If the sample turns cloudy when you add R-0001 it means you have a fairly high calcium level. The cloudiness should go away when you add R-0002 and the test results are still valid.
Extended Test Kit Directions
- Thread starter JasonLion
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OK guys....I have been reading these posts. I went to Leslie's today to see if they had the FAS-DPD kit in the store. They did not carry it but they had the DPD Complete Chlorine kit. They said it was the one they used at the store. The DPD Complete kit contains tests for Free, Combined, and Total Chlorine (.5 to 5ppm) total bromine ( 1 to 10ppm). pH (7.0 to 8.0) with acid and base demand, total alkalinity, calcium hardness, and cyanuric acid. My question is will this work or do I need to get the FAS-DPD if they can order it? Also I am quite color blind especially in red green and gray based colors. Is there a good alternative kit for a color blind person? He showed me a digital hand held device that gave all the tests too. What What would some of you guys recommend since you have been doing this for a while? I am still using the 3" tabs at the moment until I get all this sorted out.
The full FAS-DPD chlorine test is very important when shocking and in some other special situations where FC levels go over 5. It doesn't cost much more, well worth ordering.
With the FAS-DPD test, the only test that requires color vision is the PH test. Most people with color blindness can still do the PH test, but not everyone can. You can either get an electronic PH meter (around $60 for a good one), or the ColorQ. The ColorQ has several limitations, notably it only works for FC levels up to 10 and the CH and CYA tests have less precision than you would want, but otherwise is generally good and has a digital readout.
With the FAS-DPD test, the only test that requires color vision is the PH test. Most people with color blindness can still do the PH test, but not everyone can. You can either get an electronic PH meter (around $60 for a good one), or the ColorQ. The ColorQ has several limitations, notably it only works for FC levels up to 10 and the CH and CYA tests have less precision than you would want, but otherwise is generally good and has a digital readout.
Oh ok. If the pH is the only one then I should be able to get by with that. If I see a problem I will order the pH meter. Again, Thanks alot for the info.
Hi all. I did my first CYA test the other day. I actually ran the test 3 times with the same sample mixture.
I did all the testing indoors under the kitchen lights.
When I held the sample at waist level I could constantly see the 'shadow' of the dot as I moved it in the light. I think I tested down to about 40 before the shadow was gone.
On 5/25 the local store's computer told me the CYA level was 49
I tested again today inside and outside with the same mixture:
Outside, facing away from the sun, vial at waist level in my shadow -
-- 60 -- only the 'shadow' outline of the dot was visible
-- 50 -- shadow appeared to be gone too
Inside, only ambient light from outside the house, vial on a white sheet of paper
-- 45 -- without the movement and change of light it seems easier to read
The inside measurement appears to be a little low, but it is much easier for me to read. Does anyone else test like this?
I did all the testing indoors under the kitchen lights.
When I held the sample at waist level I could constantly see the 'shadow' of the dot as I moved it in the light. I think I tested down to about 40 before the shadow was gone.
On 5/25 the local store's computer told me the CYA level was 49
I tested again today inside and outside with the same mixture:
Outside, facing away from the sun, vial at waist level in my shadow -
-- 60 -- only the 'shadow' outline of the dot was visible
-- 50 -- shadow appeared to be gone too
Inside, only ambient light from outside the house, vial on a white sheet of paper
-- 45 -- without the movement and change of light it seems easier to read
The inside measurement appears to be a little low, but it is much easier for me to read. Does anyone else test like this?
This is pretty consistent with what I've seen. The best results are outside with one's back to the sun with your body shading the tube and looking straight down into it. This is strong indirect light and is what is recommended by Taylor. Indoors, results vary depending on the intensity of lighting, but I found that the CYA would generally read higher indoors unless the light was more directly hitting the tube from the top in which case it could read lower indoors. It sounds like you've got intense direct indoor lighting.
You can buy CYA standard solution to get to the "truth" about what is the best method for you.
You can buy CYA standard solution to get to the "truth" about what is the best method for you.
You use the acid/base demand test to calculate how much acid or soda ash you need to add to the pool to change the PH by a given amount. We use the Pool Calculator to figure out the same thing, without having to do the acid/base demand test.
JasonLion said:
So pretty much for people in the field who don't have access to the calculator. Got ya.
Acid and base demand are also useful when your PH is outside of the range of the PH test.
