Pump Motor Replacement Q's

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ted13b

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May 25, 2010
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I have a Hayward Super Pump witha 1.5hp motor. At the start of the season, the pool guy told us the motor was on it's way out, but would last the season. Last night, the pump kicked on but sounded louder than usual. After a couple of minutes it started smoking, popped the breaker and shut down. I've got a replacement motor coming, but I've never pulled the pump apart before, what kind of job am I looking at? Does the motor just slide out of the pump, or does the whole pump need to be disassembled? The motor is due in on Weds, and I go away on vacation Sat AM, so I'm going to be short on time... :cry:
 
If it arrives at 5:00 pm, you should be done by 5:30 or 6:00 pm. It's that simple. You may want to go to the Hayward website and download the manual for your pump, it should have an exploded view you can look at and get familiar with it before the motor arrives.

Good luck
 
Welcome to TFP!!

I've got a post or 2 here on replacing motors and seal assemblies on Super Pumps (the seal assembly is SP 1600 Z 2) search for "seal assembly" and "waste" as the author.

If you still need help, ask - I could do this blindfolded :mrgreen:
 
I got the pump in yesterday, and I picked up the seal today. It's a PSR seal, by Alladin, part number PS201. Does that sound correct? The person behind the counter didn't seem sure...
 
That's the seal.

Tools needed:

1/4" Nut Driver, Needle Nosed Pliers, 9/16" And 1/2" Sockets with a Ratchet with Extensions Slightly longer than the motor (Makes life easier!), Volt Meter, Flat Head Screwdriver (#2) 7/16" Open End Wrench

1) Shut off power
2) Remove cap from the back of the motor using the nut driver. If the bolts snap, so what.
3) Disconnect the wires
4) Disassemble the power conduit and pull the wires through the connection on the motor. Remove the elbow from the motor after. Don't forget the bond wire.
5) Remove the clamp holding the capacitor and move the capacitor so you can see the shaft behind the spring loaded centrifugal switch.
6) Remove the four 9/16" bolts holding the seal plate (motor is still attached to it) to the pump body. Slide it back.
7) Remove the Volute to expose the impeller.
8) Insert the 7/16" wrench into the shaft behind the spring loaded centrifugal switch. Spin the impeller until the wrench slides onto the shaft. This will act a a wedge to hold the shaft. Unthread the impeller off the shaft.
9) Remove the four 1/2" bolts holding the motor to the seal plate.
10) Remove the seal set from the seal plate and impeller

If the impeller appears worn, replace it.

Use even pressure when pressing the seal for the the seal plate into position. I usually use a deep socket turned backwards.

Check the volute gasket too.

Reassemble in reverse order with the new motor. The Volute and seal plate are labeled Top for orientation purposes. Do over tighter the 9/16" bolts. The nuts are only pressed into the pump body. If they let go, there are replacements available but they are not normally stocked by most pool stores and it may take some time to get.

Before wiring it back up, Use a volt meter to verify if the pump is 120VAC or 240VAC. The wiring diagram is on the motor.

Scott
 

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Thanks for all the help guys! I installed the impeller and housing on the new motor last night and it's all set for the install into the pump tonight. My only question is on the wiring...does it matter whether the hot or neutral goes on either the L1 or L2 connector?
 
ted13b said:
Thanks for all the help guys! I installed the impeller and housing on the new motor last night and it's all set for the install into the pump tonight. My only question is on the wiring...does it matter whether the hot or neutral goes on either the L1 or L2 connector?
Click to expand...
Yes, and there should be a sticker on the pump that notes the correct positions.
 
Thanks to help from you guys, the pump install was easy. The only problem I had was the wiring didn't conform to standard color codes...the hot and neutral were grey and lt blue. I took a guess and hooked them up. The pump fired right up, but relatively low flow out the return. I reversed the connections and all was well. My neighbors will be happy too, since the new pump is so much quieter. How did we get along before on-line forums??
 
ted13b said:
Thanks to help from you guys, the pump install was easy. The only problem I had was the wiring didn't conform to standard color codes...the hot and neutral were grey and lt blue. I took a guess and hooked them up. The pump fired right up, but relatively low flow out the return. I reversed the connections and all was well. My neighbors will be happy too, since the new pump is so much quieter. How did we get along before on-line forums??
Click to expand...


Just found this old post.... I cant get my new motor to prime... Is it possible my wiring is also not what I thought it was????? Anybody have any thoughts on this????
 
I, too, have a Haywood 1.5 HP pump (8G05) ... It (and the pool) came with the house I bought, so since I wasn't there when it was installed, I'm catching up on pool things I should know. And now, since the motor has developed a relatively high-pitch, metallic whirr on top of it's normal sound, I'm guessing I need the bearing replaced. Or something.

Anyway, First things first ... Can anyone tell me how to disconnect the electrical wires on this pump? I unscrewed the cap at the rear of the motor to reveal the wires, but there doesn't appear to be an obvious point to disconnect/unplug it so I can safely take a look inside. Any help would be appreciated.
 

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