Anyone use an Intex unit in an inground pool ?

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pooltst

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Jul 25, 2010
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Just trying to find out if anyone has tried to use the Intex units in an inground pool. I called Intex and got a generic response. I can't see why it would not work (we have a small inground pool (7500 gal)). The generator itself is 2 pieces of Titanium hooked up to a DC power supply. I guess I can't see why I should pay $400-700 when I can generate the chlorine just as well for less.

Thanks
 
I think we have someone here with a much larger IG pool who has serial plumbed two of the Intex units for their pool
 
I plan to do exactly that, though it may be after swim season this year or next spring. I've only seen pictures of the unit, but I'd like to remove the cell from the base and install it in my return line. I may have to extend the wiring to the control unit. To get around any possible electrical problems, I'll set the timer to run at night only. My pool is 11K gallons, so it should handle my chlorine needs easily. I'd like to hear from others who have done this.
 
It went good, the generator works great! I love it for the price. I'll attach a link to the rar (like a ZIP file) of the pics. its aprrox. 50meg I needed more epoxy soo it has a small leak it one coupler. I didn't want to use the cheap flex hose included. I upgraded the return to 2" from the Multiport valve to the SWG then down to a coupling in the ground. Being as I was adding several 90's bumoing the size from 1 1/2" toi 2" slows the valocity and makes the addition on the few 90's not as bad to the system flow as compared to if I stuck with 1 1/2".
Next I'm going to add a simple 9v battery backup so that the SWG dosen't reset to off/standby/lost programing everytime the power goes out for .5 seconds, yes .5seconds, thats all it takes and she's off again. :roll:

So heres what I did
1. cut thin flex tube off then cut out of collar
2. sand the inside with 150 grit sandpaper so epoxy will adhere better
3. cut 1 1/2" pipe to barb adapter form Lowe's down in length
4. sand barb surface
5. wash dust off parts and dry
6. mixup epoxy, very messy stuff.
7. do your best to fill the gap with epoxy.

I used a .2oz cheap tube from Harbor Freight on one end and it wasn't enough. I ended up with a pinhole leak, now it drips constantly. use AT LEAST 1 oz. on EACH end. I tryef Marine epoxy putty around my leaking adapter and it only helped but didn't seal it.
I would love someone elses advice as to making custom plumbing adapters and using expoxy, it was a mess! I'm dissapointed one end leaks so I have a permenently soaked cement pool equip. pad.
On the upside SWG makes great Chlorine. got my salt from Sam's Club. 5.88 for 40lbs, Morton brand in the white bag, labeled for pools, same as in pool stores but cheaper! :party:
 

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Thanks for the pics. Hopefully I can find somebody that's selling the 2009 model and that's willing to ship to Guam without trying to charge an arm and a leg for shipping the thing :grrrr: I've sent a few emails, hope I get a response with good news. There was one guy on ebay looking to charge $180 on top of the price of the unit for shipping. Needless to say, he didn't get my business :lol:
 
There are several retailers in the US that sell them online, Walmart, Sam's Club, Target, Kmart, all are brick and mortar stores and Iv'e seen them on their websites.
heres Walmarts link>> http://www.walmart.com/ip/Saltwater-System/12566370#rr
I don't know where they ship but someone has to ship to Guam. As far as the year. Mine is the 2009 model. the 2010 model has half the chlorine and does copper ions in addition. Per a email to intex about the 14k gal. pool size spec not changing, they said with the copper it works in conjuction and can still handle it. My 2009 model works on my 20k gal. inground pool no problem at 6-8 hrs a day (unit runs 12 max) So I'm sure the 2010 model would work on your 12.8k gal pool. If you don't want the copper it has been discussed here on how to unplug/disable it.
 
I've been trying to get a 2009 model from ebay, but if that doesn't work, I guess I'll get a newer one from walmart or kmart. I know they ship here. We've got a kmart here, maybe I'll drive up and see if they've got one in stock. I don't think the lower chlorine output would be a problem, since my pump runtime is about 8 hours in low speed. Once I get one, I'll be sure to post up some pics of the install process.
 
It looks like I may need a little more advice on these Intex SWG. Walmart's website lists 2 different models, 54601w and 54601wl. I can't tell the difference between the 2, except the "WL" model is $30 more. Does anyone know what's the difference?
 
I think you are looking for the 56601 (2009 model or older)....ebay or craigslist is your best bet. I picked on up at the end of last season on ebay...and they actually sent me a newer model instead, so had to have it returned and the lady said, "well I have an old one sitting in the corner of the warehouse..."I'll take it thank you" ...her manager had to get on the phone with me before he authorized the return...he couldn't understand why I would want to return the more expensive model they sent me in error :hammer:

Anyways...as long as it does not have the ion/copper exhange gizmo on it, you should be good to go. Apparently the 2010 and newer models put out less FC as well, but I never confirmed that.
 
I found one and it's on the way here :goodjob: Now the fun begins trying to fabricate adaptors to plumb it in. After it gets here, I may try to remove the cell from the base and put it directly in the return line after the filter.
 
I finished my Intex SWG install today :-D It went reasonably well, but I ended up having to use a short length of flexpipe from the output of the SWG to the valve going to the returns :( There really wasn't any other way I could make it work with hard pipe without using a LOT of 90's and 45's. I'll see if I can get some pics of the install, my pumphouse is pretty tight quarters. I just went to check on it, and it's still happily cranking out the chlorine :party: Now I just need to figure out how long it needs to run each day to maintain FC at the right level. I plan on keeping my CYA at 50ppm, and targeting a 5ppm FC, it just makes me a bit nervous going with the higher CYA levels that some with SWG's maintain. Thanks to all the great info here, I was able to get this project completed in one evening and for under $200, including the SWG, plumbing supplies, and salt :cheers:
 
I had to drain more than half my pool last summer because of CYA build up due to chlorine puck use since aug. '09 i had 100-120 CYA and had a black algea problem!! You have to pour like a whole 5 gallon bucket of granual chlorine shock into a pool my size in order to get to the required 45ppm of chlorin with CYA that high! The Leslies guy just kept saying 10ppm to shock, he didn't believe me about the CYA chart here. I even printed it and brought it in to him!
So my experience be careful with CYA you don't NEED it with a Chlorine generator, you can simply crank it up more to replace the Chlorine thats lost. BUT it is nice as it helps keep the Chlorine numbers more level throughout the day, ie the sun can't bake off the majority of your chlorine in one hot afternoon. So I use just 20ppm and would go lower in the future possibly.
 
guamguy said:
it just makes me a bit nervous going with the higher CYA levels that some with SWG's maintain. :cheers:
Click to expand...

If a SWG manufacturer ask you to run higher CYA, be skeptical of their machine. Any CORRECTLY sized unit will be able to make all the Chlorine you need without needing a crutch to stand on. I think there is some undersizing/low output units being made that are the reason for this higher CYA recomendation for the manufacturer.
Don't go over 60ppm you will regret it I speak now from personal experience.
 

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