I am wanting to relocate the pump/filter for my AGP, currently, it is setting right next to the pool, kind of an eyesore and almost in the way. I would like to hard plumb the pump but really dont know where to start. By looking at my signature, you can see my setup, and it is pretty much "out of the box" and a "typical" setup. Can someone advise what I would need to start with, such as unions, valves, etc, where to put them, etc.? I will also be hard plumbing my backwash line. Thanks.
interest in hard plumbing, where to start
- Thread starter Jeff74
- Start date
You'll need some threaded adaptors, some elbows, some pipe, some glue, some valves, some unions. Sorry I can't be more specific but I have no idea what your system looks like now. Post a picture of how it looks now and where you want to move it to and we can give you some specific info on parts, etc.
Titus
0
I just finished doing hard lines for my new AGP install with the pump and filter 60 feet from the pool. If you are wanting a long distance like this, you may need to upgrade the pump and filter like I did. You can see my thread on the subject here. For pitures on what the hard line plumbing on mine ended up looking like, I took several that are in my build thread here.
I actually already went with an upgraded pump/filter from the standard for the size pool I bought. The pool supplier made a mistake and ended up upgrading me for free. I have a 1.5 HP Hayward pump. I was really only wanting to move it about 10-15 feet from where it is now, just under the deck area.
PVC plumbing is a lot like building with LEGO's , start at one end and build to the other. You may want to upsize by one size the pipe on the suction side to minimize how hard your pump has to work (If you pump uses a 1.5 inch inlet fitting then use 2 inch for the main pipe run with a reducer at the end). I also suggest screw together union fittings at the filter/pump area this way if you ever need to replace them you will not have to cut out a section of pipe to unscrew the threaded part. Depending on how far away the hardware store is you might want to buy a few extra fittings in case you mess up. Also if you don't know about PVC piping, I suggest you use both a primer (purple or clear, purple is for inspectors that require proof of primer use) and the rain & shine "Blue" PVC cement. Just remember in warm weather your working time with the blue cement is only a couple of seconds.
Ike
p.s. don't wear good clothes with working with PVC cement (a lesson I seem to always forget in emergencies).
Ike
p.s. don't wear good clothes with working with PVC cement (a lesson I seem to always forget in emergencies).
Your fittings are most likely 1 1/2" so I am assuming that size. You will use schedule 40 PVC and the proper glue and primer. Do not use DVW type fittings. At typical aboveground setup requires the following (at minimum).
SIX 1 1/2" male adapters (male threaded on one side and female slip on the other) to screw into the bottom of the skimmer, outside of the return fitting, 3 filter ports, 2 pump ports. Enough pipe and elbows to make necessary turns. You can use all 90's, or 45's where possible for less drag. Of course you will need the proper cement and primer. You will also need a method to seal the threaded fittings (teflon tape, dope, thread sealer....that is a whole 'nother discussion).
Options I would suggest: UNIONS to make winterizing and repairs easier, and VALVES to allow you to shutoff or control flow. Two cool discoveries I found recently are linked below:
Union valves: Lowes carries these, its a valve and union in one. The link is for 2" but my store carries 1 1/2" also.
Pump Union Kit: Pool stores should carry a "union kit" for your pump for about $15. The kit consists of two fittings which screw directly onto your pump and make it easy to remove for winterizing or maintenance. They also eliminate the need for a separate inline unions.
Flex PVC. This stuff is pricey, but a nice compromise for areas where the flexibility of hose is helpful, but a permanent install is desired. It glues into standard PVC fittings, taking the place of pipe.
Good luck!
http://www.lowes.com/pd_209668-33599-P2 ... oryDisplay
http://store.poolcenter.com/shared/Stor ... =143582333
SIX 1 1/2" male adapters (male threaded on one side and female slip on the other) to screw into the bottom of the skimmer, outside of the return fitting, 3 filter ports, 2 pump ports. Enough pipe and elbows to make necessary turns. You can use all 90's, or 45's where possible for less drag. Of course you will need the proper cement and primer. You will also need a method to seal the threaded fittings (teflon tape, dope, thread sealer....that is a whole 'nother discussion).
Options I would suggest: UNIONS to make winterizing and repairs easier, and VALVES to allow you to shutoff or control flow. Two cool discoveries I found recently are linked below:
Union valves: Lowes carries these, its a valve and union in one. The link is for 2" but my store carries 1 1/2" also.
Pump Union Kit: Pool stores should carry a "union kit" for your pump for about $15. The kit consists of two fittings which screw directly onto your pump and make it easy to remove for winterizing or maintenance. They also eliminate the need for a separate inline unions.
