Extended Test Kit Directions

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I agree. If someone finds the test over 100ppm, immediately dilute it and try again without using any more reagent.

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I'd just be careful with how much dilution is done. An additional 1:1 dilution (i.e. half dilution so double the measured result) should be fine, but if you do a much bigger dilution then it's possible that you reduce the concentration of melamine to the point it does not bind as much to the CYA (because you are diluting away some of the "excess" melamine). Also, the test drops the pH lower so if you dilute with buffered water you lessen that effect and a higher pH may dissolve some of the melamine cyanurate. So it would be safer to dilute with distilled (unbuffered) water than with tap water. Again, for 1:1 it's probably OK, but don't get carried away with too much dilution after the CYA reagent has been added.
 
I hadn't thought about it but it makes sense and is good info for those taking over a pool where they don't know what the initial CYA is. If the reading is 100+ pour the sample back and add 1/2 tap water and try again. Saves on reagent, but something you need to know about ahead of time.
 
JasonLion said:
OTO Chlorine Test
TC - Total Chlorine

  1. Rinse the chlorine test cell with pool water.[/*:m:13kryxt4]
  2. Fill the chlorine test cell with pool water to the mark.[/*:m:13kryxt4]
  3. Add 5 drops of R-0600.[/*:m:13kryxt4]
  4. Cap the test cell and invert to mix.[/*:m:13kryxt4]
  5. Match the shade/saturation of yellow against the color chart.[/*:m:13kryxt4]
  6. Dispose of the sample safely. It is best to pour it down the drain with the water running. Do not add it back to the pool.[/*:m:13kryxt4]
  7. Rinse the chlorine test cell with tap water and store for next time.[/*:m:13kryxt4]

Notes
  • This test is the most reliable way to check for the presence of chlorine. If chlorine is present, the sample will turn some color. If it remains clear, there is no chlorine.[/*:m:13kryxt4]
  • This test measures TC, but if you watch closely it is possible to get a sense of the presence of CC. When you first add the drops of R-0600, the sample will immediately show the FC level. Then, over the next minute or so, it will drift up to the TC level. If you see the color changing, CC is present. Using the test in this way requires careful attention and a good ability to distinguish shades of yellow quickly.[/*:m:13kryxt4]
  • You can use this test to get a vague idea of extremely high TC levels. If the sample turns a particularly vivid yellow the TC level is between 5 and 15, light orange is between 10 and 20, dark orange is between 15 and 30, and brown is 30 or higher.[/*:m:13kryxt4]
  • If doing the OTO chlorine test and the pH test at the same time, read the pH color first and then chlorine.[/*:m:13kryxt4]
  • R-0600 is Orthotolidine, a potential carcinogen when ingested.[/*:m:13kryxt4]
  • The precision of the measurement varies depending on the level being read. At 0.5, or 1 the precision is around +-0.5. At 2 it is around +-1. Above 2 accurate readings become difficult and the precision is very low.[/*:m:13kryxt4]
Click to expand...


Oh Crud! I just got the Taylor K-2006 and it doesn't have R-0600!
 
Yeah, the k2006 does not have the OTO test. You do not need it, but that is another advantage of the TF100 kit.

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Can someone explain the difference between these two tests.
I only have the first one
http://www.lesliespool.com/Home/Pool-Ch ... 81330.html

is this a good enough test?
or should i look into investing and getting the other test?

JasonLion said:
DPD Chlorine Test
FC and TC - Free Chlorine and Total Chlorine

  1. Rinse the chlorine test cell with pool water.[/*:m:dux2dw31]
  2. Fill the chlorine test cell with pool water to the 9 ml mark. The top of the sample will be curved. This curve is called a meniscus. The bottom of the meniscus should be level with the mark.[/*:m:dux2dw31]
  3. Add 5 drops of R-0001.[/*:m:dux2dw31]
  4. Add 5 drops of R-0002.[/*:m:dux2dw31]
  5. Cap the test cell and invert to mix.[/*:m:dux2dw31]
  6. Match the shade/saturation of red against the color chart to find the FC level.[/*:m:dux2dw31]
  7. Add 5 drops of R-0003.[/*:m:dux2dw31]
  8. Cap the test cell and invert to mix.[/*:m:dux2dw31]
  9. Match the shade/saturation of red against the color chart to find the TC level.[/*:m:dux2dw31]
  10. CC = TC - FC[/*:m:dux2dw31]
  11. Dispose of the sample safely. It is best to pour it down the drain with the water running. Do not add it back to the pool.[/*:m:dux2dw31]
  12. Rinse the test cell with tap water and store for next time.[/*:m:dux2dw31]

