Is it Chemistry or Filter

[Txmat]

I have been trying to clarify my water for over a week. It is cloudy - I can only see down about 3 ft and that is hazy. The color is correct - not green - but hazy is the best way I know to describe it. Here are my numbers:

PH 7.6
FC 6.5
CC .5
TA 240
CA 380
CYA - depends on what is meat by the black dot disappearing - It is hard to distinguish at 60 but does not totally disappear until 35
Salt 370
Borates 0

I have been shocking it to a FC of 16 with hypo-cal (have a big bucket I want to use up before going to LC - unless you think using LC will clear the pool quicker.

I have not tested to see if the FC will hold overnight because just got my Test Kit today. I will check that out tonight.

How do I get the pool clear? Is it the chemical balance or just more time filtering that is needed?

Thanks for your help.

 

[Melt In The Sun]

Txmat,
Good idea with the overnight test. That's the best way to know if you're done shocking, and will let you know if you just need to be patient with the filtering.
I would stop using the cal-hypo, since your CH is already getting pretty high. LC is the way to go; it won't clear it any faster, but won't add to your CH.
You're on the right track!

 

[duraleigh]

I suggest you stop using the Cal Hypo immediately and return the FC to 16ppm using only liquid chlorine. I have a suspicion the Cal Hypo may be contributing or causing the cloudiness.

Additionally, I would lower the pH to around 7.2.....that may further help clear out any calcium precip.

The overnight FC loss test will not be relevant if CH is the cause of your problem.

All that said, it may simply need additional filtering but you need to stop using Cal Hypo anyway and doing the above may clear your pool.

(You can use the Cal Hypo later....you won't waste it)

 

[Txmat]

Thanks Dave and Melt. I was wondering if the Cal Hypo was causing the problem. I did not know that high CH would cause cloudiness. I was surprised that the CYA was not higher because I know that Cal Hypo will cause it to go up. Speaking of CYA - how do you read the disappearing black dot. Do you keep adding and counting until you cannot see even a faint dot or do you stop when it is very faint?

 

[JasonLion]

Cal-hypo does not contain any CYA. It contains calcium instead. Dichlor and trichlor contain CYA.

The black dot should disappear completely. You should not be able to tell if there ever was a black dot or not even when you stare at it for several seconds.

 

[Txmat]

Thanks. I have shocked with LC and added Muratic Acid. The PH is now 7.2 and the FC is 19.5 - overshot it a little bit. The pool is already much clearer. What is the best way to get the CA down - changing water?

 

[Richard320]

Thanks. I have shocked with LC and added Muratic Acid. The PH is now 7.2 and the FC is 19.5 - overshot it a little bit. The pool is already much clearer. What is the best way to get the CA down - changing water?

Ultimately, yes, drain & refill is the simplest way to do it.

However, CH at 400 is still easily manageable. Just keep the pH in range, primarily, and the CSI will stay low enough that you won't get scaling.