Flex PVC. This stuff is pricey, but a nice compromise for areas where the flexibility of hose is helpful, but a permanent install is desired. It glues into standard PVC fittings, taking the place of pipe.
Good luck!
http://www.lowes.com/pd_209668-33599-P2 ... oryDisplay
http://store.poolcenter.com/shared/Stor ... =143582333
On sealing threaded fittings. Some will recommend LOTSA teflon tape. Be warned that too much can cause fittings to crack if they are overtightened. Too little and you still have leaks. Whatever you do, don't back them off once they are tightened or you will have a leak. Lasko recommends no tape, no dope, only thread sealer. That just didn't reassure me. I just put together a complicated install with more than a dozen threaded fittings. For most of them I used 2-3 turns of heavy duty tape plus smoothed a little non hardening pipe compound over the tape. I tightened them by hand plus 1/2 turn. I have ONE small leak, and it is the last fitting where I ran out of tape and used dope only.
A few more general notes here:
When wrapping threaded fittings with teflon tape always wrap in a clockwise direction when viewed from the end with the male threads. (I find the thicker gas rated yellow teflon tape works good for me on larger pipes).
There are several fancy types of PVC fittings like the combination ball valve and union mentioned above that can make these projects easier, just be sure watch the price, often they will cost much more than individual parts. Another example of this is the $25 1.5 inch telescoping fitting, it can make adding a mid point patch much easier than precisely cutting a patch to fit a bit of pipe, a union and a coupler (cost of about $5-6 in 1.5 inch), but at 5 times the cost should probably be saved for those rare situation where a union and coupler just will not do.
Like most construction projects, remember measure twice and cut once, speaking of cutting you will probably want to use a hack saw, if you don't have access to a good chop saw. PVC is relatively easy to cut with a standard hack saw, just try to keep the cuts straight.
I personally have never had good luck with flex PVC hose, it seems to always be a source of leaks, cracking. etc.
Note some pumps and filters may require special adapters that look a lot like standard pipe fittings, but rely on shoulder O-rings or gaskets instead of tapered threads to make a seal. With enough teflon tape you can sometimes make these seal without the right fitting, but you can also crack the housings.
Always dry fit everything together before you start gluing, it will save a lot of oopsies like finding you have glued a male threaded fitting on without a union and the only way to screw it to your filter would be turning the filter onto the fixed pipe.
When possible leave extra space between fittings, this way if you want to install something else later (like maybe a salt water chlorinator, new pump, filter, etc.) you don't find yourself having to throw away all those pricey valves you installed with no room to splice between them.
Valves come in slip on and threaded variety, they usually cost about the same, so if you think you might want to change things up your better going with threaded, slip on to threaded adapters are under $1, where as 1.5 inch ball valves are $15+, and it is not that much extra labor to teflon tape the threads and screw on the valves..
Ike
When wrapping threaded fittings with teflon tape always wrap in a clockwise direction when viewed from the end with the male threads. (I find the thicker gas rated yellow teflon tape works good for me on larger pipes).
There are several fancy types of PVC fittings like the combination ball valve and union mentioned above that can make these projects easier, just be sure watch the price, often they will cost much more than individual parts. Another example of this is the $25 1.5 inch telescoping fitting, it can make adding a mid point patch much easier than precisely cutting a patch to fit a bit of pipe, a union and a coupler (cost of about $5-6 in 1.5 inch), but at 5 times the cost should probably be saved for those rare situation where a union and coupler just will not do.
Like most construction projects, remember measure twice and cut once, speaking of cutting you will probably want to use a hack saw, if you don't have access to a good chop saw. PVC is relatively easy to cut with a standard hack saw, just try to keep the cuts straight.
I personally have never had good luck with flex PVC hose, it seems to always be a source of leaks, cracking. etc.
Note some pumps and filters may require special adapters that look a lot like standard pipe fittings, but rely on shoulder O-rings or gaskets instead of tapered threads to make a seal. With enough teflon tape you can sometimes make these seal without the right fitting, but you can also crack the housings.
Always dry fit everything together before you start gluing, it will save a lot of oopsies like finding you have glued a male threaded fitting on without a union and the only way to screw it to your filter would be turning the filter onto the fixed pipe.
When possible leave extra space between fittings, this way if you want to install something else later (like maybe a salt water chlorinator, new pump, filter, etc.) you don't find yourself having to throw away all those pricey valves you installed with no room to splice between them.
Valves come in slip on and threaded variety, they usually cost about the same, so if you think you might want to change things up your better going with threaded, slip on to threaded adapters are under $1, where as 1.5 inch ball valves are $15+, and it is not that much extra labor to teflon tape the threads and screw on the valves..
Ike