking process. The source of the chlorine does not matter, except the by products some add. If the pool store test results are accurate then you really don't have to worry at this time about what you use. However, if you use Hypo you will rapidly get your CH too high. I know because I have done just that based on my pool store recommendation. You will find that one of the best and cheapest sources of chlorine is liquid chlorine. Some pool stores sell it at 12% concentration or you can get plain original unscented 6% bleach. It really works and is much better for your water balance. I suggest you read and study the Pool School and then come back and post your questions. But back to your original question - are you on the right track - I do not believe your going to get the pool clear and keep it clear without doing more and the surprising part spend less money getting there. If you continue what you are doing I predict you will be back at the pool store in another few days buying more expensive chemicals and you still will not be satisfied with the result. I am glad you found this forum and if you follow the advice you get here you will have the best looking pool you have ever had. I know, because I was in your shoes and received the same advice I have given you and am very glad I followed it.

 

[kparente]

Hello,

I did have the TF-100 test kit, but was nervous about using it as I failed chemistry in high school After reading the instructions and trying some test its not too bad.

Here are my results as of 5:30pm

Have not added any chems since the phos free. Going to BJ's tonight and get a bunch O bleach for tomorrows bleach bomb.

Here are some results that I got done

CYA = 60
FC = 9.5
CC = 0
pH = 7.4

If I was to start right now to shock and kill algae...

My shock level would be 18

So I add the jugs, but how many jugs do I add at once? I then check FC and see where I'm at in a half hour? Say I check in a half hour and I'm at 12 (near shock), how much more bleach to get myself up to 18 as my goal?

I need to understand this little bit and I think I can clear the swamp.

 

[Txmat]

OK, Your off to a good start. You have a good test kit and I would trust if over the pool store - I doubt the clerk there knows as much about chemistry as you do if you have read the Pool School. Anyway, have you found the Pool Calculator? If not, look in Pool School and click on the link to the Pool Calculator. You enter your pool gallons at the top where it says "size" and at the bottom you enter Trouble Free Pool, bleach, the pool surface(vinyl) where it says "suggest goal level." Then look at the line above where it says "Suggested FC level" and check the shock - if your prior calculations are accurate it will be 18. Anyway, whatever it is you want to enter it in the Target (or right) column on the FC line. Then in the Now(or left) column enter your current FC level. Be sure and fill in the other Now column blanks - particularly the CYA. You can then read how many ounces of bleach you need to add. This is how much you add to bring the pool from where it is now to shock level. Then in one hour test the FC level then insert the new number in the now column and calculate how much bleach you will have to add to get back to shock level. Do this no more frequently then one hour and do it as often as the rest of your life permits. The more you can keep bringing the pool back to shock level the faster it will clear. So if you have Saturday and Sunday off try to bring it back to shock level every hour -- you will see a difference. Also you can speed up the process by brushing often. This sort of brushes off the dead surface algae and lets the chlorine get to the live algae. You will also want to keep an eye on your cartridge filter as the algae dies and gets filtered out you will need to clean the filter. It will be a pretty intense few days, but if you keep at it, study Pool School, read posts on this forum, and ASK questions you will be very successful. If you have questions about the testing or anything else just ask them here in this thread. You will find there are some real experts here are very generous with their knowledge and more than willing to answer your questions. If you know how many gallons are in your pool add that to your signature and then we can help you double check your Pool Calculator results. If you do not know how many gallons are in the pool, there is an area at the bottom that will help you calculate the size. The easiest way is to divide the pool into sections - calculate the shallow end, then the deep, and then the transition with an average depth and add the three results. Again, let us know if you have questions and keep us posted on how it is going.

 

[Isaac-1]

When talking about adjusting CYA I think of the old saying about measure twice, cut once. CYA testing is subject to a lot of interpritation and outright bad readings, depending on the test method. I suspect your reading is closer than the store's though. Also the only practical way to lower CYA for most people is through water replacement. Therefore never adjust CYA based on a single test, and when you do feel you must adjust, go slowly so as to not over shoot (note it can take a week or more for CYA to show up on the test once it is added to the water).

Ike

p.s. bleach kills algae, if that is not working your CYA is likely too high to let the bleach work

 

[Darkside of the Pool]

Welcome to TFP!

Phos = 500

Have not added any chems since the phos free.

This mean they sold you that *cough* very affordable *cough* Phosfree for an extraordinary high amount of .5 ppm of phosphates. This is a result of a natural bend mankind has at finding a culprit instead of questionning and pondering, and aggressive marketing from Natural Chemistry (in this case).

Believe me, I know how much sense it SEEMS to make to remove the algae's food but it's not that much of a good idea. Not for your pool but your wallet. This means you've been Pool Stored. Don't worry, this happens to a lot of people, and when a clerk realizes it, he is often ridden with guilt.

I cannot give you better advice than Txmat and Isaac here, just beware: Most pool store clerks BELIEVE the BS they told you. Sadly, The Pool School is probably a way better training program than whatever they've been taught in the industry.

[EDIT] Please, avoid adding CH if it is a vinyl liner pool. If you wish to raise your CH, I would advise using cal-hypo for a while... will save you the transport a few jugs (I am lazy) and will do the trick after a little while using it. [/End EDIT]

 

[Txmat]

I agree with Isacc CYA is a difficult test for me. I have been taught on this forum after I perform the test to pour the solution back into the little bottle, shake it and wait another 30 second and repeat the test. Do this three or four times to be sure you are getting a consistent result. If in fact your CYA is at 60 you will want to drain the pool and get it down to about 50, but this can wait until you get the algae bloom cleared. You want enough CYA to keep the sun from burning off all your FC, but the more you have the more bleach it takes to get to a FC level. Your results are more in line with what I would expect than what the Pool Store told you, but should they be correct then you would want to add CYA. So when it is convenient do the CYA test again. This time repeat it several times until you are satisfied the dot is disappearing at the same spot and you have a result you can be confident in. You can post that and we can go from there. But, again I want to stress your focus should be keeping the FC level at shock level for now.

