TF-100 test kit

Jun 27, 2010
17
Piketon, OH
Just got my kit and tried to test for chlorine level. I added the r-0870 and nothing happened, no pink just clear. I used the speedstir to mix and still nothing. Tried another scoop and still clear. Any suggestions or is my chlorine level just to low to register?
 
I also tried to test for CYA and not sure I performed correctly. The black dot never disappeared. Was the solution supposed to be clear or colored? We just moved in to the house, the water is clear but looks dirty or algae on bottom of deep end. The only thing I have done so far is added salt to get up to 3200ppm.
 
Dichlor would be a better choice than trichlor - trichlor usually is found in tablet form which won't raise the CYA quick enough.

The cheapest method is to buy stabilizer seperately, and use liquid chlorine/bleach to shock the pool. I'd recommend this method for your situation.

Before you begin to shock, use Muratic Acid to lower the PH down to 7.2.

Have you tried using the Pool Calculator yet?
 
Do they sell stabilizer at walmart? or do I need to go to pool store?
I have some muratic acid, so start there right?
How long before the kids can swim?

My full results this am

fc 0
cc 0
tc 0
pH 8.2
T/A 140
CH 420
CYA 0

Thanks again. I feel like such a pool idiot!
 
It might be a few days before the kids can swim. :( Welcome to TFP. :wave:

Yes start with MA and lower to 7.2. You can find HTH or any oher brand stbilizer/conditioner (aka CYA) at walmart or your local HW store. Use the pool calculator to figure out how much you need to add.

It sounds like you will need to shock and you want to aim for 30ppm CYA (70-80 is usually recommended for swgs, but it is easier to shock at 30 and you can raise it later :goodjob: ). Get some regular 6% bleach in there now to at least 3ppm, then after you add the CYA raise it up to roughly 12-15 ppm and hold it there. With no CYA your SWG can not keep up with chlorine demand, and with FC at 0 looks likes you have already started to see an alage outbreak. Just use liquid chlorine for the next few days, turn off the swg. Once you are done shocking, you can raise your CYA to the recommended SWG level and continue using your SWG.
 

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I added 2 gallons of bleach to get FC to 3, 120 oz of muriatic acid to get pH to 7.2, and 4 pounds of stabilizer for CYA levels. I need to add another 4 pounds-should I wait until the other is dissolved to add the remaining 4 pounds? How soon should I test? tonight or in the morning?
Thanks so much!
 
brbbbfuller said:
I added 2 gallons of bleach to get FC to 3, 120 oz of muriatic acid to get pH to 7.2, and 4 pounds of stabilizer for CYA levels. I need to add another 4 pounds-should I wait until the other is dissolved to add the remaining 4 pounds? How soon should I test? tonight or in the morning?
Thanks so much!
FC and pH can be tested an hour or so after they were added, assuming the pump's on and things are circulating. Are you doing an overnight drop test? Shocking? (Kinda doubt that, 3 isn't very high) If neither applies, check it in the morning sometime.

The CYA was powder, since you refer to pounds not fluid ounces, so it will take a week or so to completely dissolve. Save your reagent and give it a week before retesting that. You can add more any time, getting rid of excess CYA is a pain, having excess CYA is a bigger pain.
 
New test this am
fc 0
cc 0
tc 0
pH 7.5
t/a 100
ch 360
cya not tested since just added last night

so just keep adding bleach to get my fc levels up? Should I go to shock level now?
Did my fc level not go up because of the live organisms in the pool or walmart brand bleach?
 
Yes, go to shock level and hold it there. Calculate shock level based on how much CYA you added. Assume the amount of CYA added is active in the water.

Organisms in the pool will consume FC quickly until they are removed, that is why the FC is not holding yet. Bleach from Walmart is fine as long as the chlorine is 6%. Since they have a high volume of shoppers you are more likely to get fresh bleach there than at some other places.

Once you get to shock level, test every couple of hours and add chlorine as needed to stay at shock level until you pass the overnight test. (you lose 1ppm or less of FC from dusk to dawn and your CC is .5 or less) Turn off the SWG while you are doing the overnight test. Once you are finished shocking, use liquid chlorine to raise the FC to regular level and then set the SWG to keep the FC stable.
 
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