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Thread: liquidators

  1. #1
    Junior Member
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    Aug 2009
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    liquidators

    I just read on another thread about chlorine liquidators..... Sounds like they make the BBB system more convenient. So my questions are:

    Do they work well?

    Are they expensive?

    What about brands? Better, Worse??

    Thanks!
    12X24 Oval
    sand filter

  2. #2
    Guest

    Re: liquidators

    I am biased, since I own/use one, and I also sell them on my site!

    Yes, they work, and I think they work very well. It is very simple, not complicated at all, easy to install, easy to add and see chlorine levels, and are cheap (I think we sell the 8 gallon one for around $159.00). I am only aware of the Liquidator by HASA (for the simple ones; you can buy peristaltic pump models for larger pools). There is an upgrade that can be made to the unit, but I am still running the original tubing and it is working fine for my pool.

    I've had a lot of different chlorine supply products on my pool, and I like this method the best so far. It's just to easy and it works!

  3. #3
    Administrator JasonLion's Avatar
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    Re: liquidators

    The Liquidator is a specific product made by Hasa. They are a little quirky, but can work well, especially with some minor modifications. They cost around $150 to $200.

    There are other brands of bleach feeders, but so far The Liquidator is by far the most popular.
    19K gal, vinyl, 1/2 HP WhisperFlo pump, 200 sqft cartridge filter, AutoPilot Digital SWG, Dolphin Dynamic cleaning robot
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  4. #4
    Mod Squad Bama Rambler's Avatar
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    Re: liquidators

    Once you make the 3/8" tubing upgrade it works very well. You should consider that as a requirement rather than an option. Figuring that in it's in the $200 range.

    I really like the way mine works. Once I have it lined out I have to make very few adjustments to the flow to maintain the desired FC level in our pool. If we have an event that lowers the FC (heavy rain, high bather load, etc) I just add bleach manually and usually leave the LQ flow alone.
    Dave J. TFP Moderator
    24' x 52" Round AGP. 1.5hp Dynamo pump. 24" Pentair Sand Dollar Filter. 45MHP2(3GPD) Stenner Peristaltic Pump
    Pool School ----- Pool Math ----- TF-Test Kit
    You can stop SLAMing your pool when you pass the OCLT (You lose 1ppm or less FC overnight, & You have .5ppm CC's or less) & your water is clear.

  5. #5
    Guest

    Re: liquidators

    Quote Originally Posted by Bama Rambler
    Once you make the 3/8" tubing upgrade it works very well. You should consider that as a requirement rather than an option. Figuring that in it's in the $200 range.

    I really like the way mine works. Once I have it lined out I have to make very few adjustments to the flow to maintain the desired FC level in our pool. If we have an event that lowers the FC (heavy rain, high bather load, etc) I just add bleach manually and usually leave the LQ flow alone.
    Just wondering if you ran yours in "stock" configuration at all? We will sometimes install these for customers, and I have been using it just as it comes. If I am doing folks a disservice, I'd rather carry the upgrade materials and do it right the first time!

    I wonder why HASA doesn't just do that from the start?

  6. #6
    Mod Squad Bama Rambler's Avatar
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    Re: liquidators

    I ran mine stock to begin with and all the flow I could get through the flow meter was about 3 cc/min and the flow was not stable. Since I upgraded I can peg the float out above 5 cc/min. The flow is a lot more stable once set too.

    I'd say the deciding factor whether to upgrade or not depends on if you can get the flow meter to 5 cc/min or not. If you can with the stock configuration then it wouldn't be as important to do the upgrade.

    One thing I don't recommend doing, that the upgrade thread suggests, is drilling the float valve shrouds. The nozzle in the float valve is what restricts the flow, not the shroud so you're not helping yourself by drilling holes in them and you're opening yourself up to possibly damaging the valves.
    Dave J. TFP Moderator
    24' x 52" Round AGP. 1.5hp Dynamo pump. 24" Pentair Sand Dollar Filter. 45MHP2(3GPD) Stenner Peristaltic Pump
    Pool School ----- Pool Math ----- TF-Test Kit
    You can stop SLAMing your pool when you pass the OCLT (You lose 1ppm or less FC overnight, & You have .5ppm CC's or less) & your water is clear.

  7. #7
    Guest

    Re: liquidators

    Thanks Rambler I've seen the threads about not drilling the floats (maybe they were your notes!) and have heeded that advice! It is nice to know that there is a solution to this, should it not keep up.

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