 

[kparente]

WOW!, that is what it took for the formulas to click in my head.

So right now its a swamp. Do I blind brush and or vaccum at this point, or wait till things start clearing a little?

I totally have this now. Going to attack tomorrow and watch every hour and test, test.

The info here and the new test kit should fix me up.

Thanks to all on this thread

 

[Txmat]

It does take a while to understand the process and then when you do it seems so simple. If it were me I would blind brush the walls and floor. When you brush you knock off the top dead algae allowing the chlorine to get to the still living algae. If I knew there was organic material such as leaves in the pool I would try to get them out, because they are burning up chlorine, otherwise I would hold off vacuuming until I started believing I had dead algae on the floor. Hit it hard the next couple days I think you will see a lot of progress.

 

[kparente]

Hello,

Woke up this AM from the pump being on for 24 hours to a gray pool and a filter screaming to be cleaned. Shut the pump and hosed all 4 filters off and wow, it was green sludge and lots of debris.
Put the filters back in and gauge back to clean/normal start setting.

Per the chart this AM I added (2 ) 1.42 gallon jugs of chlorox bleach.

I can now see 1/2 way to the deep end.

Here are my readings after 5 test sessions.

FC = 18
CC = 0
pH = 7.4
TA = 130
CH = 100
CYA = 70

So my shock level is 28 per the calculator so I need to keep and get FC 18 to = shock 28

So the calc says to add another 2 gallons of bleach. Heading out to chug the jug..

Please let me know if I'm in the right direction.

 

[Bama Rambler]

It looks like you're on the right track. You're shock level is 24 if your CYA is 60 but targeting 28 is a good idea.

You need to maintain shock level as often as hourly until you pass the OCLT (overnight chlorine loss test).

Just keep at it till you pass it.

 

[kparente]

Got the solar cover on now with the pump running for another 24 hrs.
Will check FC in the AM.

Does having the solar cover help with FC loss?

 

[Txmat]

There will be no FC loss at night except for what is being consumed by the organics. In the daytime the sun burns off some of the FC and the rest of the daytime loss is due to killing organics like algae. The CYA helps reduce the amount of FC burned by the sun. If your solar cover floats on the water it is a good idea to have it on at least during some of the shock process because it probably has some algae on it that needs to be killed. If the pool is gray and you can see half way down you have made great progress in the last 24 hours. You are definitely on the right track. Keep hitting it hard hourly tomorrow and you will see even more progress. I am really happy for you.

 

[anonapersona]

At some point you will need to know the CC level, when you see CC you will need to have the cover off since the sun and air will help get rid of the CC levels.

 

[kparente]

I'm back. Forgot to post yesterday...

Pool yesterday was 98% clear, today its crystal clear. The TF kit and this forum saved me . I love testing and going to get a speedstir as I hate stirring, dropping, stirring, dropping.

I tested and here are my numbers and a question

FC = 41 drops (from pink to clear) x .5 = 20.5
CC = 5 drops of the yellow capped bottle remains clear = no CC
CYA = 55
Rest of the #'s (pH,Alk,CH) are norm

The pool smells of CC tho. I know my FC is high as the solar cover was on all day in the sun.

Wondering why the CC smell. Is it because I cleared my swap only 2 days ago?

Just need a little guidance to get me to a clear and fresh pool as we only have 2-3 weeks left of pool weather..

 

[dmanb2b]

Leave the solar cover off when at shock level. 20.5 FC will give you a nice clean wiff of chlorine. If you have passed the overnight FC loss test, go ahead and let your FC come down some.

 

[kparente]

I left the solar cover off and here are the readings. The pool is crystal clear. Still some FC/CC smell. Prolly cause of the 17.5 FC

FC = 17.5 (high)
CC = 0
TC = 17.5
pH = norm
T/A = 70 (low)
CH = 110 (low)
CYA = 60

Tomorrow I will add what the pool calc says for TA and CH to get to norm.

Just want to know if I'm close to just maintaining the numbers..

 

[Txmat]

Glad to hear the pool is clear. Feels good doesn't it.

I don't recall if you have done and passed the overnight chlorine loss test. If not do it tonight. If you have passed it or pass it then you can just let the chlorine level come down on it's own to normal. I notice you have a chlorinator - are you using it or are you using bleach now? I do not see a swcg in your signature, so I assume you are not using one. In that case you don't need a 60 CYA - 40 to 50 should be enough and your TA and CH are OK for a vinyl pool. I don't think you need to add anything. You may want to drain and refill a little water to get your CYA down. If you are using the chlorinator and pucks remember that your CYA is going to go way up and thus your chlorine demand unless you drain and replace water regularly.

 

[kparente]

Hummm. Hope I did not over chlorinate?

I use the solar cover to keep FC loss to a minimum. Had it off last night to evaporate some of the excess FC.

I have my chlorinator set low/medium. And when I shocked myself outa the algae mess I used Chlorox to shock. I have about 4 pucks in the chlorinator.

I could always turn the chlorinator off for a bit till the chlorox burns off. We only have about 2 weeks of decent weather left..

But the kids were in the pool all day and will be in tomorrow after the first day of back to school.

 

[Txmat]

I would shut it off at least until the chlorine level returned to normal - this assumes the pool passed the overnight test. The chlorine from bleach and the chlorine from pucks is the same, but pucks add CYA and you have too much all ready.