Were alternative PH instructions ever posted elsewhere? I just received my TF-100, but as with all other color tests I can never tell the difference between the colors when using the quick test kit. I have done all of the other tests without issue (ones that involve the droppers) so all I'm missing is Ph numbers and of course my CYA appears to be 0
The PH test is easiest to read when it is very well illuminated. I read it with a sun lit white wall behind the tube. You can also view it against a section of blue sky well away from the sun. There are some digital PH meters you can get that are quite good, but you need to calibrate them regularly.
Do they have any of the drop type things for ph or since it can be so variable it doesn't really work? If only something could be bold differences between colors instead of 5 shades of red
The pH comparator should not be 5 shades of red. That would be the DPD chlorine test comparator where you should instead have a FAS-DPD chlorine test where you count the drops. You shouldn't have any shades of red comparator in your TF-100.vk said:
The pH comparator looks like this photo in the K-1000 that is part of the TF-100 and that goes from yellow through orange to red.
Diver
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i showed the PH test to my wife and asked her to read the values back to me. since the values agreed with mine, now i'm pretty sure that what i read is what it is.
it might be worth giving it to someone else to validate your result or to see if your are consistently off and make appropriate corrections for readings. it's not 100% error proof but should give you some confidence in them
it might be worth giving it to someone else to validate your result or to see if your are consistently off and make appropriate corrections for readings. it's not 100% error proof but should give you some confidence in them
rcy... the instructions provided w/the T-100 test kit says waist height.
What do you do when you dilute the Cya test to get your final reading? Having an SWG this could be helpful in saving on reagent, but uncertain then how to read it or if a multiplier needs used... ??
What do you do when you dilute the Cya test to get your final reading? Having an SWG this could be helpful in saving on reagent, but uncertain then how to read it or if a multiplier needs used... ??
Suziqzer , If you are following the save reagent instructions in your quote, you do not dilute the resulting mixture at all, you just pour it into the view tube as usual. There is no multiplier. Higher CYA levels only require a small amount of liquid be added to the tube.
Thanks! I went back and read it again... Duh! I got it now. Wasn't thinking it all the way through when I read it the first time.
Okay, well 5 shades of red might have been using the term too loosely =]
Of course this is coming from someone who has trouble telling a dark blue shirt from a black one.
Since we still have test sticks left I did some of those as well and the range was at least close between the two.
While on the subject of the test kit, is there a reason why it has you do the Bromine as a separate step since the instructions for that and TC are exactly the same?
Of course this is coming from someone who has trouble telling a dark blue shirt from a black one.
Since we still have test sticks left I did some of those as well and the range was at least close between the two.
While on the subject of the test kit, is there a reason why it has you do the Bromine as a separate step since the instructions for that and TC are exactly the same?
Diver
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Jason,
I have a question regarding TA test. I'm going to use the actual number I have to simplicity. The sample is still green at drop N10. At 11 it's grey, then at 12 it's grey-red and at 13th drop it's bright red.At this point all the color has shifted from green to red. However at 14th drop i still notice a light change of color - it's very small change, but it's noticeable none the less. Should i read 130 or 140? Or maybe 135?
The same goes for tap water - bright red at 60 and slight change at 70. By the way, my tap water is awesome - 40 ppm Calcium, 60-70 TA, 7.4 PH and 0 CYA
My calcium test has somewhat similar progression as TA test, however the subtle change in color lasts 3-4 drops. It's mostly blue at 150, but i could still make it blue-er until 180. Not sure again if it should read 150, 180 or somewhere in between.
I have a question regarding TA test. I'm going to use the actual number I have to simplicity. The sample is still green at drop N10. At 11 it's grey, then at 12 it's grey-red and at 13th drop it's bright red.At this point all the color has shifted from green to red. However at 14th drop i still notice a light change of color - it's very small change, but it's noticeable none the less. Should i read 130 or 140? Or maybe 135?
The same goes for tap water - bright red at 60 and slight change at 70. By the way, my tap water is awesome - 40 ppm Calcium, 60-70 TA, 7.4 PH and 0 CYA
My calcium test has somewhat similar progression as TA test, however the subtle change in color lasts 3-4 drops. It's mostly blue at 150, but i could still make it blue-er until 180. Not sure again if it should read 150, 180 or somewhere in between.
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