Notes
  • This test normally reads from 0 to 5. You can test from 0 to 10 by using 4.5 ml of pool water and 4.5 ml of chlorine free water (typically distilled water) and multiplying the result by two. You can also test from 0 to 20 by using 1.8 ml of pool water and 7.2 ml of chlorine free water (typically distilled water) and multiplying the result by five.[/*:m:dux2dw31]
  • FC levels somewhat above the upper limit of the test will read as zero. If the sample stays clear you can't really tell if the level is very high or zero.[/*:m:dux2dw31]
  • R-0001 is DPD Reagent #1.[/*:m:dux2dw31]
  • R-0002 is DPD Reagent #2. It should be a clear colorless liquid. If it turns pink or brown, it has gone bad.[/*:m:dux2dw31]
  • R-0003 is DPD Reagent #3. It should be a clear colorless liquid. If it turns yellow, it has gone bad.[/*:m:dux2dw31]
  • The precision of the measurement varies depending on the level being read. At 0.5, or 1 the precision is around +-0.5. At 2 it is around +-1. At 3 or 5 it is around +-1.5. When used with dilution the precision numbers should be multiplied by 2 or 5 (the same number you multiply the result by).[/*:m:dux2dw31]
Click to expand...

JasonLion said:
FAS-DPD Chlorine Test
FC and CC - Free Chlorine and Combined Chlorine

  1. Rinse the sample tube with pool water.[/*:m:dux2dw31]
  2. Fill the sample tube with pool water to the 10 ml mark. The top of the sample will be curved. This curve is called a meniscus. The bottom of the meniscus should be level with the 10 ml mark.[/*:m:dux2dw31]
  3. Using the small spoon shaped end of the dipper, add one heaping dipper, or two level dippers, of R-0870 and swirl to mix. If the sample turns pink for a moment and then turns clear again, or if it turns brown, add another dipper of R-0870. If the sample remains clear the entire time, your FC level is probably zero, however it is best to verify that with an OTO chlorine test, since the FAS-DPD test is prone to the occasional false zero.[/*:m:dux2dw31]
  4. Swirling constantly and counting the number of drops as you go, add R-0871 one drop at a time. Continue adding drops until the color changes to clear. The pink color may become extremely faint before it goes away. Make sure that the sample goes completely clear.[/*:m:dux2dw31]
  5. Multiply the number of drops by 0.5 to get your FC level.[/*:m:dux2dw31]
  6. Add 5 drops of R-0003 and swirl to mix. If the sample remains clear, your CC level is zero.[/*:m:dux2dw31]
  7. If the sample turns pink again, add R-0871 one drop at a time, swirling constantly and counting the number of drops as you go. Continue adding drops until the color changes to clear. The pink color may become extremely faint before it goes away. Make sure that the sample goes completely clear.[/*:m:dux2dw31]
  8. Multiply the number of drops by 0.5 to get your CC level.[/*:m:dux2dw31]
  9. Dispose of the sample safely. It is best to pour it down the drain with the water running. Do not add it back to the pool.[/*:m:dux2dw31]
  10. Rinse the sample tube with tap water and store for next time.[/*:m:dux2dw31]

Notes
  • Hold the dropper bottles vertically and squeeze gently, so that drops come out slowly and seem to hang on the tip of the dropper bottle for a moment before falling.[/*:m:dux2dw31]
  • The exact amount of R-0870 powder used is not critical. The goal is to add more than you really need rather than using too little. Using too little R-0870 powder can throw off the results of the test. You need to use enough to bind to all of the chlorine that is present. Adding extra, within reason, has no effect. At very high FC levels it is likely that you will need to use more than the normal amount.[/*:m:dux2dw31]
  • If left sitting on the counter, the sample will turn pink again one or two minutes after the test is completed. This is normal.[/*:m:dux2dw31]
  • When measuring high FC levels, or measuring FC when the CC level is relatively high, it is important to move through the test quickly. Drops should be added about once per second, or slightly faster, swirling the entire time. You can slow down a little at the end of the test, to give you time to watch for the end point.[/*:m:dux2dw31]
  • Over time, it is common for a cloudy residue to build up on sample tubes used for FAS-DPD chlorine testing. The residue can be removed by filling the sample tube with bleach, letting it sit for several minutes, rinsing, and then wiping throughly with a paper towel.[/*:m:dux2dw31]
  • There isn't normally any reason to do this, but if you need more precision you can do this test with a 25 ml sample of pool water and multiply the number of drops by 0.2. In most situations the added precision is useless and simply wastes reagent.[/*:m:dux2dw31]
  • R-0870 is DPD powder. The indicator in the powder turns pink when bound to chlorine. R-0870 powder gets darker over time and eventually starts to clump up. If it is clumped up, you should crush it back into a slightly lumpy powder before using it.[/*:m:dux2dw31]
  • R-0871 is FAS-DPD titrating reagent. It should be a clear colorless liquid. If it turns a dark yellow color, it has gone bad.[/*:m:dux2dw31]
  • R-0003 is DPD Reagent #3. It should be a clear colorless liquid. If it turns yellow, it has gone bad.[/*:m:dux2dw31]
  • The precision of the measurement is plus or minus one drop when up to 10 drops of titrant are used, or plus or minus 10% of the final reading, when more than 10 drops of titrant are used.[/*:m:dux2dw31]
Click to expand...
 
