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Thread: Chemicals are just about perfect yet no TC or FC readings

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    Chemicals are just about perfect yet no TC or FC readings

    I have an LM2-24 and have a very similar problem as this post. ((Split off. JasonLion)) I just came from the pool store and my chemicals are just about perfect yet no TC or FC readings. I'm only slightly low on alkalinity. I'm running with all lights on and have super-chlorinated a few times over the past couple of weeks. I have cleaned the cell and I will say that because it is a clear cell I can see cholorine bubbles being generated or not clearly when I turn the generator on and off. As an additional comment though, when I cleaned the cell, while I was inspecting it I noticed that one of the plates in the middle had corners worn down so they were rounded. This was on one of the main plates that has one of the input cables directly attached to it. Is there any way to really test the cell to see if it's good or bad before I splurge on a new one? I have an ohm meter but not sure what I would test for. Any other suggestions? I was going to try to get a water sample directly from a return and have it tested also. Thanks for any other tips you may have.

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    JasonLion's Avatar
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    Re: Chemicals are just about perfect yet no TC or FC readings

    Welcome to TFP!

    "chemicals are just about perfect" really doesn't tell us enough to be able to help. Your concept of perfect and ours are likely to be very different. Please post a full set of water test results.
    19K gal, vinyl, 1/2 HP WhisperFlo pump, 200 sqft cartridge filter, AutoPilot Digital SWG, Dolphin Dynamic cleaning robot
    Creator of PoolMath and Pool Calculator. Other handy links: Support this site, TF Test Kits, Pool School

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    svenpup's Avatar
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    Re: Chemicals are just about perfect yet no TC or FC readings

    +1 to Jason: full set of water test results please

    I would say that zero FC doesn't fit anyones concept of perfect

    Common causes of this are:
    • No CYA, so the FC is quickly burned off by the sun[/*:m:2y96s5eb]
    • Low level algae bloom or other organic contamination is consuming FC as fast as it is generated[/*:m:2y96s5eb]
    TFP Method Advanced Intermediate
    • 17,500 gallons - In Ground - Plaster - Hayward Swimclear 3020 Cartridge Filter - Sta-Rite Max-E-Glas Main Pump upgraded with A.O. Smith B2980 E-Plus New Centurion Two-Speed Motor - Polaris 280 Cleaner with Polaris PB4-60 Booster Pump - TightWatt2 Timer - Taylor K-2006 Test Kit - Pool Pilot Digital Nano SWCG

    Helpful Links: Pool School, BBB for Beginners, How to Shock (hint...it's a process not a product), Chlorine/CYA Chart, Jason's Pool Calculator

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    sonflower's Avatar
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    Re: Chemicals are just about perfect yet no TC or FC readings

    Quote Originally Posted by smohl
    I have an LM2-24 and have a very similar problem as this post. ((Split off. JasonLion)) I just came from the pool store and my chemicals are just about perfect yet no TC or FC readings. I'm only slightly low on alkalinity. I'm running with all lights on and have super-chlorinated a few times over the past couple of weeks. I have cleaned the cell and I will say that because it is a clear cell I can see cholorine bubbles being generated or not clearly when I turn the generator on and off. As an additional comment though, when I cleaned the cell, while I was inspecting it I noticed that one of the plates in the middle had corners worn down so they were rounded. This was on one of the main plates that has one of the input cables directly attached to it. Is there any way to really test the cell to see if it's good or bad before I splurge on a new one? I have an ohm meter but not sure what I would test for. Any other suggestions? I was going to try to get a water sample directly from a return and have it tested also. Thanks for any other tips you may have.
    Smohl as they said the pool chemical nbrs are the first thing needed.

    I can tell you have a SWG so I will say based on personal experience:
    1) if you read pool school it will tell you to not use the super-chlorinate function on the SWG (read the article for the "why" behind it)
    2) how old is your cell? ours lasted 7 yrs before we had to replace it
    3) you might can take your salt cell to a local PSS for testing - call PSS & ask if they test that brand/type of cell & if they say you do need a new salt cell shop online before purchasing. Leslie's wanted $650 for the same salt cell I pd $350 for online.
    Pool: (2003) IG Plaster 14,209 gallon (Water Surface 421 sq. ft.) ~ Spa: 18" raised kidney
    Triple spillway (Waterfall) ~ With 6' slide ~ Hayward's Goldline Controls Aqua Rite Digital Electronic Chlorine Generator (Salt System) ~ 40K Salt Cell ~
    ~ AquaLink RS -4 ~ Purex Whisper Flow 2 HP~ Aquatech 60 sq. ft. DE Filter Normal Pressure 22 # ~ MiniMax NT (Propane) Heater 400,000 BTU ~ Jandy Valve Actuator ~Letro Legend Cleaner ~ K-2006 & K-1766 Test Kits

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