I put this in the deep end rather than the review section since I thought it more appropriate here. Might get some more chemistry discussion that might not be of general interest.
As I posted on another thread, I recently bought a Metal Trap. These are advertised to remove iron and copper (mainly iron, I believe) from water before adding it to the pool. How it actually works is not included in the literature, but my best guess is that it uses pretty standard technology. The basis behind it is a type of substance called green sand. It is basically a sand material that is coated with manganese oxide. The iron containing water passes though the sand sieve and reacts with the iron dissolved in the water. The oxidized iron is then filtered. What comes out is supposed to be iron free, or pretty close. Like I said, the technology has been around a long time but mainly used in water treatment plants.
So on to my story. For most of the year, my town water is really iron free, less than 0.2 ppm. However, in the summer months starting in mid June through mid September, the iron content goes up to around 1-2 ppm. This is because the town uses a supplemental well to make up for increase summer water usage. It’s dissolved iron (reduced) so you don’t even see it in the water. But…does it sure stain the bathroom fixtures and the pool. Every year when I add top off water, I have to add sequesterant . Once the water hits the pool, over time the chlorine oxidizes a bit out and turns the water a nice light green until I add a few ounces of Jack’s or HTH. The HTH fixes it right up, but I really don’t want to add iron at all, so I bought the Metal Trap.
I got a 25,000 gallon capacity filter, this is it’s supposed to filter up to 25,000 gallons of water as long as the metal is at or lower than 3 ppm, or so. Anything more, and the gallons filtered goes down. The filter comes with a ball valve that fits on the end where the water enters. The directions say to cut the flow down into the filter if you don’t get good results. The slower the flow, the more iron it converts and filters, or so they say.
I did some tests and will post the results below. I tested the straight tap water and then tested the flow out of the filter at 3 different flow rates, full on, half, and quarter on. Full on gives me around 6 gallons per minute, half gave me ~4 gallons, and quarter about 2 gallons per minute. I tested the iron content using the Taylor iron kit. It’s a color test that uses a comparator that actually has liquid iron standards in the comparator block. It’s a bit hard to see and differentiate, but my eyes may be to blame as well. I did the test 2 times to see the variability. I rinsed the tube with deionized, distilled water in case anyone is wondering. So here is what I got.
Tap water: >1, but less than 1.5. (I called the water company and they said right now its running at around 1.3 ppm, so the Taylor kit was pretty close.
Full open filter: 0.6, 0.8
Half open filter: 0.6, 0.6
Quarter open: 0.4, 0.4
From what I’ve read, 0.3-0.4 ppm is where iron starts to become an issue in terms of staining. I mentioned yesterday on another thread I was less than impressed, but at that point, I had only tested the tap water and full flow. Not sure what to think now, but I guess 0.4 from 1.3 is ok, maybe expecting lower was too high of an expectation. I’d be interested to see how low it would go if you had iron in the range of where some wells are (>5 ppm). I havent added any water to the pool yet; when i do I'll up date as to what happened.
As I posted on another thread, I recently bought a Metal Trap. These are advertised to remove iron and copper (mainly iron, I believe) from water before adding it to the pool. How it actually works is not included in the literature, but my best guess is that it uses pretty standard technology. The basis behind it is a type of substance called green sand. It is basically a sand material that is coated with manganese oxide. The iron containing water passes though the sand sieve and reacts with the iron dissolved in the water. The oxidized iron is then filtered. What comes out is supposed to be iron free, or pretty close. Like I said, the technology has been around a long time but mainly used in water treatment plants.
So on to my story. For most of the year, my town water is really iron free, less than 0.2 ppm. However, in the summer months starting in mid June through mid September, the iron content goes up to around 1-2 ppm. This is because the town uses a supplemental well to make up for increase summer water usage. It’s dissolved iron (reduced) so you don’t even see it in the water. But…does it sure stain the bathroom fixtures and the pool. Every year when I add top off water, I have to add sequesterant . Once the water hits the pool, over time the chlorine oxidizes a bit out and turns the water a nice light green until I add a few ounces of Jack’s or HTH. The HTH fixes it right up, but I really don’t want to add iron at all, so I bought the Metal Trap.
I got a 25,000 gallon capacity filter, this is it’s supposed to filter up to 25,000 gallons of water as long as the metal is at or lower than 3 ppm, or so. Anything more, and the gallons filtered goes down. The filter comes with a ball valve that fits on the end where the water enters. The directions say to cut the flow down into the filter if you don’t get good results. The slower the flow, the more iron it converts and filters, or so they say.
I did some tests and will post the results below. I tested the straight tap water and then tested the flow out of the filter at 3 different flow rates, full on, half, and quarter on. Full on gives me around 6 gallons per minute, half gave me ~4 gallons, and quarter about 2 gallons per minute. I tested the iron content using the Taylor iron kit. It’s a color test that uses a comparator that actually has liquid iron standards in the comparator block. It’s a bit hard to see and differentiate, but my eyes may be to blame as well. I did the test 2 times to see the variability. I rinsed the tube with deionized, distilled water in case anyone is wondering. So here is what I got.
Tap water: >1, but less than 1.5. (I called the water company and they said right now its running at around 1.3 ppm, so the Taylor kit was pretty close.
Full open filter: 0.6, 0.8
Half open filter: 0.6, 0.6
Quarter open: 0.4, 0.4
From what I’ve read, 0.3-0.4 ppm is where iron starts to become an issue in terms of staining. I mentioned yesterday on another thread I was less than impressed, but at that point, I had only tested the tap water and full flow. Not sure what to think now, but I guess 0.4 from 1.3 is ok, maybe expecting lower was too high of an expectation. I’d be interested to see how low it would go if you had iron in the range of where some wells are (>5 ppm). I havent added any water to the pool yet; when i do I'll up date as to what happened.
