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Thread: 3 questions - PH, CYA and CH

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    3 questions - PH, CYA and CH

    On 7/3 I posted that my CYA was now 50 in the shade and 70 in the sunlight whereas before draining water it was 80. I decided to stay consistent and test in the shade and again I got 50. Maybe it would've been 70 in the sunlight again so say the number is 60.

    Question 1 - Would you leave the CYA there and adjust FC according to the Chlorine/CYA chart (CYA 50/FC 4-6) or get my CYA back to 80 and keep my normal day to day FC at 8 or 9 like I've been doing?

    Question 2 - My PH keeps going back up to 7.8 and I have to adjust it back down. I add what pool calculator says and it always gets down to 7.5 (I have the goal set to 7.2, but it doesn't seem to get there) then after a few days or so back to 7.8. I could be a little off because of the colors, but I'm pretty sure. Is this normal and I need to just keep adjusting or is there a problem?

    Question 3 - Is Calcium Hardness at 330 or 340 too high, and if it is what do I do?

    Just in case you need my numbers, here they are today:
    FC 4.5
    CC .5
    TC 5
    PH 7.8
    TA 130
    CH 340
    CYA 50
    Salt 4020
    Bromine 4 I used the ph/Chlorine test for this because the yellow side also tests bromine right? Is that what you all go by? Or does Bromine matter?

    I have not checked pool calculator or added any chemicals yet today. Thanks a bunch.
    Intex 20'x10'x52" 5,835 gallon above ground; vinyl; Intex 2,650-Gallon Sand Filter Pump; Intex Krystal Clear Saltwater System Model CS8110.

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    benavidescj's Avatar
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    Re: 3 questions - PH, CYA and CH

    Quote Originally Posted by imcj
    Question 1 - Would you leave the CYA there and adjust FC according to the Chlorine/CYA chart (CYA 50/FC 4-6) or get my CYA back to 80 and keep my normal day to day FC at 8 or 9 like I've been doing?
    CYA levels is a personal preference but at TFP it is recommended that you maintain 70 - 80 ppm. Since you have a SWG it would save you some money in the long run on SWG wear and power consumption if you raise it up to 70 or 80.

    Quote Originally Posted by imcj
    Question 2 - My PH keeps going back up to 7.8 and I have to adjust it back down. I add what pool calculator says and it always gets down to 7.5 (I have the goal set to 7.2, but it doesn't seem to get there) then after a few days or so back to 7.8. I could be a little off because of the colors, but I'm pretty sure. Is this normal and I need to just keep adjusting or is there a problem?
    Ph rise with a SWG and a high TA like yours is very natural. If you want to keep from adding so much acid lower your TA down to about 70.

    Quote Originally Posted by imcj
    Question 3 - Is Calcium Hardness at 330 or 340 too high, and if it is what do I do?
    A CH of 340 is not high at all. It can go even higher as long as you try and keep your pH from going above 7.8.
    Carlos
    Pool: 28,000 gallons IG; IC 40 SWG; Pentair 120 gpm cartridge filter; Marble finish; Pentair Wisperflow 1.5 hp; Polaris 360
    Spa: 350 gallon; Bromine
    How to shock your pool

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    Mod Squad woodyp's Avatar
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    Re: 3 questions - PH, CYA and CH

    50 in the shade and 70 in the sunlight????? We talking about drawing the sample from the pool in a sunny or shaded area or looking at the test results both ways? Does this make any difference? I'd love to know!
    16x32x52" Steel Cornelius Miramar AGP Vinyl liner 13,100 gal. Buried 2 ft.
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    JasonLion's Avatar
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    Re: 3 questions - PH, CYA and CH

    The CYA test is designed to be viewed in direct sunlight with the view tube shaded by your body (typically by standing with your back to the sun). When doing the test in dimmer lighting you usually get higher results.
    19K gal, vinyl, 1/2 HP WhisperFlo pump, 200 sqft cartridge filter, AutoPilot Digital SWG, Dolphin Dynamic cleaning robot
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    Re: 3 questions - PH, CYA and CH

    Thank you for your responses. I will get my CYA back up to about 80. Obviously lower pH with muriatic acid and pick up the FC with liquid chlorine. I believe I've understood that the order does not matter as long as I wait about 45 minutes between each, right?
    I'll add the stabilizer with a sock again, and while that's doing its thing I'll add the other two.

    It's been a couple of months since I added stabilizer. I just use the pool calculator, add the powder to the sock and leave the pump on, right? Do I just need to leave the pump on until it all dissolves or leave it on for a certain amount of time afterward as well?

    I've tried to lower TA, but obviously unsuccessful. Recommendations?

    Thank you again. I'd be so lost without you all.
    Intex 20'x10'x52" 5,835 gallon above ground; vinyl; Intex 2,650-Gallon Sand Filter Pump; Intex Krystal Clear Saltwater System Model CS8110.

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    benavidescj's Avatar
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    Re: 3 questions - PH, CYA and CH

    Quote Originally Posted by imcj
    I believe I've understood that the order does not matter as long as I wait about 45 minutes between each, right?
    Another expert can chime in but I am pretty sure that for what you are doing the order does not matter.

    Quote Originally Posted by imcj
    It's been a couple of months since I added stabilizer. I just use the pool calculator, add the powder to the sock and leave the pump on, right?
    That is right, some people recommend putting the sock in front of a return. You can leave the pump on if you want but it is not necessary to have the pump running continuously. You can let the pump cycle normally but obviously it will take a little longer to dissolve.

    Quote Originally Posted by imcj
    I've tried to lower TA, but obviously unsuccessful. Recommendations?
    Lowering TA is a process that takes some time. The best info is in Pool School and here is the link: Lower Total Alkalinity

    Good Luck
    Carlos
    Pool: 28,000 gallons IG; IC 40 SWG; Pentair 120 gpm cartridge filter; Marble finish; Pentair Wisperflow 1.5 hp; Polaris 360
    Spa: 350 gallon; Bromine
    How to shock your pool

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