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Thread: Switching from a lake to a pool

  1. Back To Top    #1

    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    East Bay Area, Califonia
    Posts
    13

    Switching from a lake to a pool

    Great advice I have found here. Great job on this site. I just inherited my house and have started on the pool opening of this summer. A bit late I know. It was pretty bad starting out. It was a green pond with overgrowth and even a couple of ducks in it. I have cleaned out all the green **** on the bottom including the bugs that were living down there. Some type of water beetle or something. Per being a new pool owner i went to the sorry to say it, Leslies and bought a "couple" of things to at least start killing what was left. Well long story short, I got the water from a lake to a blueish white color after doing what they said was "shocking" the pool. I have received my test kit today and stocked up on a bunch of bleach and I am ready to do this the right way. I have been floating a couple of tabs just to feed some chems to the water till I got my kit.
    On my last test from the PS they said
    FC-0
    PH-7.0
    TA-90
    Cal-280
    CYA of 65.
    TDS-850
    This is after Shocking the pool with about 3 pounds of dry clorine grans. every 12 hours 3 times.

    I ran my numbers today with my kit about 5 days later and got
    FC/CC- 0.5
    PH- 6.8
    CYA-about 100
    CAL- 370
    TA-140

    Now I have been reading that the chlorine pucks can raise my CYA and I believe that's why its so high now. I am from the bay area/Northern California. My pool gets sun all day after about 11a.m.. Should I keep my CYA to a upper point to help hold the FC?? I really am not looking to exchange 50% of my water on it. The line is about 1 1/2 inches low right now so i will be adding some when I start working on it tomorrow. Thanks in advance guys
    15300 Gal IG Plaster. 3/4 hp Hayward pump/ Hayward 48sq inch DE filter

  2. Back To Top    #2
    Mod Squad zea3's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Houston, Texas
    Posts
    9,200

    Re: Switching from a lake to a pool

    With your CYA that high you will use a lot more chlorine to clear and maintain your pool. 50ppm of CYA is usually the upper limit unless you have a salt water chlorine generator (SWG). You can check if there is a reverse osmosis pool service in your area. It would take just about everything out of your water, but it is the only other viable option to draining and refilling.
    You can manage your pool with high CYA, but you must be diligent and you will use more chlorine overall.

    You need to raise your pH and get some chlorine in your pool. No more pucks, no more granulated chlorine.

    Welcome to TFP and good luck with your new pool!
    TFP Moderator
    Helpful links: TF Test Kits,TFP Pool School, PoolMath
    Vogue 21' round AG, Pentair 1 hp 2 speed pump, 36 sq ft DE filter, Hayward S180T 150# sand filter, Houston, Texas
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  3. Back To Top    #3

    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    East Bay Area, Califonia
    Posts
    13

    Re: Switching from a lake to a pool

    Thank you for the welcome. I wish I found this site before I went shopping. I found a post stating that pucks and granulated chlorine raise CYA. I started with really little CYA and now it went out of control because of the PS telling me to dump all that granulated chlorine in, sigh.... Spent money on that now have to spend money on water replacement. Thanks again for the advice. I am off to vacuum to waste side and backwash my filter again to use up the water at least somewhat efficient. After my refill and letting the pump run for a bit I will get some numbers up.
    15300 Gal IG Plaster. 3/4 hp Hayward pump/ Hayward 48sq inch DE filter

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