TA around 300??

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K

Kev68ss

0
May 1, 2010
50
Near Nashville TN
New pool- Autopilot SWG- no salt added yet, just bleach- Using a TF100 test kit. No CYA added yet (getting the pump working first)

Chl 2.5
PH 6.8
TA 300???
CYA- 0 of course
Temp 88

Could my TA be that high- it's tap water from my house? If so, what do I do to lower from that amount- it is a salt pool with a vinyl liner, so any help would be appreciated
 
Hey, Kev,

Chances are your TA is not that high. The R-0009 reagent in your TF-100 has a tendency, when fairly new, to put out drops that are too small and skew the test result.

It will go away in a month or so, I'm not sure exactly how long that condition lasts........meanwhile, the work-around is to wipe the dropper tip at least every 2-3 drops as you are introducing the R-0009 into the test cylinder.
 
Well or municipal water?

I would retest.The new bottle tends to have a static cling that can create small drops with this reagent. As Bruce suggested, wiping the tip frequently with a moist cloth will discharge the cling effect and allow normal sized drops and accurate results.

Scott
 
I tested my tap water at 340 TA. It lowered over time with aggressive TA lowering, and the lowered more with normal MA additions to control pH. If your pH is really 6.8 that ought to rise soon. But TA is about the last thing you worry about.

With pH in range, which it is, then get the CYA and FC in there.
 
anonapersona said:
I tested my tap water at 340 TA. It lowered over time with aggressive TA lowering, and the lowered more with normal MA additions to control pH. If your pH is really 6.8 that ought to rise soon. But TA is about the last thing you worry about.

With pH in range, which it is, then get the CYA and FC in there.
Click to expand...

My PH was higher 7.4, the other day- why would that drop to 6.8? You say it should rise soon- that's with me adding baking soda, not naturally rises right?
 
Welcome to TFP...High TA leads to frequent PH rise. I would retest your PH to ensure you did it correctly. Having your PH drop from 7.4 to 6.8 did not happen naturally with TA at 300...did you happen to add anything to the water in between tests?

You'll want to get the TA addressed if you happen to have high CH as well to prevent calcium scaliing. PH at 6.8 is too low, you should raise it to 7.6 by aerating, then add acid to lower PH to 7.0, keep aerating ...let it rise to 7.6 again...repeat. Acid lowers TA and PH and aeration raises PH without affecting TA.

The process of lowering your TA is described HERE

Read up on all the pool school artcles :goodjob:
 
Well I tried wiping off the tip per instructions when checking my TA with the TF100 kit- Here's my numbers

Chl 2.5
PH 7.8 - I measured 6.8 last time- i think the test kit I used was old
TA 240??? I thought it was 300- still very high
CYA- 0 of course
Temp 88

So, should I start with the muratic acid?
 
How does your water look?

How new is the pool?

How are you chlorinating now?

When are you planning to turn on the SWG?


I think I would certainly suggest dropping pH down to 7.2 with muriatic and then probably get enough CYA in the pool to get to 60ppm as first steps. Let us know those questions.
 
duraleigh said:
How does your water look? Water looks fine-clear

How new is the pool? Filled in with water this week

How are you chlorinating now? Adding 2 gal of bleach a night (2 jugs-small jug)

When are you planning to turn on the SWG? Added 680 pounds of salt yesterday- will activate the autopilot real soon- waiting for the minimum requirement-forget what it is right now


I think I would certainly suggest dropping pH down to 7.2 with muriatic and then probably get enough CYA in the pool to get to 60ppm as first steps. Let us know those questions.
Click to expand...
 

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That gives us a good picture of where you are.

Ok, so....
I think I would certainly suggest dropping pH down to 7.2 with muriatic and then probably get enough CYA in the pool to get to 60ppm as first steps.
Click to expand...
I'd still do that.

Next, I would get the SWG up and running and tuned in. If that takes a while, drop back to no more than 1 small jug of clorox each evening to compensate for the newly introduced CYA.

So,

1. drop pH to 7.2
2. Calculate enough CYA to get to 60ppm and add
3. Get Swg running and FC stable in pool.

Once those are done, we can help bring the TA down but I suggest doing it after completing the above.

Is this a vinyl pool? Did you perform the CH test?
 
duraleigh said:
That gives us a good picture of where you are.

Ok, so....
I think I would certainly suggest dropping pH down to 7.2 with muriatic and then probably get enough CYA in the pool to get to 60ppm as first steps.
Click to expand...
I'd still do that.

Next, I would get the SWG up and running and tuned in. If that takes a while, drop back to no more than 1 small jug of clorox each evening to compensate for the newly introduced CYA.

So,

1. drop pH to 7.2
2. Calculate enough CYA to get to 60ppm and add
3. Get Swg running and FC stable in pool.

Once those are done, we can help bring the TA down but I suggest doing it after completing the above.

Is this a vinyl pool? Did you perform the CH test?
Click to expand...
No- I thought CH wasn't for vinyl pools-should I?
 
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