Slippery liner

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Lastrites

Lastrites

0
Jul 16, 2010
26
Newark, DE
Hello everyone,

Since this is my first time ever owning a pool, I have a ton of questions and I'm sure to be back here weekly asking many more. My question today is, "What causes the pool liner to become slippery under the water line and how do I prevent this from returning"?
 
I have seen this condition in my pool also--slippery liner.. But all my test results show no CC or doing an overnite FC loss test less than the 1 ppm..

I normally keep my FC to the 5 to 6 range with CYA of 60 ..
these are my results as of tonite testing with TF 100 kit
FC=6.5
CC=0
PH=7.6
TA=70
Cya=60
CH=180

My pool is sparkling clean cept for the DURNED ole flying beetles. :grrrr: :grrrr: :grrrr:
 
In a really sparkling pool, the liner will be "squeaky clean" and not be slippery. As Ted indicated, a slippery liner is almost always indicative of algae.

Dreamin, those are good numbers, and if you've held them there and your liner is slippery, perhaps something else has been added to your pool.
 
I had good "numbers" also, looked just like yours...no FC usage overnight either. My liner was getting slippery too and no amount of brushing was getting rid of it. I shocked the pool at 25ppm for 7 days and brushed everyday until it started to come off, it was definetely something growing in there and my water was crystal clear the whole time. Today my liner is squeeky clean! :whoot:

Also don't forget to "shock" those items that get put into the pool, my Krawler+hoses (I just left it running for 7 days), vacuum brush, solar cover (clean the top too!) and irrigated slide (left running) were all algae sources that needed sanitizing at the same time. I threw my dip net+brushes on the steps just to make sure I wasn't reintroducing algae into the pool from daily use. I even sanitized my diving board with a stiff mix of Chlor Hypo and water to get it clean, the non-slip surface is pearly white now!

Whatever it was...it was resistant, but I am back to 5-9ppm of chlorine in my 60ppm CYA water and the pool is staying clean. Remember shocking is a process, don't skip the steps....and when in doubt assume the worst. :wave:
 
My numbers have held since mid june... only thing I can think of is the coastal bermuda hayfield right behind me (meaning 10 feet from pool wall to edge of where the hay starts) -- they fertilize and spray different things on.. they usually do this once a month. If it is something growing it is VERY VERY slow... I can get in like today and not even brush--but just walk around in it and it is good for 3 to 4 days. All the while holding these numbers .. I test 2X a week.. Run my pump 8 hours a day with the SWG at 45%.. I know I have a flow rate of right at 60 gpm. I will definitely have to find out what they are spraying and go from there.
 
Thank you all for the advice!!!

As of now, I have only been using the test strips that came with the pool package. These strips only measures (FC, PH, and TA). I will be sure to buy a proper test kit this weekend.

FC= 3-6 range
PH= 6.8
TA= 120

My pool is also crystal clear!!!

The only thing I have added to the pool has been a weekly 3" chlorinating tablet in a floating feeder since the FC hangs in the 3-6 range. Shock has never been used?
 
ok, what's happening is that the water circulating through your pool is "skimming" over the surface of the forming algae on your liner, if you brush your liner to mix this thin layer into your water, then take a reading a few hours later, you will see your numbers reflect the presence of algae. really, the only way to properly kill algae IS to brush your liner otherwise you are NOT attacking the forming algae properly, you are only keeping it from spreading at a faster rate, but once your chlorine drops too low this algae will come on with a vengeance and your pool will be green in no time.
Brushing your liner weekly assures that algae never gets past the invisible slime stage which is your best way to avoid full on blooms all season long.

it's like brushing your teeth - do it regularly and your chance of cavities is greatly reduced, stop doing it and in time you will have cavities.....
 
Lastrites said:
Thank you all for the advice!!!

As of now, I have only been using the test strips that came with the pool package. These strips only measures (FC, PH, and TA). I will be sure to buy a proper test kit this weekend.

FC= 3-6 range
PH= 6.8
TA= 120

My pool is also crystal clear!!!

The only thing I have added to the pool has been a weekly 3" chlorinating tablet in a floating feeder since the FC hangs in the 3-6 range. Shock has never been used?
Click to expand...

Your PH is way too low. If you plan to continue using tablets, use Borax and raise your PH up to 7.6 - use the Pool Calculator to determine how much Borax to add.

You need to ORDER a good test kit online - it is very unlikely you will find a Taylor K-2006 in stores (few stores except Leslie's carry it and often they try and sell you the K-2005 by mistake, which is not what you want.) The TF100 is only sold online.

If you plan to continue using tablets, you need a reliable CYA test done - not strips.

Remember to brush :)
 
UPDATE!!!
I have taken everyone's advice and decided to stop by my local Leslie's Pool Store with a fresh water sample. The salesperson was kind enough to give me a water analysis and discovered the test strips that I've been using were not accurate.

Leslie's results:

FC= 0
PH= 7.6
TA= 90
CH= 180
CYA= 0

I purchased the following; Leslie's deluxe DPD test kit, Conditioner enhancer, Alkalinity adjuster, Chlor Brite shock, and a really nice brush to scrub the pool liner. I was informed to start with 2.5lbs of conditioner tonight followed by 6lbs. of Alkalinity adjuster and shock tomorrow before testing. I will be sure to brush the pool after adding everything listed above.
 

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If you haven't opened the DPD test kit or the alkalinity adjuster...do not. Your TA at 90 is just fine and they just sold you expensive baking soda. The DPD kit is OK, but still is missing the FAS-DPD chlorine test that can test up to 50ppm and is needed when shocking. The dpd kit is basically a rebranded Taylor k2005...you want the K2006 or the TF100.
 
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