Ist Time User Needs Help With TF100 Test Kit

[Scottg8580]

Hi there,

I just got my new TF100 test kit today. I ran the tests, but I'm not sure about some of the results I got from it.

I have posted some numbers below. My problem is that my PH keeps going up and chlorine keeps going down. Hopefully this test kit will help me fine tune everything.

FC=1.5
CC=0
PH=8.2
TA=120
CH=0 NOT SURE I DID THIS TEST CORRECT
CYA=20
SALT=3000 ppm

18000 gal salt water pool
0 shade, it prob gets 8-9 hours of direct sunlight per day here in Texas
spa fountain is always running, this is how the pool builder set up the pump.

I already have bleach and muriatic acid. Can someone tell me of a specific brand name or type of stabilizer I should get to raise my CYA? I am trying to avoid going to the pool store and spend a fortune, but since this is my first time, I am open to all suggestions.

Thanks in advance for your help.

 

[anonapersona]

Well the lazy way is to just use trichlor pucks in the automatic chlorinator the pool probably has set up. You can use the Pool Calculator, down at the bottom, to find how much CYA each puck adds. Like you I find myself with CYA of near 20 right now so I have added 7 pucks to the feeder and that will add about 10 CYA. I turned it up to max setting, so in a few days that ought to be in the pool. Then I'll check CYA with strips before using my CYA reagents again.

Or you can buy stabilizer, I don't have any brand name, someone will be along to help with that.

 

[Melt In The Sun]

For stabilizer, the brand name will vary depending on where you buy it. Wal-Mart has HTH, Lowes has Kem-Tek, a pool store may have others (like Bioguard). Just make sure it says "cyanuric acid" on the label.

 

[loughps]

Attaining pH Stability, especially for SWG pools
On this forum, we have figured out, through both theory and experiments and actual usage in real pools (and spas), how to make the pH nearly stable in most pools, including those using saltwater chlorine generators (SWGs). We did this in SWG pools not only by lowering the TA level, but also by targeting a higher CYA level of 80 ppm and by using 50 ppm Borates to reduce chlorine demand and let one turn-down the SWG on-time. We also figured out how 50 ppm Borates helps to prevent scaling in salt cells and possibly reduce the "white stuff" effect when using The Liquidator.

The handbook does not talk about the specific challenges of pH rise in SWG pools, nor the solutions for this described above (lower TA, higher CYA, use of Borates).

Your SWCG is the likely cause of your pH upwards drift. The long term solution is going to be lowering your TA, raising your CYA and possibly adding borates as described above. Since I don't have a SWCG, I'm not sure what your recommended TA is going to be, but if you can't find it using the search, ask and someone that really knows will be along. I'll search in the meantime too, but sometimes it's easier to just bring it up and see if one of the experts comes along and gives you the answer.

It looks like you're on your way there looking for the right stabilizer to add. I use the Wal-Mart HTH 96% cyanuric acid. It dissolves fairly easily and is about $15 for 4 lbs in NE Ohio.

 

[Scottg8580]

I have picked up more MA and stabilizer. I am ready to put chemicals in once the rain in Dallas stops. I have 1 question that I need one of the experts to answer please....

What do I work on first? lowering PH, raise chlorine, raise CYA, or put all of the chemicals in at the same time? Sounds crazy, but after reading thru Pool School, I'm not sure which of these I should start on first? Don't want to throw anything off.

Thanks

 

[Butterfly]

Hi Scott,

First off, lower your pH to 7.4ish.
As mentioned, it is the nature of the beast for pH to climb in a SWG pool. Having water features will also contribute to the pH rise. Lowering the TA (instructions in Pool School) will help, but I suggest you first get your FC and CYA in line.

The WalMart CYA has been getting a lot of positive comments about being more powdery and easier/faster dissolving.

Since you mentioned your FC keeps going down, I suggest you do an overnight FC loss test to determine if you have any organics. If you do need to shock, do not increase your CYA until you have completed the shock process. This will save you $$ on the chlorine used to shock.

Here's a link to water balance for SWGs: pool-school/water_balance_saltwater_generator This will help you balance your water.

Welcome to the forum