Well your quote pretty much explains the difference. The DPD is a color match test that goes up to 5ppm. The FAS-DPD is a drop based test that goes up to 50ppm.

You need the second one. Which is why the test kits recommended in Pool School include it.

Posted from my Droid with Tapatalk ... sorry if my response is short ;)
 
Since you already have the first you could get just the FAS-DPD kit (TF50 I think) to add to it. With your Intex and swcg if you stay on top of it you could probably manage with just the first kit. It's when you have an algae outbreak that you have to have the FAS-DPD, as just the DPD won't read high enough to shock properly, or give the accuracy to do an "overnight chlorine loss test" to know when you're done shocking. You could read up on the maintenance of seasonal pools in pool school, it might be cheaper/easier to just dump the water and start over if you get an algae outbreak. That's what I did once I found this site, after restarting I didn't have any more problems the rest of the summer because of the knowledge I got here. At that time I was only using the HTH 6way, bleach and muratic acid as cost was a factor, so it can be done.
 
msgtdan said:
Since you already have the first you could get just the FAS-DPD kit (TF50 I think) to add to it. With your Intex and swcg if you stay on top of it you could probably manage with just the first kit. It's when you have an algae outbreak that you have to have the FAS-DPD, as just the DPD won't read high enough to shock properly, or give the accuracy to do an "overnight chlorine loss test" to know when you're done shocking. You could read up on the maintenance of seasonal pools in pool school, it might be cheaper/easier to just dump the water and start over if you get an algae outbreak. That's what I did once I found this site, after restarting I didn't have any more problems the rest of the summer because of the knowledge I got here. At that time I was only using the HTH 6way, bleach and muratic acid as cost was a factor, so it can be done.
Click to expand...

TF50 is a complete kit MINUS the Ph test block. It's intended for users who already have a K1000 or similar kit. It also has smaller amounts of reagents. The FAS-DPD is offered at the same site as a stand alone test: http://tftestkits.net/FAS-DPD-Chlorine- ... t-p47.html
 
I have looked around for some additonal guidance on this, but i think i will just ask...

I currently have the leslie total pool care test kit (the one that does the cya)but does not have the fas-dpd test. I will be ordering the fas-dpd test, but until then, i would like to use the standard dpd test to check for the shock levels of the pool. Since my cya is at 58, the acceptable rannge from poolcalculator.com is 5-9. All of these are pretty much outside the range of the standard dpd test. The instructions at the first set of posts mentioned a50/50 dilution of 4.5ml pool water to 4.5ml of pure water.

I am confused in that the test tube for CL seems to only hold about 7ml. I would think it should be a mix of 3.5ml of each. What is the right way to do this?

Tom
 

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You can take whatever size of pool sample you want and dilute it 50/50 with distilled/deionized water (water that is clean and has no chlorine or monochloramine or ammonia in it -- filtered water is not sufficient). Then just use this diluted sample as normal with your test kit which apparently uses 7 ml in the tube. In other words, you can do the dilution in any clean container -- you need not do the dilution in the viewtube itself.
 
Thanks so much for this post.
After a quick study in Pool School and best-guess using a Walmart 6-way test strip I've been battling my first algal bloom (bought house complete with poo in December: newbie!) - seemingly successfully!
My TF100 arrived yesterday and I had a list of questions - most of which have been answered here :)

I do have a few more questions:

1. Chemical disposal: You say to pour down drain with plenty of water - is this septic tank safe? Could they be thrown into a drainage ditch or flower bed with plenty of water (non-food plants and differing locations each time?). Advice appreciated please.

2. TA Test: Wipe tip with "damp cloth" to eliminate initial static drop variance. Damp with pool water, tap water or distilled water, or no matter?

3. Chlorine Drop Test: Stage one is to add R-0870 and it will turn pink if chlorine present or stay clear if none. Next is to add R-0871 to check FC levels, then R-0003 for CC levels. Presumably if it remains clear after Stage 1 then there is no point progressing but neither the written instructions with the test kit, nor the instructions above clarify this. Please confirm.

Many thanks.
 
Welcome to TFP!

Yes, septic tank safe (in small quantities typical of a residential pool).

Any kind of water for the TA test.

After adding R-0870 powder the sample will still be clear if FC is zero, regardless of what the CC level is. You need to add R-0003 to see if CC is above zero (turns pink) and then use R-0871 to count drops and see how high CC is.
 
Topher55 said:
I was thinking the CYA test


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You can use tap water for that - assuming that it is CYA free. You don't have to worry about the pH or Chlorine or TA or CH in that test so dilution doesn't matter unless the liquid used contains CYA.
 

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